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Going to Colorado for the first time. Help!

Discussion

13 replies
Posted by Dimitar Zlatkov on June 12, 2007 at 12:29 AM
Hello all.
I recently decided that I want to visit Colorado this summer in mid August with my girlfriend and I was wondering if any one of you could give me some tips. Before that however, here is some info about me:

I'm an amateur photographer (in college), and I love taking pictures of landscapes. I've never been to Colorado before and have limited experience taking pictures in the wild. I own a digital Nikon slr, with an 18-55, f/3.6-5.6 (very basic) lens. I also have a 50mm f/1.8 lens, a Cokin ND 2 grad filter and a Nikon circular polarizer.

This is what I'm interested in:

* Since I'm totally new to this, I don't know how to approach it exactly and what to look for. I'm not familiar with the Colorado landscape, except that I know the Rockies are to the west (that's where I'd want to be taking pictures). So, would you open up a map and make your own route, stopping on the way every time you see anything inspiring? Would you pick camp sites; prefer national parks? Stray off the main roads? Reference a book or get a guide?

* If you've ever taken pictures, what areas would you recommend as a must-see, and what's not so hot.

* What kind of equipment do I need? I'm looking to get rid of the crappy Cokin filter system and buy something better - suggestions? On the same note, what filters would you take, what lenses (zoom/aperture/vr?) would you pack up? Which tripod brands have you had good experience with?

* Finally, just some general advice about going to Colorado in the summer.

Thanks for your time!
Dimitar
Posted by Les Barstow on June 12, 2007 at 2:17 AM
Dimitar - there's lots to cover here, and probably more than this forum can provide in small doses...

First, you can get a lot of good images with even a basic lens like the 18-55; I went for two years with only a 28-105mm lens on a film camera (equivalent to 18-70mm on digital Nikons) and have no complaints... You can get endless lens suggestions on various forums - experiment with what you have with your local scenery, and if you feel yourself drawn to wide-angles or close-ups or telephoto shots, go from there. Same with filters; I only use a polarizer and do digital grad work in PhotoShop.

Second, you might want to look at the Hot Spots link at the top of the page; there are a number of trip reports for areas around the state. You can (and many of us do) spend years travelling the state taking pictures. By all means get out and hike, but be wary of straying onto dirt roads unless you know their condition and your vehicle's limitations in advance. You can't go wrong with the state's National Parks and Monuments, but you may find an interest in ghost towns or a specific type of scenery, or... I usually go the guide book route; even the AAA books aren't completely useless in that respect, though photo guides are better if you're being serious about photography.

Finally, some general advice: (1) there's not as much air here - take it easy the first day or two you're here, and watch yourself for signs of altitude sickness; (2) there's not much water, either - be sure to carry lots of water with you, and remember to drink it; (3) do not approach the animals - most large mammals in the state are known to charge if threatened; (4) enjoy yourself while taking in the beauty of Colorado.
Posted by Dimitar Zlatkov on June 12, 2007 at 10:30 AM
Les, thanks for your response! It was very helpful.
Dimitar
Posted by Cynthia Spence on June 12, 2007 at 3:29 PM
If you get here...Welcome! It's a tall order of what to see in Colorado. So here's a list from the eastern front to the west:

Rocky Mountain National Park (camping with reservations)
Mt. Evans...can drive up a fourteener on a paved road (read up on altitude sickness, just in case)
Garden of the Gods (Colorado Springs)
Great Sand Dunes National Park (first come basis in park/camping spot on a weeday more likely)
Black Canyon of the Gunnison
Crested Butte...nice ski town (nice hostel in town)
Mesa Verde...amazing place to see for the first time. (big campground, may want a reservation)
heading north from or south to Mesa Verde...drive to Telluride...great drive. Also a scenic loop from Durango over Red Hill Pass.
Aspen...not necessarily for the town...but Maroon Bells...very famous spot.(morning shots) Also Ashcroft Ghost town is also in that area.
Colorado National Monument near Grand Junction.
Though it is an interstate...I-70 is very scenic (Vail, Glenwood Springs, Colorado River). Just don't ride your brakes.

This is almost a route back to Denver...not really circular...would take time. Go hiking! There are many beautiful places...but these are main attractions...and getting there is just as beautiful. It's a lot to see. Weekends are very busy for the the Rocky Mountains because everyone wants to get up to the mountains to get out of the heat...so don't expect to just drive into some campgrounds and find a spot on weekends. If you want to be more remote look for BLM or US Forest Service campgrounds.

www.nps.gov is a good site for the national parks for camping reservations etc.
Also, like Les says...drink water...it's dry here...this sounds like a cliche but it is true.

Cynthia Spence
www.geolightphoto.com
Posted by Mark Stahlke on June 12, 2007 at 3:45 PM
Dimitar,

You might find John Fielder's Best of Colorado useful for planning a Colorado vacation.

