Posted by Andy Richards on September 9, 2007 at 2:26 PM
I did a search and did not find anything about this subject. It may be my search technique wasn't proper. If its been heavily covered, my apologies.
I have lately given a lot of thought to purchasing a light, solo canoe or kayak to use as a photography platform. My own criteria is: light enough for me to handle alone (e.g. put on top of my car), relatively stable (especially initial stability), room to move around and store/set up gear, and cost. I have personally come to the conclusion that a canoe suits the purpose better than a kayak. But I haven't seen a lot of discussion about it. I know there are a couple of guys out there who photograph from a kayak.
I have also been thinking about the best way to carry, store and handle gear.
Any thoughts or experiences anybody wants to share?
Posted by Bill Chambers on September 9, 2007 at 5:42 PM
I shoot from both, and each has it's place. On calm rivers (the only kind we have here in Florida), swamps, etc. a canoe is excellent. More comfortable and roomier than a kayak, it's quite easy to have equipment laid out for quick access, etc. Initial stability can vary greatly depending on model and manufacturer, so it's best to test drive one. Most dealers will allow that.
For usage on the bay, sound, gulf, etc. I use my sea kayak exclusively since it is much more stable in wind and waves, and offers more protection for the equipment. Salt water can mean instant death to cameras so I'm more careful in how I pack my equipment.
Both venues certainly restrict movement somewhat and obviously make it more difficult to attain a stable platform. I use a monopod in the canoe usually as a tripod restricts movement almost entirely. Even in a stable canoe you can't get up and move around, so a tripod only allows shooting in one direction for all practical purposes. A monopod is more useful. I just brace my elbows on the cockpit coaming in the kayak and do the best I can. I always carry my tripod in each however for those shots where you can get out and set up properly.
In my canoe, I have a waterproof bag handy in case of rain but don't put my equipment in it usually. I've canoed for 30+ years and never capsized yet (except on purpose, ie, training), so protection from rain is my only concern there. If I'm shooting from the kayak, I will stick my camera in a open "dry bag" between shots just to prevent spray from wetting it, and I usually have another dry bag with an extra lens or two in it. The remainder of my equipment is in a closed dry bag in the sealed rear bulkhead. If I'm just using the kayak for transportation I will have all my equipment in dry bags and in the sealed rear bulkhead, and only pull it out upon reaching my destination. Generally I will only shoot from the kayak on calm days where I don't have to wear my spray skirt. If it's rough enough for a spray skirt, the equipment goes into the bulkhead. I will also use the kayaks in rivers sometimes if I'm paddling upstream - too darn hard paddling upstream in a canoe many times.
Hope this helps.
Posted by Kent Staubus on September 9, 2007 at 7:14 PM
I've used both but have come to the conclusion that a kayak is vastly superior for three reasons:
1) Easier to paddle. The double blade of the kayak gives far more power, and it's easier to keep the thing going straight. On lakes you can even add a little rudder, called a skeg. That keeps the boat going straight. All in all, a kayak will be far and away easier to propel than a kayak, especially if you are alone.
2) Better handling. A kayak is instantly responsive to the double blade paddle. You can turn on a dime and quickly reverse. Kayaks tend to be shorter than canoes and are easier to thread between the trees of flooded timber. They also have a lower center of gravity, making them inherently more stable. I also like the perspective of sitting at water level rather than up in the seat of a canoe. A kayak is also easier to camoflauge and hide in if photo'ing birds etc.
3) Safety. Not only is a kayak more stable, they also are safer when the waves kick up. A canoe is all open and a big wave taken sideways can fill it, and down she goes. A kayak is built so most of the top is covered and it sheds the water. There is also floatation foam in the ends. Mine is advertised to be able to keep floating even if it is totally filled with water! You can stow camera gear in waterproof bulkheads, although I still use a dry bag too.
Kayaks tend to be lighter and maybe a little less money than canoes. They are MUCH easier for one person to handle both in the water and out. The one downside to a kayak is they sit so low in the water they are nearly invisible. You need to be very careful if sharing water with power boats or jet skiis.
