One of the areas where I would like to grow is in my sharpening technique for preparing images for print. I don't want an extremely lengthy process or one which requires special tools. What do you guys recommend and are there any online articles which you would recommend I get my hands on? Thanks!
Posted by Les Barstow on June 18, 2007 at 11:13 AM
I use PhotoShop almost exclusively; of course, I'm not printing huge prints to hang on McDonalds' walls, either...
As a general rule, use Image Size to set the proper resolution for your desired output, zoom to Print Size, and use Smart Sharpen (or USM) to dial up an appropriate sharpness, keeping a watch for glowing edges and such. If you find you're sharpening grain, you could try NoiseNinja or other similar noise-reduction tools first (or the Despeckle or Dust and Scratch removal from PhotoShop). If the grain is only apparent on the sky or other uniform area, then select everything but the sky before doing the sharpen (or apply PS Noise reduction only on those areas where the grain is becoming too apparent..).
When I'm sharpening from 35mm slide scans, I do a much longer process... Duplicate the full color channel into a new channel and select the channel, blur by ~5px (your image may vary), do an Edge Detect, Invert (? been a while...), desaturate and adjust levels and contrast to bring out all the edges you want to sharpen, blur just a bit so you get the fuzzy pixels around the edge you want sharpened, then load the channel as a selection; you'll have a selection mask that only sharpens edges, which are the most visible signs of image sharpness... Apply USM or Smart Sharpen to the Selection - you can be much heavier-handed than normal. On the really stubborn images, I have to duplicate each of the RGB Channels separately, do the whole process on each, then merge them (lighten only) so I get all the edges and none of the noise from the scan.
The latter process should also be helpful when enlarging images beyond their best sizes as it virtually eliminates grain "enhancement".
Posted by Mel Ladewig on June 18, 2007 at 11:18 AM
Erik,
I don't have any articles, but with PSE 3 I typically do a 3 step sharpening when I get ready to print.
First resize so that you'll be at 220-240ppi at your intended print size.
Then apply USM. I typically find the following to work well for my Rebel XT coming through ACR.
150,.3,0
75,.6,0
30,1,1
Some scenes don't allow for this (like snow between branches) and you will have to be able to shift some of the steps when problems arise. I also use masking (using the selection brush in mask mode) to keep USM from being applied to sensitive areas at certain stages. I usually use a very soft edge brush for this. Also, as the print sizes require more enlargement, the first two sharpening steps might require a larger radius and the final step might require more strength. For many scenes, this layered process has produced sharp printed files for me, but there are many ways to skin this cat.
I've heard some of the other applications have much more advanced sharpening options.
Shoot me an email. I have had very good luck with Pixel Genius sometimes combined with Gen Fractals and will give you the steps I go through to use them for 4x5 and digital prints.
Rich
Posted by Brent Murphy on June 18, 2007 at 12:03 PM
I usually use the action from HERE. Works great. It basically automates a process similar to what Les does.
While we're on the subject, though.... What is the difference between Smart Sharpen and USM? I've always just used USM. Now I'm using CS2, and I see the Smart Sharpen tool, but I'm not sure what the difference is. What makes it Smart?
Posted by Les Barstow on June 18, 2007 at 12:30 PM
Brent,
First, thanks for the tip on the PS Action. As to USM vs. Smart Sharpen... Smart Sharpen does not only Gaussian Blur which is used by USM, but also Lens Blur and Motion Blur. Lens Blur can do a better job on photos without adding as much halo; Motion Blur is, well, directional motion blur. Smart also adds advanced controls for highlights and shadows.
I know you don't want special tools, but PK sharpener is well worth the price. Nothing to learn, just run it. Doesn't get much easier, for pro level print sharpening. It's cool to learn how it works, but you don't have to. It works well. I'd try a demo!
Bruce's book (http://www.amazon.com/World-Image-Sharpening-Adobe-Photoshop/dp/0321449916/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1/102-1644490-1935302?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1182187515&sr=8-1)
I hear is fantastic and I also use his methods/workflow that are embodied in the PK Sharpener.
My process is similar to Les' & Mel's. When working with scanned film, I normally select the inverse of the sky & other sensitive areas that I do not want sharpened. I don't find the need to go through the steps Les describes when working with scans of 4x5 film. With the 5D, I usually don't bother to unselect the sky when sharpening, because not much extra noise shows up there when sharpened.
Erik, I second the vote for The Light's Right Studio actions. Also, if you're just looking for print sharpening, Qimage does a great job. It also has great resizing capabilities.
