This is a cry for help. I have been shooting nature on digital for about 6 months now...and I just do not like the results I am getting. My composition is fine, but no matter how much I "bracket" my images do not look right to me. I get an image on the computer and it looks "flat" to me - grayed out, dull - where as I know that if I had shot it on film I would have "nailed" it. I know this because I have taken to shooting the same image twice - once on chrome and once on digital.
This is making me very unhappy, especially since I can no longer get Velvia 50 anywhere. I think in part I am missing the true blacks of Velvia 50 - it's the only film I have ever used that the blacks are solid, not see-through.
Even with photoshop I can't seen to get the look I want - maybe I am just unskilled!
Your problem may be in your processing, which I am not an expert in! It would help to know whether you are shooting Jpeg or RAW, and to see some examples of what you are talking about.
Posted by Bill Chambers on April 22, 2007 at 10:23 PM
Paige, check you email. I just sent you a message asking for more details.
Three steps should be all you need to quickly put the punch back into you shots. All should be done not as adjustments but using adjustment layers.
First layer - Levels: Adjust the white and black points in your shot moving the sliders in the histogram (top bumpy graph). Holding down the Alt key while you do it, will show in white regions that will be "clipped" (i.e. totally white or black w/ no detail). Move the sliders until you see clipping then back off. This will bring your shadows closer to black, but as you make adjustments be sure you like the overall effect on the shot and don't just follow a textbook 'formula'.
Second layer - Curves: Use a curves adjustment layer to increase the contrast. There are 3 grid lines dividing the initially straight diagonal line. Click to put a point on the bottom end of the curve at the left most grid line and drag it down slightly. Then go to the upper end and click at the right most grid line and drag up slightly.
Third layer - Hue/Saturation: You can add a bit of Saturation to liven up the colors if they still look dull. But here a little bit goes a long way and too much can look garrish.
I will take all of this advice and practice! I have been really frustrated of late and I appreciate your encouragement.
Alice and Bill to answer your questions - I am shooting in the largest JPeg my camera has, as I don't even begin to know how to process RAW files. I am processing with PS 6.0 - Yes it's old, but I can't afford CS2. I always want to be able to get a great print, but these days images need to look good on the web as well. I shoot everything manually, except action where I sometimes switch to shutter priority.
I think I have a lot to learn about this digital stuff!
Don't fret, Paige. There are many here willing to help.
There are so many variables that could be causing this. The fact that you are shooting jpegs right out of the camera could be a major clue. Check your hue, saturation, and color settings that are being applied by the camera to the image. If there is a "landscape" setting, it is usually applies the most saturated, vivid colors to the jpeg.
Other than that, it could be your color management (If your images are tagged with Adobe RGB while viewing them in a browser or PS with sRGB working space), monitor calibration, or PS skills. Bill probably has emailed some great suggestions so let us know what you end up changing and what the results are.
Also, you might want to begin changing your mindset after making the jump from film to digital. At first, I wanted my results to mimic Velvia 50 also. Now, I am embracing the wider dynamic range of the digital capture and the opened-up shadows the Velvia used to block up.
I cheat. I use a product by Alien Skin called Exposure. It's a PS filter that has a bunch of presets worked out to mimic film types. There's a couple of Velvia 100's (grain on and grain off) and I'm sure a minor tweak with the filter controls would give you Velvia 50. There is a great demo on the company website. www.alienskin.com
Thanks for all the help. I have been playing with the advice I received here and things are getting better - even for the Jpegs! I am going to soot a few things in RAW and see if poor PS 6.0 can handle it! Here is a sample of things improving - I am still losing detail in the "rear petal" when I brighten, so more work is required, but I am not hopeful.
Thanks tons to everyone who took the time to offer ideas. And Bill thanks for fiddling with the other trillium and making sure there was no problem with my gear!
Paige, how are you adjusting the brightness you mentioned above? It looks like in the second image that you simply used the brightness control which brightens the entire spectrum. You might want to try levels and adjust your light and dark tones to where you want them and do most of your adjustments in an image like this in the mid tones. this image is mostly mid tones and I think you will retain more of your detail that way. Hope this helps. Keep trying. You'll ge the hang of it before you know it.