I've been using my fiberglass duck boat for about five years now. It's a modified kayak. It's 10 ft. long, weighs 65 pounds, about 34 inches at widest point (beam), and is very, very stable. I trust it even out on large glacial lakes during winter blizzards for late season duck hunts. One thing I'll mention is you do tend to get a little wetter in a kayak than a canoe, depending on conditions and how aggressive you paddle. When the water gets cold you really need to be wearing neoprene chest waders or wetsuit, but that's true whether you have a kayak or canoe. You don't want to be dumped into Lake Michigan even in the summer without having a neoprene suit on. Smaller lakes you don't really need one when the water is warm-ish.
The duckboat is the perfect compromise since it's designed to be a stable shooting platform. They are already camo colored and you can easilty rig up a blind to photo from using PVC pipe and duck hunting camo netting. The only thing I'd consider a canoe for is if you want to take a family out and need seating for four people. Even then, my family always rents a pair of tandem kayaks. They are much easier to paddle and more stable. Here's a link to a few examples: http://tinyurl.com/2socby
Old Town/Otter is a long established builder and I would bet you could find these in a local hunting supply. Better hurry though, it's on the verge of duck season.
I keep my camera gear in a dry bag and will likely get a Pelican case soon. The Nikon VR lenses are perfect for shooting from a boat, as is fast glass. Unless you beach it, a boat is constantly moving and shifting around. Forget about a tripod. I bought the Nikon 80-400mm VR lens specifically with the boat in mind and it has worked well. A little boat opens up a LOT of really great places, such as islands. I like to use either an ultrawide lens (10-20mm) so I can get the bow of the boat in the scene, or a telephoto for wildlife. Keep lens choice and gear as simple as possible. I have never had any photo gear damaged in my boat despite being out in some nasty conditions. I am careful and keep the gear stowed when not actually in use though. Despite being on big lakes in nasty winter storms, I have never flipped the boat. These duck boat style kayaks are very stable. I did once have a big wave fill it with water though. I bailed it out and kept going. One thing I'll mention is to be aware of safety. Don't go out during thunderstorms. If you hear it or see any lightning, get off the water fast! Know what your abilities and limits are in rough water. You should have no problem with waves under two feet, but when they start hitting three feet you need to know what you are doing. Remember that on big lakes you will not be able to paddle against a really strong wind out in the open, so take that into account (hug the shore.) Get a duck hunting style life vest and always wear it. They are thin and comfortable. I've had some close calls in really nasty December storms (when duck hunting is best!) but have never been harmed or lost any gear. I don't want to make it sound more dangerous than it really is, but until you learn what your & boat's limits are play it safe. Anyway, I'd take a close look at the smaller Predator K110 kayak. It will do all you want and more.
Kent in SD
Posted by Andy Richards on September 9, 2007 at 7:20 PM
Bill: Thanks for the reply. I have been canoing since I was a kid and have a fair amount of experience canoing lakes and rivers with moderate current -- no whitewater experience and no serious waves. I have a family recreational canoe (Old Town Camper) which has given us lots of use for general recreation (fishing, camping, day trips, etc.). It has a fairly flat bottom which gives it great initial stability and we don't get into situations with it which require higher secondary stability. I never did much photography out of, because the situations never seemed conducive. Now, my youngest is off at college and I find myself more and more often thinking how nice it would be to have a solo canoe to throw on the cartop and go shoot. My wife really doesn't have an interest in photography and as you probably know, unless you are a photographer, its not usually much fun to hang with one while they are on a shoot.
I am generally familiar with canoes and their design and construction and know the solo canoe is generally going to compromise the high initial stability of the Camper (which is essentially impossible to solo). In fact my research tells me it is a series of compromises.
I do a lot of shooting with a 18-200 VR lens and am hoping the VR feature will help. I appreciate the comment about the Monopod. I have a gimbal type head on one of my tripods and was going to try that. But I'll definitely take the monopod along and test it, too, now.
Is your canoe a solo canoe? What model is it? One of the models I am seriously considering has "tucked" gunwhales in the center section and I am told can be paddled like a kayak with a double bladed paddle. I will consider purchasing one and having both paddles in the boat with me.
I have a couple of drybags, which I have used for my camera and lens the one or two times it has accompanied me in the canoe. I also wondered about one of the larger dry boxes made by Pelican, but they look like they might be awkward and they are darned expensive.
Thanks again for your comments.
