Archival non-bleeding pens for Prints? Contact Info?

I thought I would ask the opinions of those whose work I respect
and I know have experience...
Until now I have been selling matted prints, but I am about to
offer prints ONLY and need some advise.
I use to sign on the front mat & put my contact info
on the back of the print mounted mat.

1) If I offer a print ONLY what do you sign with that is archival
and won't mess up the print?
Where can it be obtained?

2) How do you include your contact info since we don't want to
put anything on the back of the print?
I want to figure out something that won't get lost or
separated from the image for future reference....

All input appreciated...as I have an order waiting
and need to adapt correctly & efficiently as possible.

in gratitude,
Nelcha

Hi Nelcha, I typically sell prints that are just undersized from the paper it is being printed on. I sign the front lower left white area with a very Fine Tip Sharpie. On the opposite right hand side of the print white area, I print the name of the image, date, edition, etc. Placing it in these areas gives the option for the customer to cover it up with a matte if elected to do so, or leave exposed for viewing if inclined to do so. I also provide a Certificate of Authenticity to accompany the print. Hope this helps.

I use an 'extra fine' point Sharpie and sign in the lower right corner of the image, leaving enough room for my sig to show if the print is matted. If black won't show, I use either a gold or silver metallic pen and do the same.

When I flush mount the print, I sign the mount and write my initials on the print in very small letters.

I always include a separate sheet that gives information regarding care of prints, the image title, the date it was printed, the license for use, and my contact info. I do not write or attach anything to the back of the print. If the work is archivally framed, that info won't be visible anyway.

I hope this helps,

-PB

Thank You Paul & Preston.....
OK, I think I can see what I probably need to do for the image & contact info.
I agree about NOT putting anything on the back of the print...

I am totally in shock tho, about the Sharpies...Are they considered Archival?
I thought there was a different pen we were suppose to use?
Are they certified "Acid Free" etc?
They don't bleed even if you print on watercolor paper?
Not trying to MAKE things difficult...
maybe I just missed the announcement?

in gratitude,
Nelcha

Sorry Nelcha I cannot validate the Sharpie archival or acid free characteristics. It is the most permanent marker I know of and have used them for well over 30 years now & 15 of those on photo prints. I typically do not sign directly on the photo print, although I have upon request, but usually sign the open white borders I provide on slightly undersized image coverage of the odd sized papers made overall. It might be worth a search on Google to see what it might say about permanent markers and Sharpies in general. If you find anything worth sharing please do so. Thank you.

Hi Nelcha,

I kind of remember answering a similar question from you regarding providing contact information with your prints. Here it is again.

In addition to other forms of print documentation (signature on the print face, behind the print or additional paperwork such as COA, etc.) I also print some infomation on a white label. If I am making a framed piece, I stick the label on the back. If I am just offering a matted print or a loose print, I don't stick the label but give it to the customer anyways and ask them to stick it when they eventually get the print framed.

Here are some additional thoughts on this subject. The way I see it, when I sign one of my prints, I am basically telling the person receiving the print that this is my work and that I am satisfied with the manner in which it has turned out. Thats it! I therefore don't care if the customer frames over it or in case I signed the mat (for a matted piece), replaces the mat altogether. If they are ashamed to have my name associated with the print then by all means they should be free to do so. On the other hand, if they want to display/sell the print as being someone else's, there isn't much I can do to stop them unless I sign somethere very close to the center of the print. Even that can be removed by a very determined person. So far the folks who have purchased my work don't seem to have any issues with my signature being there (and it is quite humbling to know that).

I sign my prints using a #2 pencil. It is archival enough for my needs.

Regards.

Hi Anil,
Thanks for the reminder of the Label for the rear mat afterwards also....
Sounds lie I definitely need to create a COA tho....

The issue about signature had nothing to do with fraud or covering it up...
I just want a pen that is archival, acid-free, and won't bleed on whatever paper I am printing!
I might be doing some on a watercolor paper and others on matte.
Yeah, the #2 pencil was my 2nd choice but I'm not sure how well it does if I print on glossy?
I'm just trying to find ONE pen that will answer all of these papers needs

I appreciate the input folks....
JUST trying to catch uo with stuff like many others

in gratitude,
Nelcha

Hi Nelcha,

You are right about signing on glossy prints. Since I don't do glossy prints the pencil works fine for me. In any case, I am going to visit an arts supply store this afternoon to look at some portfolio cases. This place carries archival ink pens and so I should have some info for you soon.