Cheers,
Posted by Carol Hyman on June 12, 2007 at 3:47 PM
Dimitar,

I'm going to add two more cents ;^)

Don't sweat the equipment. I lived in Summit county for quite a few years and got some amazing results with just a little Collpix 990--my first digital camera.

Do pick up a good tripod and head. Check into Bogen-Manfrotto.

Third, other places--Salida, Independence Pass, Vail Pass, Pike's Peak, just to name a few ....

Colorado has 80 state parks to stay at. Reasonable. Also check out hostels. There used to be one in Silverthorne. I'm sure there are others.

As far as the "thin" air, you're find at or under 7K. However, prior to visiting the high country, start a regime in which you increase Potassium (a banana a day does the trick) and eliminate salt. Expect some interesting dreams the first few nights at > than 7K altitude. Oh, yes, forget the steaks for the first couple of nights at altitude. Lots of water and carbs. These hints come from studies done on Mt. Everest and other places of altitude.

Be aware that there are summer thunderstorms in the mountains.

Mostly have a blast. You'll never see it all on one trip ;^)

Carol
Posted by Bob Falcone on June 12, 2007 at 4:38 PM
Volume 3 of this series of books will also help you quite a bit in planning your photography trip: http://www.phototripusa.com/

Also, depending on your fitness level and overall health, even the elevation around Colorado Springs (6300ft) could pose a problem for you. The advice given a few posts up is good to follow...spend a few days at lower elevations to adjust, and drink LOTS of water.
Posted by Jennifer Geck on June 12, 2007 at 7:12 PM
Hi Dimitar. I took my first trip to CO last September. Because I was unfamiliar with the state I chose a somewhat hectic "loop"...Denver International to Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP) (2 nights), Aspen (1 night), Crested Butte (2 nights), Manitou Springs/Pike's Peak (1 night), back to the airport for the final night.

I had never seen "real" mountains before so the trip was amazing...but RMNP was by far the most beautiful place, in my opinion. I'm actually planning to spend a full week there this fall. There are plenty of images to be made in and around the park. Lots of trails, lakes, waterfalls, and mountainous scenes - You won't get bored! However, mid-summer will likely be very busy.

Here's the thread I started back then. Note that I was going for fall foliage. My Thread

I've heard many say that Crested Butte is a great place for wild flowers, but I'm not sure what will be blooming, if anything, in mid-August. Crested Butte was pretty but there's not much around...like if you want to go to dinner or shop or anything like that. There are a few places but it's *very* limited.

The book that was suggested to me is Andy Cook's A Guide to Colorado's Best Photography Locations I bought it right away and wasn't disappointed. Lots of great COLOR images with directions as well as advice on what time to shoot in a specific area. I spent a lot of time at Barnes and Nobles trying to find a good book for my trip. Most weren't even photography/image related and the ones with images were b&w. Andy's book is a great.

Don't forget to drink lots of water and wear sunscreen! You'll have a blast.

EDIT: First and foremost you need a tripod! Also, a wider lens would probably be really helpful for the mountain scenes. A telephoto would be great if you want to photograph Big Horn Sheep and Mountain Goats...or any other wild life.

Polarizers are very helpful when shooting lakes and foliage...but be careful not to turn it "all the way on". Over using the polarizer at high elevations will cause really dark blue skies that are not that flattering.

Good luck!
Posted by Les Barstow on June 13, 2007 at 12:15 AM
Jennifer's last point is well-heeded; too much polarizer - especially in the mountains - might give you an interesting effect, but it's not "natural" by any stretch of the imagination. Adjust to full polarization, then back off a bit if you have the sky in your shot.

Flowers will be well past prime by mid-August, but there will still be pockets of flowers, especially in the higher altitude meadows. A lot depends on rainfall, though.

If I had to suggest options in mid-August, I'd suggest either (a) the Front Range - RMNP, Mt. Evans, and Garden of the Gods or (b) the SouthWest - Mesa Verde, Black Canyon, and the Million Dollar Highway (Rt. 550). Maybe I'd slip a side-trip over Independence Pass to the Maroon Bells in with either of the above. It's 8+ hours from RMNP to Mesa Verde, and you don't want too much of that on a single trip - keep your destinations grouped in an area.
Posted by Rick Dunn on June 13, 2007 at 8:14 AM
A couple of notes to add to the excellent suggestions above...

- you don't say how long you'll be here, but in deciding how many places to hit or distance to travel, you may want to limit yourself to driving no more than a couple hundred miles per day, if that. You'll find plenty of reasons to stop. It's tempting to try to cram in many locations, but I think it will be more enjoyable if you have a more casual schedule that lets you stop, look around a little and photograph.

- Mark's suggestion to pick up Fielder's book is a good one - excellent reference and planning tool.

- I'd try to plan a route that keeps off of the main highways as much as possible. Stay west of I-25 of course. Get a good atlas/gazetteer so you know if you're going to be on paved or dirt roads. If your plans having you leaving paved roads, rent a subaru or something with 4WD. There are a lot of Forest Service roads that aren't paved, but that are easily navigable in a 2WD, but the 4WD will give you some margin.

