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Upsizing images

Discussion

13 replies
Posted by bill meikle on November 6, 2007 at 11:32 AM
Not sure if this is in the right place for this question but anyway, does anyone have any advice on resizing images for printing up to 24x36 or more??

Do you recommend PS CS3's bicubic smoother or some plug-in? I've used PS CS3 up to 20x30 and it seems to work OK.

I use a D200 and can't find a version of resizer from FredMiranda.com for this camera although this plug-in was recommended.

Thoughts?

Bill
Posted by Paul Beiser on November 6, 2007 at 12:13 PM
Everything I have seen from what I consider knowledgeable experts says that bicubic upsizing in CS3 is just as good as or most-people-cant-see-the-difference with respect to the other software applications or plug-ins.
Posted by Mel Ladewig on November 6, 2007 at 12:37 PM
That's what I've been seeing too. Genuine Fractals is supposed to create more detail, but it is so negligible that it isn't worth the additional investment.

Bicubic Smoother definitely provides an advantage over standard Bicubic for bigger enlargements.

The other advice that I'm hearing is that if you are going to have a lab print it, you might ask them what they would prefer. Apparently some of the tools used by a lab may be better at managing resizing than CS3.
Posted by bill meikle on November 6, 2007 at 12:56 PM
Mel, yes I have heard that the labs are claiming that they can upsize with better tools than PS bicubic smoother, although I haven't heard this verified from anyone who has actually printed as large as 24x36 or more. Denver Digital make this claim.

thanks,

Bill
Posted by Jesse Speer on November 6, 2007 at 1:50 PM
Agreed. In print, you'll be hard pressed to notice a difference between interpolation methods. I tried just a simple CS3 bicubic smoother enlargement for my last print order of 24x36 prints. At that size, I see no difference between results from two plugins I've used (DOP Upsizing and Alien Skin Blowup). I'll continue to use PS enlarging for prints up to that size. I still like the DOP Upsizing plugin though for really large prints. It is the best method for maintaining details - details that might show up in a 60" print (and definitely at 100% on your screen).
Posted by John Mumaw on November 6, 2007 at 1:51 PM
I've had 20x30 poster sized prints made from a 6MP DSLR at El-Co Color Labs, and the resizing they performed was phenomenal! They use a raster image processor (RIP) for resizing. Same with Mpix.
Speaking for myself, I let the labs do the work from now on.
Check out the prices at El-Co while you're here:
http://www.elcocolor.com/poster_special.htm

I've recommended this outfit to several folks here and at another photography forum that I frequent, and every single person has been floored by the quality. :wink:
Posted by bill meikle on November 6, 2007 at 4:07 PM
Thanks John, Jesse and all, great advice. Thanks a lot,

Bill
Posted by Dave Showalter` on November 6, 2007 at 5:12 PM
Bill,

I shoot a D200 and have made super-sharp 24X36's straight from P'shop. (at DDI/Slideprinter) Have you tried doing your own prep and getting the big prints made from CD? You might be surprised.
Posted by bill meikle on November 6, 2007 at 6:47 PM
Dave, I have consistently printed 20x30 from PS and had great results, but I have someone who wants a 24x36 print or bigger and I wasn't sure what results I would get or how to get the best results or how big I can go and still get great results. A friend who make very big prints recommended FredMiranda resizepro but isn't available for D200 or for CS3 so I wanted to hear what other folks were doing.
I haven't used DDI but hear good things about them. Thanks for all the advice.

I presume after you upsize in one step? in PS using bicubic smoother that you then resharpen again?

Bill

Posted by Kalin Wilson on November 6, 2007 at 7:48 PM
I did a bunch of tests a while ago and decided that for large percentage upsizing, the DOP action and Qimage Hybrid SE gave the best results but the difference from Bicubic smoother was negligible, unless you are pixel peeping. I liked Qimages other printing capabilities so I ended up buying that over genuine fractals or something else.
Also, I found the the results are very image dependent. So the results you get from different tools will probably differ with the image content. For a free, effective tool, download the DOP action. Sorry I don't have the URL handy.
Posted by Jack Brauer on November 6, 2007 at 8:19 PM
On a different note, I've found that it is usually better to drop down the dpi rather than blow up the image using full 300dpi. I often go down to 200dpi if I have to. Even 150dpi would be fine.
Posted by Roger Rouch on November 6, 2007 at 10:01 PM
Sounds like you already have your answer, but I just went through a similar issue for a 24X36 print, as I've not printed to this size before. I called DDI/slideprinter and asked whether it was better to leave the file in native resolution or upsize using PS bucubic smoother. They recommended using the printer to upsize and leave the file in native resolution. Being a little sceptical, I upsized to 240 dpi. I was pretty impressed with the result as was the buyer, but still wonder how other options might have turned out?
Posted by bill meikle on November 7, 2007 at 4:18 PM
I did a little experiment with a landscape image..

1. upsized on CS3 using bicubic smoother in three stages to 24x36.
2. same as 1. except applied 100% smart sharpen twice after resizing.
3. as 1. except resized in one step and not three.


The best was 2.

1. was a little better than 3.

Not very scientific but interesting,

Bill
Posted by bill meikle on November 7, 2007 at 4:57 PM
I tried the DOP plug-in and the results are very similar to number 2. process above.

thanks all,

Bill