Nelcha, these may be of help, they are acid free too.

http://www.genealogicalstorageproducts.com/arphotmarpen.html

Thanks again for the replies guys,
Preston I checked your site but I couldn't get a handle on the "tip" of the Pen size?
I just called a local Art supply store and they had a few pens in and
the guy was polite enough to compare the pens and discuss the differences with me.
It appears that the BEST Pen that would work on glossy to mat
and have all of the other required features is a Prismacolor ...
the older ones I was trying to remember were the Pigma-Micron
but during the discussion it came up that currently the Prismacolor
'would be best Currently...as printing papers have changed since digital, etc.
So here is the link to their site and I will probably either go for the
nib size of either 03 or 05.... On the site you have to buy the set,
but in stores you can buy just the individual pens.... which I will probably get a few of....
http://www.prismacolor.com/sanford/consumer/prismacolor/product/subCategory.jhtml?subCat=SNPRCat160001
If anyone can does NOT get have a local University or Local Art Supply,
my guy said they could possibly mail them....

Thanks again for ALL of your help!!
Let me know if you need some mailed....

in gratitude,
Nelcha

Hi Nelcha,

The art store I visited today stocks Sakura Pigma Micron pens. They come in various sizes. You can also purchase them here (single pens or sets).

Thanks Anil,
Guess you missed my reply just above yours...
The Pigma-Microns WERE the best in the past but not currently
Please read my above post.....
Thanks for all of your & everyone's input....
Hard to always stay current...
So sometimes it is good to re-ask previous questions
cuz this time I found a better pen than was previously THE pen to use...

in gratitude,
Nelcha

Nelcha,

I am surprised that "your guy" recommends Prismacolor over Pigma Micron. The former is known to bleed through on several paper types (and I thought that was one of your original concerns). Although I sign my prints using a #2 pencil, I often indulge in ink sketching. I have tried both makes and I have to say that I prefer the Pigma Micron over the other. BTW, you shouldn't have any problems using it on resin-coated papers (glossy, semi-matte, luster, etc.).

Of course, this is just my opinion so take it for what its worth.

Anil,
Thanks for your extra 2 cents.....
That WAS the main point that the guy was making was about the bleeding...
Maybe HE is confused or things have changed?
Now you REALLY got me wondering?
How long ago was it that you had heard this cuz I specifically asked him about this...
As I said above I remembered when he mentioned the name, that the Pigma-Micron
was the old name I had heard in the past....
but then he started going into detail about the other ones and why....
Sounds like I either got a dumb but enthusiastic salesman
or we need to check a 3rd store.....
hum....I'll dig a little deeper.... thanks for the reply

in gratitude,
Nelcha

Nelcha,

I sign my prints in the white border, even if IO mat and frame them. I use the Pigma-Micron on the RC papers like glossy and Luster. Works great.

Has anyone used the Pigma-Micron's on Hanamuhle Rag or Watercolor paper?
I'm concerned about bleeding....

thanks..

Hi All,

I wandered into a store today that sells materials and the like for 'scrapbookers'. I found a pen that comes in various sizes with pigment acid-free ink that is archival, waterproof, lightfast, and does not bleed. I tried the black 0.3mm tip sized pen on some rag and glossy photo papers at the store, and also on one of my proof prints on Epson Premium Luster. It works great! It took a few seconds to dry on luster paper: it dried instantly on the other papers. I haven't tried it on a matte or fine art velvet paper, as yet.

It is the 'Zig Memory System-Millennium' by Kuretake Co. I haven't done a search to see where other vendors might be, at this point.

-PB

I use Hahnemule Rag and I sign all my prints with carbon pencils. Michael Gordon told me about it. They work great, look great and never get dried out. I got a set at Michael's (the art supply store, not the Gordon) for a few bucks for a set of 4. They should last me close to my lifetime, or what is left of it.