Posted by Larry Reitz on September 9, 2007 at 7:25 PM
Hi Andy,
Like Bill, I have been canoeing for a long time and will echo what he says. Recently I purchased a small kayak, 9 1/2 ft Swifty with a pretty wide beam, primarily for the purpose of photography. So far I have only had it in the salt water marshes where the Connecticut river flows into Long Island Sound. It has no bulkheads so I use a well padded dry bag to hold the camera between my feet forward of the cockpit whenever there is any chance of getting it wet. There isn't room for much more than one bag in the forward part of the kayak. A tripod would fit behind the seat, but, is useless unless you want to beach the craft somewhere to take a picture.
I think one of the advantages to the kayak is a closer proximity to the water surface which is less threatening to the wildlife. I have been able to get close enough to some birds to fill the frame with or at least have croppable images that I blow up to 11x16. I'm new to this site and and still filling up my portfolio, however, there is an image of an osprey and another of an Eastern Willet that was taken from the kayak in the portfolio. More will be added soon.
Since I confine this activity to calm water I have kept the camera around my neck while paddling, but, readily acknowledge that I need to think of a bit more protection for it. The biggest problem seems to be my poor paddling technique which allows water to run down the paddle and into the cockpit. Eventually it should all come together. In the meantime I am having a blast and highly recommend you give it a try.
Posted by Andy Richards on September 9, 2007 at 7:33 PM
Kent: I appreciate your comments -- as always. I won't be on Lake Michigan in Solo canoe (not during this incarnation anyway <G>). My use will be limited to very small lakes and ponds in the National and State Forests, and flat water rivers and streams. I would definitely opt for a kayak on a big lake. But I wouldn't be comfortable with my photo gear in that situation anyway.
I have looked at the Old Town Kayaks which are in plentiful supply here (Gander Mountain, Dick's Sporting Goods, among other places). The appear to be comparably priced with the canoes I have looked at (the two that top my list are a Mohawk Solo and an Old Town Pack -- they fit the weight and budget -- both are royalex, which is virtually indestructable -- and I believe slightly lighter than the polywhatever the kayaks are built with). The Pack weighs 33 lbs. The Mohawk, which is a foot longer, weighs 36 lbs. I can comfortably lift those to the top of my car.
I think the Kayak would be a lot of fun and I see the point about being lower on the water and maneuverability from a photography perspective.
I also have been made aware by kayakers that they do tend to be a slightly "wetter ride" than a canoe in the same conditions. I have done my homework on the capabilities and handling of the different boats.
I guess what I was looking for here was who is shooting from these platforms and what kind of experience they have had.
Thanks for the link to the duck boats. They do look interesting. The look a little heavy for my needs though (Much to my own surprise, I am getting older every year <G>)
Posted by Bill Chambers on September 9, 2007 at 7:51 PM
Hi Andy, I have 2 canoes, one a 16' that is extremely stable and manueverable (much more so than my kayak), and one 17 1/2 that is not as stable, but is fast and tracks very well. Both are tandem models, but I removed a thwart from the 16' and added another seat to use when going solo. I'm not sure I agree with Kent's statement concerning kayaks being easier to paddle and even on safety. Kayak's, like canoes, can and do vary greatly in stabilty and manueverability. My sea kayak is much less stable than my canoe in calm conditions, but in rough seas it's very comforting to know it can be heeled over crisply and has high secondary stability. On a twisty creek, my 16' canoe can out-manuever my sea kayak hands down. If it were a white water kayak, that would be totally different of course, but so would the stability factor. Kent is definitely correct in saying kayaks are faster, but again that can differ vastly depending on style and shape. My sea kayak is 16' 9" and is MUCH faster than either of my canoes, but my wife's kayak is much slower in comparison to my kayak. She has a wider, shorter, more stable kayak because she only goes out in calm weather.
My canoes are fiberglass (16') and Kevlar (17 1/2'). Both kayaks are roto-molded polyethylene. Fiberglass is great here in Florida, but would be unadvisable in many other areas where you have rapids, rocks, etc. I chose polyethelene for the kayaks over fiberglass or composite due to it being half the price.
There are so many differing conditions for which canoes and kayaks are used, it's very hard for a person in one part of the country to advise a person in another part what might be best. If you have a good professional canoe/kayak store where you live, consulting them may be your best bet.
