Well I have my camera, that's the easy part. Now I need some help. Ihave a book that came with it where the author says that when advancing the film you have a little red window to see the numbers on the film. In dark conditions though you may find it easier to see the numbers by shinning a small torch into the window, Well that didn't work did it. Look here
So with the fogging of the frames in exactly the same spot and the only two times I used the torch I would say it's the light from the torch. So obviously that tiny little torch I used has more power than I though. With that in mind I do still need something to see in the red hole. Any suggestions.
Glad I did this test now, going away next week and then a two week trip. Would have been real impressed if I came back with most of the film fogged.
What kind of camera is it? Also, why is it important to see the frame numbers in the dark?
Guy
Posted by Kent Staubus on October 31, 2006 at 8:38 AM
Would one of those little red or blue LED squeeze lights work?
Kent in SD
Posted by Rob Coomer on October 31, 2006 at 9:11 AM
The tiny squeeze keychain LEDs would be my suggestion too. They are fairly dim, but should put out enough ambient light for your purpose, without a focused beam that could shine into the camera. You could even clip it to your camera strap.
I'm presuming this is medium format... The only cameras I've ever used with a little window like that were at least 80 years old, but they used modern MF film. (I've used a few varieties, from box brownies to folding bellows cameras.) I don't know if newer MF cameras have improved on the technology, but in the old ones, you need to see the numbers to know how far to advance the film between exposures.
In expanding on the suggestions above--don't use a blue LED light if the window is red. You need one that is either white, or the same colour as the window (i.e., red), or it won't do any good.
-Paul
Posted by Roger Rouch on October 31, 2006 at 2:07 PM
I don't know why a flashlight would neccesarily result in more fogging than normal bright daylight, as long as it's not shining directly on the red window? If it is the torch, maybe just some more diffuse lighting rather than shining directly onto the window.
You're making me nostagic for an old camera to play around with. I've had a few old folders just for fun and virutally every one of them had some sort of light leak to figure out. If that isn't the case with your camera, maybe you could just count the number of full turns you need to do on the film winder for one full frame. You could go over a bit and end up lossing a frame at the end of the roll. That's a nice photo, by the way. Indeed sort of sucks that it had some fogging.
Oh it's a Fotoman 6x17. Guess it's a little old school on the winder process, but they are an extremely nice camera for the cost of them. I need to see the frame numbers as it's the only way to see how far you have wound the film on. 3,6,9,12. I have to slide the little window open and look for the numbers on the back of the film. The gift shop has the little stylus pens, Would a red led be the best to get??
Interesting!
My experience with LEDs is that they are actually quite bright. I would actually suggest one of the small MagLite torches that allow you to set the beam intensity. This will allow you to create a diffused beam that you'll be able to adjust so it's not shining directly into the film chamber.
Keith, an alternative would be to sacrifice a roll of film and count turns of rewinding knob to determine film spacing. Then use that experience instead of artificial light.
Thanks all for the replies, I have a maglite and that's what I used, obviously a little to pencil beamed.
Marko, great idea, I'm think I will get the winder engraved with a little mark, don't have to sacrifice the film as I can turn the winder either way. Will experiment with this though as this means I wont even have to use the window.
Discussion
10 repliesLook here
So with the fogging of the frames in exactly the same spot and the only two times I used the torch I would say it's the light from the torch. So obviously that tiny little torch I used has more power than I though. With that in mind I do still need something to see in the red hole. Any suggestions.
Glad I did this test now, going away next week and then a two week trip. Would have been real impressed if I came back with most of the film fogged.
Thanks
Guy
Kent in SD
In expanding on the suggestions above--don't use a blue LED light if the window is red. You need one that is either white, or the same colour as the window (i.e., red), or it won't do any good.
-Paul
You're making me nostagic for an old camera to play around with. I've had a few old folders just for fun and virutally every one of them had some sort of light leak to figure out. If that isn't the case with your camera, maybe you could just count the number of full turns you need to do on the film winder for one full frame. You could go over a bit and end up lossing a frame at the end of the roll. That's a nice photo, by the way. Indeed sort of sucks that it had some fogging.
Thanks
My experience with LEDs is that they are actually quite bright. I would actually suggest one of the small MagLite torches that allow you to set the beam intensity. This will allow you to create a diffused beam that you'll be able to adjust so it's not shining directly into the film chamber.
Guy
Marko
Marko, great idea, I'm think I will get the winder engraved with a little mark, don't have to sacrifice the film as I can turn the winder either way. Will experiment with this though as this means I wont even have to use the window.
Thanks again all