Thanks for the input. I actually did NOT use the brightness control at all in the adjustment. I did it all in levels and curves. I think I just need more work on the technique. I'll keep practicing!
Discussion
9 repliesThis is a cry for help. I have been shooting nature on digital for about 6 months now...and I just do not like the results I am getting. My composition is fine, but no matter how much I "bracket" my images do not look right to me. I get an image on the computer and it looks "flat" to me - grayed out, dull - where as I know that if I had shot it on film I would have "nailed" it. I know this because I have taken to shooting the same image twice - once on chrome and once on digital.
This is making me very unhappy, especially since I can no longer get Velvia 50 anywhere. I think in part I am missing the true blacks of Velvia 50 - it's the only film I have ever used that the blacks are solid, not see-through.
Even with photoshop I can't seen to get the look I want - maybe I am just unskilled!
Shooting with Nikon D70s and all Nikkor lenses.
Thoughts? Ideas? Help!
Ta
Paige
Three steps should be all you need to quickly put the punch back into you shots. All should be done not as adjustments but using adjustment layers.
First layer - Levels: Adjust the white and black points in your shot moving the sliders in the histogram (top bumpy graph). Holding down the Alt key while you do it, will show in white regions that will be "clipped" (i.e. totally white or black w/ no detail). Move the sliders until you see clipping then back off. This will bring your shadows closer to black, but as you make adjustments be sure you like the overall effect on the shot and don't just follow a textbook 'formula'.
Second layer - Curves: Use a curves adjustment layer to increase the contrast. There are 3 grid lines dividing the initially straight diagonal line. Click to put a point on the bottom end of the curve at the left most grid line and drag it down slightly. Then go to the upper end and click at the right most grid line and drag up slightly.
Third layer - Hue/Saturation: You can add a bit of Saturation to liven up the colors if they still look dull. But here a little bit goes a long way and too much can look garrish.
Try it out and let me know how it works.
I will take all of this advice and practice! I have been really frustrated of late and I appreciate your encouragement.
Alice and Bill to answer your questions - I am shooting in the largest JPeg my camera has, as I don't even begin to know how to process RAW files. I am processing with PS 6.0 - Yes it's old, but I can't afford CS2. I always want to be able to get a great print, but these days images need to look good on the web as well. I shoot everything manually, except action where I sometimes switch to shutter priority.
I think I have a lot to learn about this digital stuff!
There are so many variables that could be causing this. The fact that you are shooting jpegs right out of the camera could be a major clue. Check your hue, saturation, and color settings that are being applied by the camera to the image. If there is a "landscape" setting, it is usually applies the most saturated, vivid colors to the jpeg.
Other than that, it could be your color management (If your images are tagged with Adobe RGB while viewing them in a browser or PS with sRGB working space), monitor calibration, or PS skills. Bill probably has emailed some great suggestions so let us know what you end up changing and what the results are.
Also, you might want to begin changing your mindset after making the jump from film to digital. At first, I wanted my results to mimic Velvia 50 also. Now, I am embracing the wider dynamic range of the digital capture and the opened-up shadows the Velvia used to block up.
I cheat. I use a product by Alien Skin called Exposure. It's a PS filter that has a bunch of presets worked out to mimic film types. There's a couple of Velvia 100's (grain on and grain off) and I'm sure a minor tweak with the filter controls would give you Velvia 50. There is a great demo on the company website. www.alienskin.com
Thanks for all the help. I have been playing with the advice I received here and things are getting better - even for the Jpegs! I am going to soot a few things in RAW and see if poor PS 6.0 can handle it! Here is a sample of things improving - I am still losing detail in the "rear petal" when I brighten, so more work is required, but I am not hopeful.
Thanks tons to everyone who took the time to offer ideas. And Bill thanks for fiddling with the other trillium and making sure there was no problem with my gear!
Thanks for the input. I actually did NOT use the brightness control at all in the adjustment. I did it all in levels and curves. I think I just need more work on the technique. I'll keep practicing!