Posted by Jim Sabiston on September 9, 2007 at 9:07 PM
Andy,
I've been kayaking and canoeing for quite a few years and recently started taking pictures from both. I can add a couple of observations to the good ones already made. My primary boats are a 17.5' Queen Charlotte XL Expedition Seakayak (made from a Pygmy Boats kit about 8 years ago) and Hornbeck's 12.5' Lost Pond Canoe purchased about 3-4 years ago. both were selected with multiday camping trips in mind and photography is something new to them.
The Kayak is faster and better for open water such as the Great South Bay, where I live on the South Shore of Long Island. The canoe is used on quiet local rivers and upstate mountain lakes. I think the latter conditions are similar to yours and the canoe should be something you look at. Go to this link: http://www.hornbeckboats.com/
They offer several models (kayaks, too) and you can choose the size best suited to you. The real beauty of these canoes is you use them like a kayak - you sit on the bottom and use a double bladed paddle. This makes for a very stable, very dry, maneuverable boat. They are also extremely light - check those weights! By 12.5 footer, with extra layups and built-in floatation, weighs 24 pounds! Most are notable even lighter.
The only down side is they are not inexpensive. I have taken some good shots from the canoe and prefer it for 'in boat' shots over the kayak.
I'm still working on the camera protection thing myself. My present method is a series of drybags laid on the floor of the canoe when I'm actively shooting. When not shooting, I clip the rolltop of the drybags around the seat thwart so the camers and lenses are physically attached to the boat in the unlikely event of a capsize, the gear stays attached to the boat instead of makng like very expensive rocks and making for the bottom! This also keeps the gear out of the way but readily accesible if a photo opportunity presents itself.
good luck with your research and purchase.
Posted by Kent Staubus on September 9, 2007 at 11:48 PM
My thinking is that when I haul about $3,000 worth of photo gear out on the glacial lakes, a $200 Pelican case really isn't all THAT expensive, is it?
Larry--
Your paddle should have some rubber rings on it, one on each end. These are called "drip rings." Move them up the pole about a foot away from the paddle. The idea is they stop the water from running down the pole of the paddle and into the boat.
I used a canoe for many years, but once I got a kayak I never looked back. The kevlar canoes are great and if I was really into canoes that's what I'd get. Some of the rental places in tourist areas buy them and then sell them off at the end of the season. Odds of finding a good kayak/duckboat used are about nil though. They aren't rented out and owners hang on to them. One thing I didn't think about was one of the reasons I prefer the kayak is it sits lower and is thus presents a lower profile to the wind. That's a major factor where I live on the Northern Plains. The little boat I have floats unloaded in about 3 inches of water, and with me in it about 5 inches. I wear cheap rubber barn boots ($15 pair) from Walmart that come up just below my knees to make it easy to get in and out of the boat. The other thing I really like about my little boat is I can pile it high with duck decoys and then push it out on a frozen lake. I can break through about half an inch to one inch of ice. I jam the paddle through the ice and pull myself & boat to open water, cutting a channel as I go.
The kayak/duckboat is best suited to wildlife photos, while the canoe would be OK for landscape type photography. The way I look at it is a canoe is like a mini-van and a kayak is like a sports car. To complicate things, there are hybrids. I need the speed of the kayak to chase down "winged" ducks, easy concealment in the cattails, and the stable shooting platform. I would pick a kevlar canoe if going down easy rivers with passengers or needed the extra space, and if there wasn't going to be much wind. I've twice used a kevlar canoe and the extra cost seems worth it to me. My duckboat is fiberglass, and I would not take it out on a rocky stream. It is very strong though and gives me confidence when crushing through frozen lakes. Last month when we were in Hawaii we again rented sea kayaks. These are much easier to paddle around the rough surf by ocean cliffs and I like the acceleration of them to get out of danger spots. These were sit-on-tops though, which I would never consider buying where you & I live or for photography. Ultimately, you might consider finding a place that rents the cheap little kayaks and go for a spin. Shouldn't cost much.
Much said, I just want to mention too, that shooting from a kayak seems MUCH better than from a canoe to us. We traveled a lot with our Klepper folding seakayaks, which are extremely stable and you can lean out far to the side without fear of rolling. There are very nice versions of Feathercraft Kayaks, lightweight, easy to pack and travel with. (we took our folding kayaks out to the sea around Kodiak Island, Glacier Bay NP, Queen Charlotte Island, Chichagof Island, Sea of Cortez (Baja) and many more. (not to mention all the lakes and rivers) It never failed us as a shooting platform AND as a transporter (on long multi week seakayak trips).
