hi all, i have a question regarding IS lenses when shooting in flight
shots. i've been on a couple of trips with my new 300 2,8 IS and im
having alot of trouble getting sharp frames of birds in flight.
Im talking handheld only. No problems on tripod, but i find small
falcons and such are much easier to track handheld.
This was no problem at all with the 400 5.6 but this new lens is really giving me a hard time , it's sharp as a tack when
doing birds posing and other still stuff so no problems there.
My question is, what do YOU guys do when shooting in flight shots ?
do you leave the IS off or do you use mode 2 ? , i have tried all
sorts of combinations, but the results are just not on par with my
good old 400 5.6
regards
Christian
Posted by Andy Astbury on September 18, 2007 at 7:41 AM
Hi Christian - I use the 100-400 for flight shots and I don't use the IS - I suffer with a lot of soft images as I'm sure most do when taking birds in flight, but the IS on this particular lens I found makes matters somewhat worse, and seeing as I use quite high shutter speeds it seems a bit unneccesary to be honest.
Mind you, your 300mm has a different IS version if I'm not mistaken so I really can't comment.
If you are trying to use the IS to control camera shake due to low shutter speed/exposure compensation you could try the route I'm on - 580EX + Better Beamer
Posted by David Kjaer on September 18, 2007 at 8:04 AM
Hi Christian
I have just returned from a trip shooting White-tailed Eagles hand held from a boat with the 300 f2.8 IS. I keep my IS switched off and had many really sharp images!
David
Posted by Elliott Neep on September 18, 2007 at 9:43 AM
It depends on the situation really. If it is bright enough, I switch my IS off or use mode 2 (for panning). If its dull then I leave IS on. I have the same lens and haven't had any issues. It may just take a bit of getting used to - the 300 f/2.8 is heavier and weighted differently.
Thanks for your input guys, looks like you are right, IS left in off position is way better.
went practicing for an hour after work and have greatly improved the number of keepers
even though there were only gulls
i just need to practice with this new kit and it will come around, thanks again
/Chris
Posted by John MacTavish on September 18, 2007 at 12:11 PM
Christian,
With any of the Canon super teles you need to give the IS about a second to a second and a half to work effectively, otherwise you will get blurred images.
The weight difference between your 400/5.6 and the 300/2.8 is something that must be taken into account......it is much easier to swing a light lens with accuracy than it is with a heavy one.....once you have developed a smooth technique with the 300 I suspect that you will wonder why you bought one with IS.
Posted by John Chapman on September 18, 2007 at 1:13 PM
Hi Christian what camera are you using?
John
Aberdeen
yeah i suspect it all comes down to training, which i will do everytime i have 10mins from now on
i understand the lenses are not the same in any aspect, weight, balance, etc. so i will have to
work with it. and i know focus speed will decrease when adding converters, and higher shutter
speeds are needed at 600mm than with 400mm to freeze the action in the frame.
i also see your point Rich, it's just that with the IS on i have a zero success rate (so far)
but again, im sure practice is the way to go.
the sparrowhawk in this link was the absolut sharpest frame of the 500+ taken that day.
Discussion
7 repliesshots. i've been on a couple of trips with my new 300 2,8 IS and im
having alot of trouble getting sharp frames of birds in flight.
Im talking handheld only. No problems on tripod, but i find small
falcons and such are much easier to track handheld.
This was no problem at all with the 400 5.6 but this new lens is really giving me a hard time
doing birds posing and other still stuff so no problems there.
My question is, what do YOU guys do when shooting in flight shots ?
do you leave the IS off or do you use mode 2 ? , i have tried all
sorts of combinations, but the results are just not on par with my
good old 400 5.6
regards
Christian
Mind you, your 300mm has a different IS version if I'm not mistaken so I really can't comment.
If you are trying to use the IS to control camera shake due to low shutter speed/exposure compensation you could try the route I'm on - 580EX + Better Beamer
I have just returned from a trip shooting White-tailed Eagles hand held from a boat with the 300 f2.8 IS. I keep my IS switched off and had many really sharp images!
David
went practicing for an hour after work and have greatly improved the number of keepers
even though there were only gulls
i just need to practice with this new kit and it will come around, thanks again
/Chris
With any of the Canon super teles you need to give the IS about a second to a second and a half to work effectively, otherwise you will get blurred images.
The weight difference between your 400/5.6 and the 300/2.8 is something that must be taken into account......it is much easier to swing a light lens with accuracy than it is with a heavy one.....once you have developed a smooth technique with the 300 I suspect that you will wonder why you bought one with IS.
John
Aberdeen
i understand the lenses are not the same in any aspect, weight, balance, etc. so i will have to
work with it. and i know focus speed will decrease when adding converters, and higher shutter
speeds are needed at 600mm than with 400mm to freeze the action in the frame.
i also see your point Rich, it's just that with the IS on i have a zero success rate (so far)
but again, im sure practice is the way to go.
the sparrowhawk in this link was the absolut sharpest frame of the 500+ taken that day.
http://www.cafoto.dk/sparrowhawk.jpg
Thank you all, your help is much appreciated !
/Chris