Posted by Brett Deacon on June 19, 2007 at 1:03 AM
Hi Erik. Lots of good advice so far. I have two tips of my own to add. First, the "add to selection" and "subtract from selection" options, which I use frequently with the lasso tool, are incredibly useful. Just make your selection (e.g., around the edge of a mountain or tree) in the general area of your subject, enlarge the image to 50%, and selectively add or subtract from it until the border is exactly where you want it to be. Then feather it a bit to blend the sharpening. Using this method you can take your time and make a perfect selection without having to worry about getting it right the first time. My second tip concerns how much to sharpen the image. This is inevitably a matter of taste but I find my prints (Epson 9800) look very sharp, but not over the top sharp, when I sharpen so that the image on my monitor looks just a wee bit oversharpened at 50% enlargement. I hate the look of obviously oversharpened digital prints and usually erred on the opposite side until I discovered that this rule worked about right every time. Lastly, I'll add that I prefer to sharpen with a very high amount (300-400) and a small radius (1.0 or less). I almost always set the threshold at 0 because even low numbers here can sometimes create a blotchy sharpening effect. I use Focalblade for some images and one of its best features is that, unlike Photoshop, you can sharpen in amounts up to 1000 using a very small radius. This method really works well for images with extremely fine detail like drum scanned 4x5's.
Discussion
13 repliesAs a general rule, use Image Size to set the proper resolution for your desired output, zoom to Print Size, and use Smart Sharpen (or USM) to dial up an appropriate sharpness, keeping a watch for glowing edges and such. If you find you're sharpening grain, you could try NoiseNinja or other similar noise-reduction tools first (or the Despeckle or Dust and Scratch removal from PhotoShop). If the grain is only apparent on the sky or other uniform area, then select everything but the sky before doing the sharpen (or apply PS Noise reduction only on those areas where the grain is becoming too apparent..).
When I'm sharpening from 35mm slide scans, I do a much longer process... Duplicate the full color channel into a new channel and select the channel, blur by ~5px (your image may vary), do an Edge Detect, Invert (? been a while...), desaturate and adjust levels and contrast to bring out all the edges you want to sharpen, blur just a bit so you get the fuzzy pixels around the edge you want sharpened, then load the channel as a selection; you'll have a selection mask that only sharpens edges, which are the most visible signs of image sharpness... Apply USM or Smart Sharpen to the Selection - you can be much heavier-handed than normal. On the really stubborn images, I have to duplicate each of the RGB Channels separately, do the whole process on each, then merge them (lighten only) so I get all the edges and none of the noise from the scan.
The latter process should also be helpful when enlarging images beyond their best sizes as it virtually eliminates grain "enhancement".
I don't have any articles, but with PSE 3 I typically do a 3 step sharpening when I get ready to print.
First resize so that you'll be at 220-240ppi at your intended print size.
Then apply USM. I typically find the following to work well for my Rebel XT coming through ACR.
150,.3,0
75,.6,0
30,1,1
Some scenes don't allow for this (like snow between branches) and you will have to be able to shift some of the steps when problems arise. I also use masking (using the selection brush in mask mode) to keep USM from being applied to sensitive areas at certain stages. I usually use a very soft edge brush for this. Also, as the print sizes require more enlargement, the first two sharpening steps might require a larger radius and the final step might require more strength. For many scenes, this layered process has produced sharp printed files for me, but there are many ways to skin this cat.
I've heard some of the other applications have much more advanced sharpening options.
Shoot me an email. I have had very good luck with Pixel Genius sometimes combined with Gen Fractals and will give you the steps I go through to use them for 4x5 and digital prints.
Rich
While we're on the subject, though.... What is the difference between Smart Sharpen and USM? I've always just used USM. Now I'm using CS2, and I see the Smart Sharpen tool, but I'm not sure what the difference is. What makes it Smart?
First, thanks for the tip on the PS Action. As to USM vs. Smart Sharpen... Smart Sharpen does not only Gaussian Blur which is used by USM, but also Lens Blur and Motion Blur. Lens Blur can do a better job on photos without adding as much halo; Motion Blur is, well, directional motion blur. Smart also adds advanced controls for highlights and shadows.
And it is free. They have some of the best PS actions this side of Mars for photographers.
Bruce's book (http://www.amazon.com/World-Image-Sharpening-Adobe-Photoshop/dp/0321449916/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1/102-1644490-1935302?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1182187515&sr=8-1)
I hear is fantastic and I also use his methods/workflow that are embodied in the PK Sharpener.