Verena
Posted by Sean Watson on September 20, 2007 at 7:29 AM
If you want to make your kayak less tippy, you might try sponsons. I've read people feel comfrotable standing up in their kayak to cast a fishing line with these deployed. (I don't believe everything I read though .)
I don't canoe, but I'm pretty happy with my kayak (both as a way to get into interesting places to shoot and because kayaking is fun for its own sake). With my particular boat (a Wilderness Systems Tsunami 120), I do feel a bit cramped for gear. I've strapped a pretty full Dry Zone 200 on the deck in front of me, but I didn't like that much weight right in front of me and the way it changed the balance of the boat. Now I use a deck bag that comfortably fits a D200 and either a 70-200 VR or a 300 F/4, but doesn't really have room for much more. I also picked up a DryZone 100 and think it's likely to be easier to manage than the 200. I can imagine a boat with a bigger cockpit being less of a problem. I don't feel comfortable paddling my kayak with my camera around my neck; the camera just gets in the way of the paddle. So the general drill is to paddle around until I see something interesting. Put the paddle in my lap. Unzip the deck bag. Put the neck strap on. Remove the camera. Compose. Meter. Shoot. Bracket? Then put the camera away and move to the next spot. When a cute seal pops his head up to take a peek at me, I've got almost zero chances of catching him. I have, however, been able to drift up to all sorts of shy critters that I never would've been able to approach on land.
No matter what you do, I'd recommend renting/borrowing/demoing a number of boats before before you pick one. Spend some time in each boat you'd consider without your camera gear and get a feel for how it'll get you where you want to go. Think critically about what gear you're going to want to use. (Are you really going to change leses 10" above the water?) What are you going to shoot? (wildlife? flaura? landscape? macro?) In what lighting conditions? Having answered that, you should probably put a kit together and try out in the boats you like the best and see if that presents a problem.
Discussion
11 repliesI have lately given a lot of thought to purchasing a light, solo canoe or kayak to use as a photography platform. My own criteria is: light enough for me to handle alone (e.g. put on top of my car), relatively stable (especially initial stability), room to move around and store/set up gear, and cost. I have personally come to the conclusion that a canoe suits the purpose better than a kayak. But I haven't seen a lot of discussion about it. I know there are a couple of guys out there who photograph from a kayak.
I have also been thinking about the best way to carry, store and handle gear.
Any thoughts or experiences anybody wants to share?
For usage on the bay, sound, gulf, etc. I use my sea kayak exclusively since it is much more stable in wind and waves, and offers more protection for the equipment. Salt water can mean instant death to cameras so I'm more careful in how I pack my equipment.
Both venues certainly restrict movement somewhat and obviously make it more difficult to attain a stable platform. I use a monopod in the canoe usually as a tripod restricts movement almost entirely. Even in a stable canoe you can't get up and move around, so a tripod only allows shooting in one direction for all practical purposes. A monopod is more useful. I just brace my elbows on the cockpit coaming in the kayak and do the best I can. I always carry my tripod in each however for those shots where you can get out and set up properly.
In my canoe, I have a waterproof bag handy in case of rain but don't put my equipment in it usually. I've canoed for 30+ years and never capsized yet (except on purpose, ie, training), so protection from rain is my only concern there. If I'm shooting from the kayak, I will stick my camera in a open "dry bag" between shots just to prevent spray from wetting it, and I usually have another dry bag with an extra lens or two in it. The remainder of my equipment is in a closed dry bag in the sealed rear bulkhead. If I'm just using the kayak for transportation I will have all my equipment in dry bags and in the sealed rear bulkhead, and only pull it out upon reaching my destination. Generally I will only shoot from the kayak on calm days where I don't have to wear my spray skirt. If it's rough enough for a spray skirt, the equipment goes into the bulkhead. I will also use the kayaks in rivers sometimes if I'm paddling upstream - too darn hard paddling upstream in a canoe many times.
Hope this helps.
1) Easier to paddle. The double blade of the kayak gives far more power, and it's easier to keep the thing going straight. On lakes you can even add a little rudder, called a skeg. That keeps the boat going straight. All in all, a kayak will be far and away easier to propel than a kayak, especially if you are alone.
