I have a few questions regarding flash photography. As I have recently posted, I will be spending 10 weeks in Costa Rica this summer and am trying to gear-up for the trip (thanks again for everyone’s advice).
Basically, I am looking for a flash that will work with Canon’s 400L f/5.6 and Tokina’s 100 f/2.8 ATX D lenses. There is one constraint, though – my budget (I’m a grad student). I have already busted my budget by purchasing (soon, anyway) the Tokina and really can’t afford more than $100 for a flash (but I would really like to go cheaper, if possible). Any suggestions?
I also have a few questions regarding flashes. Based on what I’ve read in Shaw’s “Closeups in Nature”, it seems that with TTL (or E-TTL) one can add and subtract stops from the flash through the exposure compensation dial. Am I correct? Or do I need to purchase a flash with "vari-power" (one of the specification categories on B&H) to have any control over the flash output. I am also considering the Better Beamer for the 400.
One more question – does anyone have any experience with the Delta flip flash bracket (http://www.adorama.com/GIFFB1.html)? Based on the photo, it looks like the arm is completely flexible and would allow me to position the flash however I want. I’m not sure, but I might get adventurous and try to make the bracket Shaw has in his book. Has anyone had any luck with this?
Note that I plan on taking LOTS of ziplocs and silica gel packs.
That said, you probably won't find a flash for less than $100 that will have the range and cycle time to use well with your 400mm. I checked out the cheapest new canon flash (220ex TTL) and I'd be a little worried about the long recycle time and the low guide number.
I'd check out http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/02/welcome-to-strobist.html and look in his flash on a budget page. You might be able to rig something like this up with a cheaper flash found on ebay, but it could be sketchy in the jungle (his stuff is mostly studio work).
Depending on your camera, you might be able to set flash output from the body (if this works on non-varible output flashes, I'm not sure). But most flashes have some type of compensation adjustment on their body. (But not the 220ex)
Practice with whatever flash you get. Even with the various compensations you can have trouble in a wet environment. Hvaing some background as to how to set your exposure to compensate for wet-leaves which, in some situations, can fool your in-camera, metering will save you some time and fiddling around.
As far as the bracket goes, I'd work on making one yourself, you might save some money to put towards a flash. I hand hold my flash for most macro work in the field as I'm usually carrying enough equipment that a bracket would just be too much. I also allows me to work easier in some tight situations (overhanging leaves, branches, caves, etc). Don't forget to budget for a sync cord for whatever flash you get, as leaving it on camera for macro work can really limit your abilities.
Sorry I couldn't offer you more help (and cheaper solutions). Unfortunately you've picked an expensive "hobby" and a difficult introduction (rainforest photography is demanding as far as the absence of available light in many situations). Good luck though, sounds like a great trip.
Cheers,
Alex
Posted by Terry Sohl on February 27, 2007 at 9:43 AM
I'd say your best bet is a 430EX. You maintain things like FEC and other features found on the higher priced Canon models, but it is much cheaper.
It is $235 or so at B&H, so it's still a bit above your budget. However, you'll have a lot more flexibility with it than you might with some very cheap flash. I use the 430EX and a BB with my 20d and 400 5.6L, and am very pleased with the performance and flexibility it provides.
Posted by Dan Borzynski on February 27, 2007 at 9:50 AM
I have seen the Shaw bracket in the field a couple of times and it looks good. The owners have been pretty happen with them as well.
I tried to build one few years ago, but was reminded why I stay away from power tools. If you are comfortable with projects like that, it seems to be a good way to go.
Thanks for the advice everyone! And Alex, thank you so much for the link to photonotes - it answered many, if not all of my flash questions. Also, it seems like hand-holding the flash would give you much more flexibility than a bracket - are there any downsides to this that you have come across?
Yeah, there is one glaring drawback in certain situations. Most noticably the fact that holding a large camera/macro lens combination with one hand and a flash with the other can tweak the forearms after a while.
If your camera sync speed is too low you can get some sharpness issues, especially since the Depth of Field on a marco lens is very small in most situations depending on your subject/focal plane relationship. I believe the Rebel syncs at 1/200th, with the 20D coming in at 1/250th (but I'm not sure). Add to this fact the unsteady forearms, unless you can brace yourself against something, and you can end up with some very fuzzy photos.
I get around much of this by just shooting a butt-load of pictures, if the situation allows, and replacing batteries in the flash like crazy (acutally I just use rechargables now). I've found that the LCD is just not good enough, even with magnification, at depicting photo sharpness and perfer to throw dozens of photos out to get one sharp one than risk it. It isn't the best situation, but, again, I've choosen flexibility and a lighter load over carrying a tripod and/or bracket.
The problem is you'd like to have both a bracket, tripod, and the flexibility to hand-hold, so no situation escapes you. There are so many variable situations in the rainforest that it is hard to plan a "shoot" and not end up disapointed. I tend to "shoot" on location, ie, I don't move the animals to do the macro work unless it is something very rare I need to document for work.
