Warm tone vs. cool tone papers? Cool tone papers are coated, and I havre read about issues with flaking oof the surface, and potential issues with longevity when the coating "goes bad." On the other hand, natural papers are uncoated, but tend be of a warmer tone. Many landscape photographers seem to be fond of uncoated, warm papers. But I produce mostly cooler tone images, with many greens and blues and magentas. So, would anyone have any input here??
Brian, interesting question and not easy to answer. Perhaps that is why it has sat here for days with no response. As you know my work is primarily landscape and flora in the landscape.
I use an uncoated paper, Moab Entrada 190 gm, for 90% of my printing with a profile I created with PrintFix Pro. I have a few images however that require a wider color gamut. For those I use Epson Premium Luster. The downside of premium luster is bronzing. Here is Epson's spec sheet on it.
Here's an image that prints well on Moab Entrada. And here is one that requires the greatest possible color gamut to register the blue.
I think you are right to look carefully before stocking up. Various vendors have sample packs.
Brian: warm papers/cool papers are generally used to describe traditional silver papers. 'Natural' and "bright" or bright white" are generally the more preferred terms for inkjet printing. Regardless, your files can be tweaked to print cooler when using a warmer/natural papers, if that's what you prefer.
FWIW, all inkjet papers are coated. Coatings don't "go bad". You are probably referring to the aging of Optical Brightening Agents (OBA's). Bright white papers will become more natural looking (warmer, less white) as the OBA's age. Very few people have tested for and observed clearly aging OBA's, so IMO it's not worth worrying about. OBA's have been used in traditional papers for decades (as well as in your laundry soap!).
It's not inexpensive, but I highly recommend Hahnemuhle Photorag 308 if you're consdering a matte/non-glossy paper. Alternatively, and less expensive, try Moab Entrada Bright White.
David's suggestion of getting some sample packs is a very good one. The difference in how a single image will appear when printed on various papers is significant; not unlike how different films will render the same scene.
For my tastes - and regardless of whether the image is warm or cool - I much prefer matte finishes to glossy or lustre, and a white to bright white rather than a warm (natural) paper. Once it goes behind glass, though, the difference may be less noticeable. Normal glass will reflect light, mitigating the look of a matte finish; non-glare or museum glass combined with a matte finish paper is a beautiful thing, imo. I use the Hahnemuhle PhotoRag that Michael suggested. I use 308 and the lighter weight 188. Since they're both a little pricey, I use the more economical Epson Matte Heavyweight for rough proofing - it prints very similarly to the Hahnemuhle using the same profile for both - then smaller sizes of the Hahnemuhle for a final proof.
Discussion
3 repliesWarm tone vs. cool tone papers? Cool tone papers are coated, and I havre read about issues with flaking oof the surface, and potential issues with longevity when the coating "goes bad." On the other hand, natural papers are uncoated, but tend be of a warmer tone. Many landscape photographers seem to be fond of uncoated, warm papers. But I produce mostly cooler tone images, with many greens and blues and magentas. So, would anyone have any input here??
I use an uncoated paper, Moab Entrada 190 gm, for 90% of my printing with a profile I created with PrintFix Pro. I have a few images however that require a wider color gamut. For those I use Epson Premium Luster. The downside of premium luster is bronzing. Here is Epson's spec sheet on it.
Here's an image that prints well on Moab Entrada. And here is one that requires the greatest possible color gamut to register the blue.
I think you are right to look carefully before stocking up. Various vendors have sample packs.
Hope this helps.
FWIW, all inkjet papers are coated. Coatings don't "go bad". You are probably referring to the aging of Optical Brightening Agents (OBA's). Bright white papers will become more natural looking (warmer, less white) as the OBA's age. Very few people have tested for and observed clearly aging OBA's, so IMO it's not worth worrying about. OBA's have been used in traditional papers for decades (as well as in your laundry soap!).
It's not inexpensive, but I highly recommend Hahnemuhle Photorag 308 if you're consdering a matte/non-glossy paper. Alternatively, and less expensive, try Moab Entrada Bright White.
I hope this helps.
For my tastes - and regardless of whether the image is warm or cool - I much prefer matte finishes to glossy or lustre, and a white to bright white rather than a warm (natural) paper. Once it goes behind glass, though, the difference may be less noticeable. Normal glass will reflect light, mitigating the look of a matte finish; non-glare or museum glass combined with a matte finish paper is a beautiful thing, imo. I use the Hahnemuhle PhotoRag that Michael suggested. I use 308 and the lighter weight 188. Since they're both a little pricey, I use the more economical Epson Matte Heavyweight for rough proofing - it prints very similarly to the Hahnemuhle using the same profile for both - then smaller sizes of the Hahnemuhle for a final proof.