2) Better handling. A kayak is instantly responsive to the double blade paddle. You can turn on a dime and quickly reverse. Kayaks tend to be shorter than canoes and are easier to thread between the trees of flooded timber. They also have a lower center of gravity, making them inherently more stable. I also like the perspective of sitting at water level rather than up in the seat of a canoe. A kayak is also easier to camoflauge and hide in if photo'ing birds etc.
3) Safety. Not only is a kayak more stable, they also are safer when the waves kick up. A canoe is all open and a big wave taken sideways can fill it, and down she goes. A kayak is built so most of the top is covered and it sheds the water. There is also floatation foam in the ends. Mine is advertised to be able to keep floating even if it is totally filled with water! You can stow camera gear in waterproof bulkheads, although I still use a dry bag too.
Kayaks tend to be lighter and maybe a little less money than canoes. They are MUCH easier for one person to handle both in the water and out. The one downside to a kayak is they sit so low in the water they are nearly invisible. You need to be very careful if sharing water with power boats or jet skiis.
I've been using my fiberglass duck boat for about five years now. It's a modified kayak. It's 10 ft. long, weighs 65 pounds, about 34 inches at widest point (beam), and is very, very stable. I trust it even out on large glacial lakes during winter blizzards for late season duck hunts. One thing I'll mention is you do tend to get a little wetter in a kayak than a canoe, depending on conditions and how aggressive you paddle. When the water gets cold you really need to be wearing neoprene chest waders or wetsuit, but that's true whether you have a kayak or canoe. You don't want to be dumped into Lake Michigan even in the summer without having a neoprene suit on. Smaller lakes you don't really need one when the water is warm-ish.
The duckboat is the perfect compromise since it's designed to be a stable shooting platform. They are already camo colored and you can easilty rig up a blind to photo from using PVC pipe and duck hunting camo netting. The only thing I'd consider a canoe for is if you want to take a family out and need seating for four people. Even then, my family always rents a pair of tandem kayaks. They are much easier to paddle and more stable. Here's a link to a few examples:
http://tinyurl.com/2socby
Inexpensive kayak that comes in green:
http://www.oldtowncanoe.com/kayaks/recreation/otter.html
A better choice, might be the best one out there:
http://www.oldtowncanoe.com/kayaks/huntingFishing/predator_k111.html
The next bigger model but still lightweight:
http://www.oldtowncanoe.com/kayaks/huntingFishing/predator_k140.html
Old Town/Otter is a long established builder and I would bet you could find these in a local hunting supply. Better hurry though, it's on the verge of duck season.
I keep my camera gear in a dry bag and will likely get a Pelican case soon. The Nikon VR lenses are perfect for shooting from a boat, as is fast glass. Unless you beach it, a boat is constantly moving and shifting around. Forget about a tripod. I bought the Nikon 80-400mm VR lens specifically with the boat in mind and it has worked well. A little boat opens up a LOT of really great places, such as islands. I like to use either an ultrawide lens (10-20mm) so I can get the bow of the boat in the scene, or a telephoto for wildlife. Keep lens choice and gear as simple as possible. I have never had any photo gear damaged in my boat despite being out in some nasty conditions. I am careful and keep the gear stowed when not actually in use though. Despite being on big lakes in nasty winter storms, I have never flipped the boat. These duck boat style kayaks are very stable. I did once have a big wave fill it with water though. I bailed it out and kept going. One thing I'll mention is to be aware of safety. Don't go out during thunderstorms. If you hear it or see any lightning, get off the water fast! Know what your abilities and limits are in rough water. You should have no problem with waves under two feet, but when they start hitting three feet you need to know what you are doing. Remember that on big lakes you will not be able to paddle against a really strong wind out in the open, so take that into account (hug the shore.) Get a duck hunting style life vest and always wear it. They are thin and comfortable. I've had some close calls in really nasty December storms (when duck hunting is best!) but have never been harmed or lost any gear. I don't want to make it sound more dangerous than it really is, but until you learn what your & boat's limits are play it safe. Anyway, I'd take a close look at the smaller Predator K110 kayak. It will do all you want and more.
Kent in SD
I am generally familiar with canoes and their design and construction and know the solo canoe is generally going to compromise the high initial stability of the Camper (which is essentially impossible to solo). In fact my research tells me it is a series of compromises.
