Posted by bob bartek on September 13, 2007 at 7:59 PM
Just would like to know if their is anyone out there, that has a problem with this lens for soft images?
Posted by Ronnie Gaubert on September 13, 2007 at 10:46 PM
Hello Bob,
I don't have this lens but from what I've read, it's not a top performer. As most lens in this class, it's best to shoot at around f/8. It's also important to know at which focal length it performs best. I just saw a post on DPReview that shows the sweet spot of this lens at various f/stops and focal length.
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1039&message=24810597
I'm sure it's an OK lens if you use it as a carry-around lens. I seriously doubt it has ever been considered a lens for really serious work.
Posted by Gene Lugo on September 14, 2007 at 5:47 AM
I have been using this lens for a year on a D200. I also own a razor-sharp 150 mm macro and an 80-200 2.8 that is also extremely sharp and contrasty. It is difficult to differentiate between the images taken with the 18-200 and the other lenses. Quite often lens reviews do not tell the whole story.
This lens is never soft in the center. It is resistant to flare at all focal lengths and lens openings. It has noticeable barrel distortion at 18mm that gives way to slight "moustache" or wavy distortion at 24 mm, and slight pincushion up to 200 mm. Stopping down to F8 considerably improves the edge and corner sharpness. There is some chromatic aberration that is really only visible in extremely contrasty situations. The bokeh, or out of focus smoothness is acceptable, but not as nice as an 85 mm 1.4 which is the gold standard for this. It is a true AS-F lens and the focusing is snappy and quiet.
All this means is that unless you are taking architectural photos which often requires excellent sharpness and freedom from distortion from corner to corner, you will be extremely happy with the results. It is sharp, contrasty, and capable of providing very punchy professional quality images. The VRII feature effectively lowers the maximum exposure length by at least 2 f stops or more, as long as your subject isn't moving too much. I have successfully used this lens hand held, wide open at around 24 mm at 1/8 sec exposure.
Compared to the third party alternatives, this lens is substantially better in all cases. Is it as good as a prime lens at all focus lengths? No, but it comes pretty close in field conditions. Just don't go around taking pictures of brick walls.
The lens extends when zooming and there is no dust sealing, so in dusty environments there is a potential for this to suck in dust particles. Construction is only fair for a lens that costs this much.
One added benefit is that you don't change lenses too often. I have used this lens at sporting events, for animal and wildlife, flowers, rock concerts, etc. As a carryaround, all-purpose lens it is unrivalled in my opinion. My typical kit is now reduced to this lens and a very sharp Sigma 10-20.
Overall I would rate my experience with this lens a solid 8.5/10, all things considered.
A useful tip is to use a $15 program called PT Lens to perform the distortion correction. It is fast, easy to use, and his database has 100s of lenses in it. It's correction is right on the money, using the EXIF data to dial in the appropriate correction at all focal lengths. It iwill completely flatten the barrel distortion to make the lens rectilinear at this focal length. The best $15 I've spent.
Posted by Ronnie Gaubert on September 14, 2007 at 6:27 AM
Bob,
There was a good tread on this lens a while back in this forum.
This might give you a little more info.
Discussion
3 repliesI don't have this lens but from what I've read, it's not a top performer. As most lens in this class, it's best to shoot at around f/8. It's also important to know at which focal length it performs best. I just saw a post on DPReview that shows the sweet spot of this lens at various f/stops and focal length.
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1039&message=24810597
I'm sure it's an OK lens if you use it as a carry-around lens. I seriously doubt it has ever been considered a lens for really serious work.
This lens is never soft in the center. It is resistant to flare at all focal lengths and lens openings. It has noticeable barrel distortion at 18mm that gives way to slight "moustache" or wavy distortion at 24 mm, and slight pincushion up to 200 mm. Stopping down to F8 considerably improves the edge and corner sharpness. There is some chromatic aberration that is really only visible in extremely contrasty situations. The bokeh, or out of focus smoothness is acceptable, but not as nice as an 85 mm 1.4 which is the gold standard for this. It is a true AS-F lens and the focusing is snappy and quiet.
All this means is that unless you are taking architectural photos which often requires excellent sharpness and freedom from distortion from corner to corner, you will be extremely happy with the results. It is sharp, contrasty, and capable of providing very punchy professional quality images. The VRII feature effectively lowers the maximum exposure length by at least 2 f stops or more, as long as your subject isn't moving too much. I have successfully used this lens hand held, wide open at around 24 mm at 1/8 sec exposure.
Compared to the third party alternatives, this lens is substantially better in all cases. Is it as good as a prime lens at all focus lengths? No, but it comes pretty close in field conditions. Just don't go around taking pictures of brick walls.
The lens extends when zooming and there is no dust sealing, so in dusty environments there is a potential for this to suck in dust particles. Construction is only fair for a lens that costs this much.
One added benefit is that you don't change lenses too often. I have used this lens at sporting events, for animal and wildlife, flowers, rock concerts, etc. As a carryaround, all-purpose lens it is unrivalled in my opinion. My typical kit is now reduced to this lens and a very sharp Sigma 10-20.
Overall I would rate my experience with this lens a solid 8.5/10, all things considered.
A useful tip is to use a $15 program called PT Lens to perform the distortion correction. It is fast, easy to use, and his database has 100s of lenses in it. It's correction is right on the money, using the EXIF data to dial in the appropriate correction at all focal lengths. It iwill completely flatten the barrel distortion to make the lens rectilinear at this focal length. The best $15 I've spent.
There was a good tread on this lens a while back in this forum.
This might give you a little more info.
http://www.naturephotographers.net/imagecritique/bbs.cgi?a=vm&mr=18808&b=se&st=0&la=18&ph=1&sid=4583&u=4583