Posted by Mel Ladewig on December 20, 2007 at 12:50 PM
I wouldn't describe myself as an expert wood crafter, but I'm at least hopeful that I can complete this project successfully.
The wood is Bubinga or African Rosewood.
Posted by Mel Ladewig on December 20, 2007 at 12:55 PM
The board is 1/8" thick.
The goal of the project is to make one of these for my #00 shutter. And if that goes well and fits on the camera, I'll probably make another for my #0 shutter. This should function just as well and look a lot better finished than the bland matte black painted metal board.
Hopefully I'll have some updates soon and I'll share pictures as this goes along. I'm hoping to have it finished in time for the shindig.
Mel-
Posted by Rene Pirolt on December 20, 2007 at 10:28 PM
Mel
…if all else fails, you can always buy an Ebony brand lensboard, which is covered with ebony wood veneer.
Posted by Brad Beeler on December 20, 2007 at 11:59 PM
Wow... Bubinga that is a really hard and dense wood. Maple or even Ash would be good too.
Posted by Mel Ladewig on December 21, 2007 at 8:57 AM
Brad, I looked at some maple and ash, but all the thin stock was cupping. Bubinga was the only thing I could find that was this thin and flat. This stuff is extremely dense.
Rene, somehow, I don't think that an Ebony lensboard is going to be more cost effective. Also, I'd be very surprised if such a board is offered in a #00 size.
Posted by Scott Bacon on December 21, 2007 at 10:52 AM
Mel, great project and beautiful piece of wood. Did you get that locally? Can I ask where?
I've made a number of lensboards using everything from cardboard (believe it!), to birch, to aluminum. Each resulted in a perfectly functional lensboard, although some are prettier than others. Some will tell you that the raised circular ridge, which fits into the hole of the camera's front standard, is required to prevent light leaks. But in my practical experience, I've found that it's simply not needed.
Have fun with your project and be sure to post your results!
Posted by Mel Ladewig on December 21, 2007 at 11:42 AM
I got the wood at Woodcraft in Colorado Springs. There is one in Denver and one in Loveland as well. They stock a range of exotic and domestic wood in a variety of sizes. I was looking for 1/16 to 1/8 thickness plank wood and this was one of the pieces they have in stock. Like I said, alot of the other pieces of this thin stock had some cupping issues. It was a shame as one of the pieces was a really nice birdseye maple and another was curly maple. It is definitely good to be able to walk in and visually inspect the wood and choose the best for your application.
They had some 1/16 birch plywood and my original idea was to build the board in the plywood and cover with a nice burl veneer, but on inspection I didn't feel that the plywood would be strong enough to carry in a backpack. I was afraid that it would be broken if it got pinched between things. I thought about 1/8 plywood, which would have been strong enough, but I would need to router a channel for the retaining bar into the top of the board and thin plywood and routers do not mix.
Scott, I agree about the shape of the board and knowing you, I have no doubt about the cardboard lensboard . My calumet has flat boards with just a lip around the front and there are no light leaks. I'm just going to paint the back of the board matte black and call it a day (and this is probably overkill). The front of the board will be wet sanded and polished polyurethane.
Posted by Scott Bacon on December 21, 2007 at 11:56 AM
Mel wrote:
...and knowing you, I have no doubt about the cardboard lensboard.
Are you inferring that I'm cheap?! Well, you're right!! Though, I prefer frugal. And actually, the cardboard lensboard was temporary. I just couldn't wait to use a new lens for which I didn't have the right sized lensboard.
But mostly, I just love making things myself, if possible. I enjoy it (as you obviously do). Sometime I'll show you my tophat lensboard made from a $5 eBay aluminum Calumet recessed lensboard. Hint: A belt sander is a great tool for working aluminum.
Posted by Mel Ladewig on December 21, 2007 at 12:38 PM
Nah, Scott. I'm inferring that you're a creative problem solver.
Posted by Scott Bacon on December 21, 2007 at 1:40 PM
Ha!
Posted by Rene Pirolt on December 21, 2007 at 2:17 PM
I can attest to the top hat lensboard that Scott made – that thing is sweet!
You gus can go into business together making lensboards and photo gadgets – call it S&M Accessories!!!
Posted by Scott Bacon on December 21, 2007 at 3:12 PM
I bet our "S&M Photo" company website would get tons of visitors!
Sorry, Mel. This thread is deteriorating...
Posted by Mel Ladewig on December 26, 2007 at 2:41 PM
I've spent some time reducing the thickness of the board and hand carved recesses for the retaining bar and the front clips. Here I've test fitted the lens into the board and the board into the camera. I confirmed that I could achieve infinity focus with the 65mm lens on this flat board.
Next step, polyurethane and matte black paint (for the back). I sprayed a little polyurethane on a scrap piece. This wood looks amazing when finished!
Posted by Mel Ladewig on December 26, 2007 at 4:27 PM
No way. Too time consuming and I'm still a little rough with my wood carving.
But at this point I'll at least have this one ready for the shindig.
Posted by Mel Ladewig on December 28, 2007 at 10:07 AM
I've finished the wet sanding and polyurethane. Before the last coat went on, it was wet sanded with 1500 grit leaving a very smooth surface. I've used semi gloss polyurethane. You can see the wood took a much richer color with the polyurethane. No stain was applied to get this color. What you can't see is the almost sparkling wood grain that results from the gum pockets in this wood.
Now I'll let it air dry for a week or so to let the polyurethane harden fully and then mount the lens.
Mel-
Posted by Scott Bacon on December 28, 2007 at 3:51 PM
Discussion
16 repliesThe wood is Bubinga or African Rosewood.
The goal of the project is to make one of these for my #00 shutter. And if that goes well and fits on the camera, I'll probably make another for my #0 shutter. This should function just as well and look a lot better finished than the bland matte black painted metal board.
Hopefully I'll have some updates soon and I'll share pictures as this goes along. I'm hoping to have it finished in time for the shindig.
Mel-
…if all else fails, you can always buy an Ebony brand lensboard, which is covered with ebony wood veneer.
Rene, somehow, I don't think that an Ebony lensboard is going to be more cost effective. Also, I'd be very surprised if such a board is offered in a #00 size.
I've made a number of lensboards using everything from cardboard (believe it!), to birch, to aluminum. Each resulted in a perfectly functional lensboard, although some are prettier than others.
Have fun with your project and be sure to post your results!
They had some 1/16 birch plywood and my original idea was to build the board in the plywood and cover with a nice burl veneer, but on inspection I didn't feel that the plywood would be strong enough to carry in a backpack. I was afraid that it would be broken if it got pinched between things. I thought about 1/8 plywood, which would have been strong enough, but I would need to router a channel for the retaining bar into the top of the board and thin plywood and routers do not mix.
Scott, I agree about the shape of the board and knowing you, I have no doubt about the cardboard lensboard
But mostly, I just love making things myself, if possible. I enjoy it (as you obviously do). Sometime I'll show you my tophat lensboard made from a $5 eBay aluminum Calumet recessed lensboard. Hint: A belt sander is a great tool for working aluminum.
You gus can go into business together making lensboards and photo gadgets – call it S&M Accessories!!!
Sorry, Mel. This thread is deteriorating...
Next step, polyurethane and matte black paint (for the back). I sprayed a little polyurethane on a scrap piece. This wood looks amazing when finished!
RichieV
But at this point I'll at least have this one ready for the shindig.
Now I'll let it air dry for a week or so to let the polyurethane harden fully and then mount the lens.
Mel-