I do a lot of shooting with a 18-200 VR lens and am hoping the VR feature will help. I appreciate the comment about the Monopod. I have a gimbal type head on one of my tripods and was going to try that. But I'll definitely take the monopod along and test it, too, now.
Is your canoe a solo canoe? What model is it? One of the models I am seriously considering has "tucked" gunwhales in the center section and I am told can be paddled like a kayak with a double bladed paddle. I will consider purchasing one and having both paddles in the boat with me.
I have a couple of drybags, which I have used for my camera and lens the one or two times it has accompanied me in the canoe. I also wondered about one of the larger dry boxes made by Pelican, but they look like they might be awkward and they are darned expensive.
Thanks again for your comments.
Like Bill, I have been canoeing for a long time and will echo what he says. Recently I purchased a small kayak, 9 1/2 ft Swifty with a pretty wide beam, primarily for the purpose of photography. So far I have only had it in the salt water marshes where the Connecticut river flows into Long Island Sound. It has no bulkheads so I use a well padded dry bag to hold the camera between my feet forward of the cockpit whenever there is any chance of getting it wet. There isn't room for much more than one bag in the forward part of the kayak. A tripod would fit behind the seat, but, is useless unless you want to beach the craft somewhere to take a picture.
I think one of the advantages to the kayak is a closer proximity to the water surface which is less threatening to the wildlife. I have been able to get close enough to some birds to fill the frame with or at least have croppable images that I blow up to 11x16. I'm new to this site and and still filling up my portfolio, however, there is an image of an osprey and another of an Eastern Willet that was taken from the kayak in the portfolio. More will be added soon.
Since I confine this activity to calm water I have kept the camera around my neck while paddling, but, readily acknowledge that I need to think of a bit more protection for it. The biggest problem seems to be my poor paddling technique which allows water to run down the paddle and into the cockpit. Eventually it should all come together. In the meantime I am having a blast and highly recommend you give it a try.
I have looked at the Old Town Kayaks which are in plentiful supply here (Gander Mountain, Dick's Sporting Goods, among other places). The appear to be comparably priced with the canoes I have looked at (the two that top my list are a Mohawk Solo and an Old Town Pack -- they fit the weight and budget -- both are royalex, which is virtually indestructable -- and I believe slightly lighter than the polywhatever the kayaks are built with). The Pack weighs 33 lbs. The Mohawk, which is a foot longer, weighs 36 lbs. I can comfortably lift those to the top of my car.
I think the Kayak would be a lot of fun and I see the point about being lower on the water and maneuverability from a photography perspective.
I also have been made aware by kayakers that they do tend to be a slightly "wetter ride" than a canoe in the same conditions. I have done my homework on the capabilities and handling of the different boats.
I guess what I was looking for here was who is shooting from these platforms and what kind of experience they have had.
Thanks for the link to the duck boats. They do look interesting. The look a little heavy for my needs though (Much to my own surprise, I am getting older every year <G>)
My canoes are fiberglass (16') and Kevlar (17 1/2'). Both kayaks are roto-molded polyethylene. Fiberglass is great here in Florida, but would be unadvisable in many other areas where you have rapids, rocks, etc. I chose polyethelene for the kayaks over fiberglass or composite due to it being half the price.
There are so many differing conditions for which canoes and kayaks are used, it's very hard for a person in one part of the country to advise a person in another part what might be best. If you have a good professional canoe/kayak store where you live, consulting them may be your best bet.
I've been kayaking and canoeing for quite a few years and recently started taking pictures from both. I can add a couple of observations to the good ones already made. My primary boats are a 17.5' Queen Charlotte XL Expedition Seakayak (made from a Pygmy Boats kit about 8 years ago) and Hornbeck's 12.5' Lost Pond Canoe purchased about 3-4 years ago. both were selected with multiday camping trips in mind and photography is something new to them.
The Kayak is faster and better for open water such as the Great South Bay, where I live on the South Shore of Long Island. The canoe is used on quiet local rivers and upstate mountain lakes. I think the latter conditions are similar to yours and the canoe should be something you look at. Go to this link: http://www.hornbeckboats.com/
They offer several models (kayaks, too) and you can choose the size best suited to you. The real beauty of these canoes is you use them like a kayak - you sit on the bottom and use a double bladed paddle. This makes for a very stable, very dry, maneuverable boat. They are also extremely light - check those weights! By 12.5 footer, with extra layups and built-in floatation, weighs 24 pounds! Most are notable even lighter.
