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HDR help

Discussion

12 replies
Posted by Graeme Lee on August 19, 2007 at 5:35 AM
Hi,

Been having a bash (yes, a bash!) at HDR and I am getting a messgae saying " There is not enough dynamic range to construct a decent HDR image"..cheeky git!

I have an image which I have underexposed by a stop and also overexposed by a stop and done some midtone under adjustments in another and over adjustments in another, so a total of 5 images.

I'm baffled.

Any help appreciated

Graeme
Posted by Elliott Neep on August 19, 2007 at 5:57 AM
Would enjoy reading about this too. Had exact same message! :wavey:
Posted by Andy Astbury on August 19, 2007 at 6:28 AM
MMMmmmmmmmmm.........I used to get that too in CS2, changed to CS3 10 days ago and it now works no probs :wink:
Just a pity I don't have anything decent to work with :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin:
Posted by Graeme Lee on August 19, 2007 at 6:54 AM
I'm waiting for CS3 at work Andy....taken about 4 weeks so far! Apparently Adobe can't cater for the huge demand in this country :confused:

Surely not everyone are using CS3 to do HDR stuff?
Posted by Graeme Lee on August 19, 2007 at 7:22 AM
Well it seems like it is due to the fact I am using a single image and changing the exposures within CS2. The exif data still sees this as one image which makes sense. I have however tried to strip out the exif data by saving as a PNG via the Save for Web option just as a test and it still doesn't work.

I think I will have a play and take a few different images at various exposures and try it the way it was intended before I spend anymore time on this.
Posted by Chris Lloyd on August 19, 2007 at 8:11 AM
Dunno what an HDR is or where to find one but is this link any use?:

http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/high-dynamic-range.htm

Regards Chris.
Posted by Graeme Lee on August 19, 2007 at 8:37 AM
Yeah pretty good Chris. Thanks. Once I've managed to pass the images through CS2, I'll have a better look :toast:
Posted by Paul Compton on August 19, 2007 at 11:43 AM
I tried CS but gave up, I use Photomatix for all HDR images now, and it seems to give excellent results, I take 5 shots all on manual, 1 stop apart. Seems to works for me..

Gives me this sort of result.

http://www.20years.net/lulworth/slides/Lulworth%20Cove%201.jpg
Posted by Andrew Stagg on August 19, 2007 at 12:29 PM
Photoshop CS2 has a set of rules that define what it thinks are wide enough range images for HDR. If they won't go through, then it is unlikely that you will be able to force it. As far as I can see CS3 reduces the limitations a bit.

Photomatix is IMO far better a creating HDR's that PS. This seems to be mirrored by many other photographers.

My standard is to use 1.3 stops between images for as many as it takes to get in the full tonal range - Photomatix is good with three but you can go as high as you like (memory and patience allowing).

There is an excellent and very detailed workflow document about HDR on the 'other site' that is worth reading to get the best out of this aspect of post-processing.

Despite trying it in CS3, I still return to Photomatix with each picture as it seems to give much better results.

Andrew
Posted by Graeme Lee on August 19, 2007 at 2:07 PM
Thanks a lot. I actually downloaded a trial version. Haven't a clue what to do with though :wink:

This may sound REALLY thick, but when you say go through the WHOLE tonal range, where's your starting point and finishing point?
Posted by Justin on August 19, 2007 at 2:19 PM
Graeme,

I believe you'd want to go from the deepest shadow detail you wish to record to the brightest highlight where you'd still like to retain detail.
I've only had a dabble on one or two occasions so stand to be corrected.
Posted by Andrew Stagg on August 20, 2007 at 3:25 AM
Graeme,

Its a bit of a judgement case by case. For example, I took some shots in the Pyrenees this summer that were of a mountain valley, white clouds above, deep greens to black in the valley and a shaft of sunlight on a village in the centre. This required about five or six 1.3 stop differrent images to get the full range - whereas others such as a grey sky and sea only required three. Best to go overboard rather than skimp ont he number of shots.

As a rule of thumb, I try to get one end with the highlights two to three stops overexposed (and genrally blown out) and the same on the dark end. This ensures that there is both complete black and white in there. The reason I use 1.3 stop incredements is that Photomatix seems to give best results with this setting.

Hope this helps

Andrew
Posted by Graeme Lee on August 20, 2007 at 4:56 AM
Thanks Justin and Andrew