Heavy manipulation and posterization

Sometimes I like to get a bit heavy-handed with some of my BW conversions and I wind up with the inevitable posterization. Are they any good techniques for dealing with this?
Thanks,
Paul

You probaly know this already, but I stress working in layers - keeping the bottom layer untouched. Then make a duplicate a layer each time you try something new. Since the layers remain in registration with each other ( unless you move one), you can slide the density of a layer that you think is 'too much' from only 5% or to 90% more or less of transparency. This will modify your original image just enough to enhance but not look artificial. I often end up with 20-30 layers. Most of them will have just one detail cropped out and enhanced. Or, in a sequence of shots I may import features from slightly different images to make a composite.

There is no reason however, that we can't really do a artistic rendition of our own work if it looks dramatic that way. Who is to judge? Or, keep one version very photographic & another with artistic liberties.

Pat

Paul, I second Pat's comments.

Also I just picked up a grand book--"Photoshop Artistry" by Haynes, Crumpler, and Duggan. Excellent book that was recommended by Guy Tal. I've not read it stem to stem, only scanned it over a cup of coffee and already I picked up enough information to make significant changes in the work I've been doing.

Book is not "cheep." Like all technical books the prices have certainly crept upwards over the years; however, it's well worth the investment.

However, as Pat said, who's to judge. Bottom line is we do our best with what we know at any given moment and then move on to learn more and do an even better job.

Oh, one last comment, I make my changes in "baby steps." Sometimes even the most subtle change makes a huge difference in an image.

Have fun.

Carol

At a more basic level, I've found that posterization can show up earlier if the exposure wasn't great to begin with. Then shifting levels around can start to stretch the available tones to the point the posterization shows up. There are two things I know of that can help if you're using digital (my apologies if you're already familiar with these) :

1) Expose to the right. If you're not familiar, this means exposing so that the histogram is pushed as far right as possible without blowing out any highlights. This is because digital cameras have more levels available in the highlight zone of exposure. So slightly overexposing and bringing the image back down in editing will give you the largest range of tones to work with.

2) Use RAW if possible - this will probably yield a higher bit count on your image (i.e. a 12 or 14 or 16 bit image, instead of an 8-bit JPEG). This will also give you the largest range of tones to work with, which should yield less posterization when processing.

Oh, yeah, one more thing and this is an observation; not a fact.

David's comment reminded me.

I've been working with some older images taken with a 3.4 megapixel Nikon. I notice that I cannot sharpen these images very much without getting a grainy effect; I also did some experimentation recently enlarging photos with Fractals Print Pro. I have great success with images from my D200 and only fair results with my older D100. But I suspect I'm getting a bit off target here.

Carol

Thanks for the responses folks. I am certainly a RAW and layers fan, but sometimes I push their limits in my quest for something different.
Carol - thanks for the tip. I added Photoshop Artistry to my Amazon wishlist!
Paul

Are they any good techniques for dealing with this?

Surprisingly, adding grain to the image can reduce or even eliminate some posterization.
To this day, a link to the best grain field I've ever used and how you apply it in PS can be found here.