The only down side is they are not inexpensive. I have taken some good shots from the canoe and prefer it for 'in boat' shots over the kayak.
I'm still working on the camera protection thing myself. My present method is a series of drybags laid on the floor of the canoe when I'm actively shooting. When not shooting, I clip the rolltop of the drybags around the seat thwart so the camers and lenses are physically attached to the boat in the unlikely event of a capsize, the gear stays attached to the boat instead of makng like very expensive rocks and making for the bottom! This also keeps the gear out of the way but readily accesible if a photo opportunity presents itself.
good luck with your research and purchase.
Larry--
Your paddle should have some rubber rings on it, one on each end. These are called "drip rings." Move them up the pole about a foot away from the paddle. The idea is they stop the water from running down the pole of the paddle and into the boat.
I used a canoe for many years, but once I got a kayak I never looked back. The kevlar canoes are great and if I was really into canoes that's what I'd get. Some of the rental places in tourist areas buy them and then sell them off at the end of the season. Odds of finding a good kayak/duckboat used are about nil though. They aren't rented out and owners hang on to them. One thing I didn't think about was one of the reasons I prefer the kayak is it sits lower and is thus presents a lower profile to the wind. That's a major factor where I live on the Northern Plains. The little boat I have floats unloaded in about 3 inches of water, and with me in it about 5 inches. I wear cheap rubber barn boots ($15 pair) from Walmart that come up just below my knees to make it easy to get in and out of the boat. The other thing I really like about my little boat is I can pile it high with duck decoys and then push it out on a frozen lake. I can break through about half an inch to one inch of ice. I jam the paddle through the ice and pull myself & boat to open water, cutting a channel as I go.
The kayak/duckboat is best suited to wildlife photos, while the canoe would be OK for landscape type photography. The way I look at it is a canoe is like a mini-van and a kayak is like a sports car. To complicate things, there are hybrids. I need the speed of the kayak to chase down "winged" ducks, easy concealment in the cattails, and the stable shooting platform. I would pick a kevlar canoe if going down easy rivers with passengers or needed the extra space, and if there wasn't going to be much wind. I've twice used a kevlar canoe and the extra cost seems worth it to me. My duckboat is fiberglass, and I would not take it out on a rocky stream. It is very strong though and gives me confidence when crushing through frozen lakes. Last month when we were in Hawaii we again rented sea kayaks. These are much easier to paddle around the rough surf by ocean cliffs and I like the acceleration of them to get out of danger spots. These were sit-on-tops though, which I would never consider buying where you & I live or for photography. Ultimately, you might consider finding a place that rents the cheap little kayaks and go for a spin. Shouldn't cost much.
Kent in SD
Verena
Verena
I don't canoe, but I'm pretty happy with my kayak (both as a way to get into interesting places to shoot and because kayaking is fun for its own sake). With my particular boat (a Wilderness Systems Tsunami 120), I do feel a bit cramped for gear. I've strapped a pretty full Dry Zone 200 on the deck in front of me, but I didn't like that much weight right in front of me and the way it changed the balance of the boat. Now I use a deck bag that comfortably fits a D200 and either a 70-200 VR or a 300 F/4, but doesn't really have room for much more. I also picked up a DryZone 100 and think it's likely to be easier to manage than the 200. I can imagine a boat with a bigger cockpit being less of a problem. I don't feel comfortable paddling my kayak with my camera around my neck; the camera just gets in the way of the paddle. So the general drill is to paddle around until I see something interesting. Put the paddle in my lap. Unzip the deck bag. Put the neck strap on. Remove the camera. Compose. Meter. Shoot. Bracket? Then put the camera away and move to the next spot. When a cute seal pops his head up to take a peek at me, I've got almost zero chances of catching him. I have, however, been able to drift up to all sorts of shy critters that I never would've been able to approach on land.
No matter what you do, I'd recommend renting/borrowing/demoing a number of boats before before you pick one. Spend some time in each boat you'd consider without your camera gear and get a feel for how it'll get you where you want to go. Think critically about what gear you're going to want to use. (Are you really going to change leses 10" above the water?) What are you going to shoot? (wildlife? flaura? landscape? macro?) In what lighting conditions? Having answered that, you should probably put a kit together and try out in the boats you like the best and see if that presents a problem.
Hope this helps.
Sean