- If you plan on camping, try to preplan your locations and make reservations where possible. This is obviously high season and the more popular campgrounds will fill quickly; those that take reservations may already be near full. The Gazetteer listed above will show most major campgrounds; you can also pick up a book specifically on campgrounds in Colorado - just google it and you'll find books at amazon or REI.

- Sunscreen and water. The sun is intense here; you can get burned quickly at any elevation and at high elevations you won't even feel it coming. Don't wait until you're thirsty to drink; just keep sipping. A day or two at a lower elevation like Colorado Springs (Garden of the Gods) might be wise if you can afford the time.

- For sunrise and sunset shots, I'd bring one or two graduated filters a 2-stop and 3-stop soft grad. Hard grads can be problematic when shooting with mountains in the scene. Your Cokin isn't a bad filter; a Singh-Ray would be a step above, but maybe not necessary. Use caution with the polarizer - the skies are already deep blue, especially up high; a polarizer can make them look garrishly dark. The polarizer can help with foliage and water, but definitely back off when using it with skies, especially with a wide angle lens as the polarizer effect varies with angle to the sun.

- Definitely bring a tripod. Can't go wrong with Bogen or Manfrotto, but for a solid, economical tripod, look at the Slik line.

If I were to take my own advice and had a weeks vacation, I would stay in the southwest and visit Great Sand Dunes NP, the San Juans (via Hwy 550, Ridgway, Ouray, Telluride), Black Canyon of the Gunnison, maybe Crested Butte and the Kebler/Ohio Pass Roads. I'd fill in the major stops with dayhikes by referencing the books mentioned in this thread, or drives along CR 5, 7 and 9 just outside of Ridgway.

If I had a little more time, I'd head north up Hwy 133 to Carbondale, then to Aspen (can't pass up the Maroon Bells and Maroon Lake if you're out that way), Independence and Cottonwood Passes, then a drive from Leadville back towards Denver on Hwy 91 and I-70.

Alternatively a northern focus could include Rocky Mountain National Park and the Indian Peaks Wilderness. Hikes may be easier to find and plan than down south, but it will be much more crowded up there as well.

Good luck!
Posted by Dave Gill on June 13, 2007 at 12:02 PM
Rick just named many of my favorite places in Colorado. Add the Crystal River drainage around Marble (near Redstone, McClure Pass, and Carbondale) and you will have some spectacular scenery.

Consider purchasing a Colorado Habitat Stamp from the Colorado Department of Wildlife if you plan on doing any back country hiking. The cost is minimal ($10.25 per person) and includes insurance to cover the cost of search and rescue if you get into trouble. Have fun, but be prepared. Our montains and back country are beautiful but they can be wild and unforgiving. August is also a time when you can expect to run into thunder storms and storms above timber line are to be avoided.

Dave

DOW web page for Habitat Stamp info:
>> https://www3.wildlifelicense.com/co/start.php
Use this site to:
purchase the Colorado Wildlife Habitat Stamp (for $10.25 per individual) which includes the Colorado Search and Rescue fee, access
to state wildlife areas (SWA) or state trust lands (STL) and helps fund additional habitat for wildlife. (Product Code #61)<<


Posted by Rick Dunn on June 13, 2007 at 12:09 PM
Dave brings up a great point - prepare for the weather, which, in August, can be just about anything, including snow at higher elevations. Definitely bring gloves, hat, warm footwear and a very warm coat. It's not uncommong to have dramatic swings in temps in the course of an hour. Be aware of weather changes, especially in the afternoon. If you're going hiking, don't be fooled by 70 degree temps at the trailhead. If you're heading into higher elevations, it can cool off dramatically and quickly.

Every time I see someone going up a trail at 10,000 feet wearing Crocs or sandals with no socks, I cringe. :rolleyes:
Posted by Mel Ladewig on June 13, 2007 at 12:51 PM
Speaking of Andy Cook, I met him at Garden of the Gods a few weeks ago. In my short meeting, he seemed like a nice guy.

Laurent Martres books in the Photographing the Southwest series are very nice as well. The Colorado/New Mexico one covers the mountains as much or more than the canyon areas of the states.

You need to have a tripod and head. The Manfrotto 3021 is a sturdy basic tripod, though it is heavy. A 3-way head or a ball head is fine. A good 3-way head will cost less than most ball heads, and a cheap ball head may cause problems.

18mm will be wide enough. Sure there are some shots that require wider, but you can stitch shots together if you've got a tripod. At the same time, I wouldn't discourage you from considering the 12-24 Tokina or Nikon lenses as an addition to your kit before the vacation. GND filters would be nice to add, but you could blend digitally in photoshop.


Posted by Don Eason on June 13, 2007 at 1:46 PM
The very appropriate comments about cool/cold hiking conditions also apply to camping. Nighttime temps in the mountains can plunge below freezing, so bring warm sleeping bags!