I know plenty of other field workers who do a capture and release for all their photographic work (then again, they're doing venomous snakes, so they prefer a very controlled environ). Again, they do this more for a need of documentation and identification (so they don't need to pickle the poor buggers), than seeing it as an artistic expression. I've no opinion on the matter, so it really boils down to you.
Discussion
5 repliesI have a few questions regarding flash photography. As I have recently posted, I will be spending 10 weeks in Costa Rica this summer and am trying to gear-up for the trip (thanks again for everyone’s advice).
Basically, I am looking for a flash that will work with Canon’s 400L f/5.6 and Tokina’s 100 f/2.8 ATX D lenses. There is one constraint, though – my budget (I’m a grad student). I have already busted my budget by purchasing (soon, anyway) the Tokina and really can’t afford more than $100 for a flash (but I would really like to go cheaper, if possible). Any suggestions?
I also have a few questions regarding flashes. Based on what I’ve read in Shaw’s “Closeups in Nature”, it seems that with TTL (or E-TTL) one can add and subtract stops from the flash through the exposure compensation dial. Am I correct? Or do I need to purchase a flash with "vari-power" (one of the specification categories on B&H) to have any control over the flash output. I am also considering the Better Beamer for the 400.
One more question – does anyone have any experience with the Delta flip flash bracket (http://www.adorama.com/GIFFB1.html)? Based on the photo, it looks like the arm is completely flexible and would allow me to position the flash however I want. I’m not sure, but I might get adventurous and try to make the bracket Shaw has in his book. Has anyone had any luck with this?
Note that I plan on taking LOTS of ziplocs and silica gel packs.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Jason
More than you'll ever want to know on the Canon Flashes http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/ and how to use them.
That said, you probably won't find a flash for less than $100 that will have the range and cycle time to use well with your 400mm. I checked out the cheapest new canon flash (220ex TTL) and I'd be a little worried about the long recycle time and the low guide number.
I'd check out http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/02/welcome-to-strobist.html and look in his flash on a budget page. You might be able to rig something like this up with a cheaper flash found on ebay, but it could be sketchy in the jungle (his stuff is mostly studio work).
Depending on your camera, you might be able to set flash output from the body (if this works on non-varible output flashes, I'm not sure). But most flashes have some type of compensation adjustment on their body. (But not the 220ex)
Practice with whatever flash you get. Even with the various compensations you can have trouble in a wet environment. Hvaing some background as to how to set your exposure to compensate for wet-leaves which, in some situations, can fool your in-camera, metering will save you some time and fiddling around.
As far as the bracket goes, I'd work on making one yourself, you might save some money to put towards a flash. I hand hold my flash for most macro work in the field as I'm usually carrying enough equipment that a bracket would just be too much. I also allows me to work easier in some tight situations (overhanging leaves, branches, caves, etc). Don't forget to budget for a sync cord for whatever flash you get, as leaving it on camera for macro work can really limit your abilities.
Sorry I couldn't offer you more help (and cheaper solutions). Unfortunately you've picked an expensive "hobby" and a difficult introduction (rainforest photography is demanding as far as the absence of available light in many situations). Good luck though, sounds like a great trip.
Cheers,
Alex
It is $235 or so at B&H, so it's still a bit above your budget. However, you'll have a lot more flexibility with it than you might with some very cheap flash. I use the 430EX and a BB with my 20d and 400 5.6L, and am very pleased with the performance and flexibility it provides.
I tried to build one few years ago, but was reminded why I stay away from power tools.
I definitely need to revisit my flash budget.
Yeah, there is one glaring drawback in certain situations. Most noticably the fact that holding a large camera/macro lens combination with one hand and a flash with the other can tweak the forearms after a while.
If your camera sync speed is too low you can get some sharpness issues, especially since the Depth of Field on a marco lens is very small in most situations depending on your subject/focal plane relationship. I believe the Rebel syncs at 1/200th, with the 20D coming in at 1/250th (but I'm not sure). Add to this fact the unsteady forearms, unless you can brace yourself against something, and you can end up with some very fuzzy photos.
I get around much of this by just shooting a butt-load of pictures, if the situation allows, and replacing batteries in the flash like crazy (acutally I just use rechargables now). I've found that the LCD is just not good enough, even with magnification, at depicting photo sharpness and perfer to throw dozens of photos out to get one sharp one than risk it. It isn't the best situation, but, again, I've choosen flexibility and a lighter load over carrying a tripod and/or bracket.
The problem is you'd like to have both a bracket, tripod, and the flexibility to hand-hold, so no situation escapes you. There are so many variable situations in the rainforest that it is hard to plan a "shoot" and not end up disapointed. I tend to "shoot" on location, ie, I don't move the animals to do the macro work unless it is something very rare I need to document for work.
I know plenty of other field workers who do a capture and release for all their photographic work (then again, they're doing venomous snakes, so they prefer a very controlled environ). Again, they do this more for a need of documentation and identification (so they don't need to pickle the poor buggers), than seeing it as an artistic expression. I've no opinion on the matter, so it really boils down to you.
Cheers,
Alex