Posted by Mitch Erwin on December 6, 2007 at 1:28 PM
Kyle,
It would help somewhat if you specified what kind of filters you are wanting information on as there are a plethora of different kinds: Graduated Neutral Density ( GND ), Neutral Density, Polarizers, etc. Are you wanting screw on types or square that fit in filter holders? Singh Ray is popular here, Hoya, Tiffen. The list goes on!
I'm looking for a polarizing filter and a UV filter or something to that nature (more for lens protection than anything else)
I would also like them to be screw-on.
Posted by David Bostedo on December 6, 2007 at 3:00 PM
Kyle - I would avoid any filter unless you have a need for it. Any filter, even a UV, can introduce flair, ghosting, etc. If, even considering that, you are really worried about lens protection, then a UV filter would be what you want, since it should be neutral, exposure and color wise. This might only be true with the better quality filters though - otherwise there could be some light loss, or more likely, a color cast. The most well regarded brands from what I have and have heard are B+W, Heliopan, and Hoya. Looks for multi-coated ones as they'll help prevent image problems. You'll also need to know what size you need for each lens. You can get separate ones per lens, or one large one and step rings. Be aware that this may introduce vignetting on some lenses though.
I have a hood on my Canon 100-400 right now, it seems to protect it fairly well. I only wipe it down on occasion. You think that is enough protection? Could it get scratched during cleaning with a microfiber cloth or something like that?
Posted by Steve Foss on December 6, 2007 at 4:35 PM
Careful cleaning with the microfiber cloth won't hurt the glass. Emphasis on careful.
I used a Hoya UV filter when I bought the lens as a protection, but eventually sold it because I didn't want any extra glass (no matter how good) between the sensor and the subject unless it was truly necessary. About the only filter I use on the 100-400 anymore is a Hoya circ polarizer (multicoated), and that not very often.
I'm also very anal about handling my lenses. I've had them in some tough places but watch very carefully how and where I set them down and take particular care to make sure the lens faces backwards as I walk through brush or woods, as well as never tipping the lens skyward unless I have to while shooting. A lens pointing up is an invitation for trouble from above. The only time I don't have the lens hood in position is when the lens is being stored in my bag, and with the lens cap on. When on the way to a shoot or when shooting, the hood is ALWAYS on. In other words, if the lens cap is off, the lens hood is on.
Posted by Kent Staubus on December 6, 2007 at 5:04 PM
I used to use a UV filter but only do that rarely now. They can cause problems with some kinds of shots. I use a lenshood 100% of the time, and when lens isn't actually taking a photo, I put the plastic cap on. That's the best protection there is! The few times I will put a UV filter on is when I'm around waterfalls (fine spray is full of grit) or in dust storms etc. I use a polarizer quite often for outdoor shots but would NOT leave one on just to have it on. They eat up about 2 stops of light!
To clean a lens, I first blow the dust off with my rocket bulb. (A rubber blower, you should have one for your sensor anyway.) I then carefully wipe with a microfiber cloth being careful to NOT push down hard. If there are fingerprints etc., I use a lens tissue with ONE drop of cleaning fluid applied to the tissue.
There is one other deal out there that I've been using to clean lenses that I'm very happy with. Walmart carries some ZEISS lens tissues. These are in foil packs and are premoistened. Work like a charm and are very cheap--$2.49 for a whole box full. They are sort of like those little moist hand wipes. Again, don't scrub hard on the glass.
Just remember that your lens is only as good as the filter on the front of it. It make no sense to buy a professional grade lens and then use a cheap filter. I would only buy the very best filters, this is not the item you should cut corners with in order to save a buck, since it directly affects image quality.
Even though it is December, we are still having to use our polarizing filters because much of hte vegetation is still green and reflecting sunlight here in north Texas. Without them there would be way too much glare off the vegetation. And, no amount of Photoshop will fix that unless you want to paint every individual leaf in a frame. So, filters are a necessity.
We have two really good 77mm circular polarizers. One is a "Moose" filter which combines the CP with an 81a warming filter. The other is a B+W multicoated filter. The latter cost about $180 if memory serves me correctly while the Moose filter, which is made by Hoya, was about $100. But, the latter is not multicoated.
Previously, we had a 77mm filter which we picked up in South Africa. But, it was lousy. And yes, really good filters are over priced. BUT, you get what you pay for. And Carl above is 110% correct.
Discussion
8 repliesThanks!!
It would help somewhat if you specified what kind of filters you are wanting information on as there are a plethora of different kinds: Graduated Neutral Density ( GND ), Neutral Density, Polarizers, etc. Are you wanting screw on types or square that fit in filter holders? Singh Ray is popular here, Hoya, Tiffen. The list goes on!
I'm looking for a polarizing filter and a UV filter or something to that nature (more for lens protection than anything else)
I would also like them to be screw-on.
I used a Hoya UV filter when I bought the lens as a protection, but eventually sold it because I didn't want any extra glass (no matter how good) between the sensor and the subject unless it was truly necessary. About the only filter I use on the 100-400 anymore is a Hoya circ polarizer (multicoated), and that not very often.
I'm also very anal about handling my lenses. I've had them in some tough places but watch very carefully how and where I set them down and take particular care to make sure the lens faces backwards as I walk through brush or woods, as well as never tipping the lens skyward unless I have to while shooting. A lens pointing up is an invitation for trouble from above. The only time I don't have the lens hood in position is when the lens is being stored in my bag, and with the lens cap on. When on the way to a shoot or when shooting, the hood is ALWAYS on. In other words, if the lens cap is off, the lens hood is on.
To clean a lens, I first blow the dust off with my rocket bulb. (A rubber blower, you should have one for your sensor anyway.) I then carefully wipe with a microfiber cloth being careful to NOT push down hard. If there are fingerprints etc., I use a lens tissue with ONE drop of cleaning fluid applied to the tissue.
There is one other deal out there that I've been using to clean lenses that I'm very happy with. Walmart carries some ZEISS lens tissues. These are in foil packs and are premoistened. Work like a charm and are very cheap--$2.49 for a whole box full. They are sort of like those little moist hand wipes. Again, don't scrub hard on the glass.
Kent in SD
I use B+W MCR filters and Singh Ray.
We have two really good 77mm circular polarizers. One is a "Moose" filter which combines the CP with an 81a warming filter. The other is a B+W multicoated filter. The latter cost about $180 if memory serves me correctly while the Moose filter, which is made by Hoya, was about $100. But, the latter is not multicoated.
Previously, we had a 77mm filter which we picked up in South Africa. But, it was lousy. And yes, really good filters are over priced. BUT, you get what you pay for. And Carl above is 110% correct.