Second curtain flash

I have some shot from GOG where the sky and clouds were just about perfect but my foreground was very dark. Has anyone used second curtain flash and does anyone know if this would help in situations like this? The foreground trees and rocks were only a few feet away. Thanks

I've used 2nd curtain flash, but not for this scenario. I don't see how it would make a difference between the two flash syncing modes when you are working this way. Compared to sunrise light, the output from the flash would be very cold, so you would probably want to use some warming gels on the flash. Still, I think it would be very difficult to make this look natural.

Mel-

It seems to me that you're basically asking about "fill flash," rather than second curtain flash. And, as Mel notes, there are a lot of "ifs" in this situation, as fill flash is typically used in a situation like you want to capture detail in a person's face while also maintaining lighting balance in a back-lit situation. To try to wash a whole foreground with a flash might be difficult. If this situation presents itself again, you might consider light painting...

Good luck,

Tim!

I've used fill flash before to light up the foreground. As Mel points out, you'll want to match the flash color temp with your ambient by using a colored gel over the flash head. I carry along several precut gels (primarily various ambers and light greens) with Velcro tabs, which fit across the head. It's best to space the gel out a bit from the flash, because the heat can cause the gel to start melting. For fill light, I usually adjust the flash intensity (flash compensation) down by 1.7 stops, or so. Place the flash in TTL mode. You can try using auto-exposure, but often, I find manual exposure is more consistent. First, expose for the overall scene - then adjust your flash compensation up/down until you like the effect. Position the flash down low (matching the angle of the sun) by either using a flash extension cable or positioning your tripod low to the ground. If the flash is high and pointed down, you'll end up with an oval spot of light on the ground - not the effect you'll want. The idea is that you want to light up the foreground elements; but not necessarily the ground.

Regards, Ken

It almost sounds like the situation you describe would be best handled by either graduated neutral density filters or a multi-exposure HDR blend. If you made an image it would help for you to post it so we have a better idea of the situation with which you were dealing.

If you were only trying to light up a small foreground element (juniper tree, flower, etc.) another idea is to use a portable reflector to cast natural light back on to the foreground. I use mine often enough to warrant its inclusion in my pack. Just as in using a flash you are limited in the amount of area it will fill with light but in most cases you'll get plenty of light for prominent foreground features.

I shoot in the Garden a lot and found a similar situation (brighter sky, darker trees). I also agree with Mel and Bret on the use of a flash.

I think the best way to handle this is with a blended exposure or GND filter. Have you tried either of these yet? If you shoot digital RAW you can process two exposures from one file, then blend in PS.

I use blends a lot. The thing you have to watch out for is 'too much of a good thing' whether you go with a flash, filter or blend. Subtle change is the real challenge and key to a well balanced, natural looking overall image.

A special note on the Garden. Nothing helps more than when natural conditions are at their best: Clearing sky with some clouds and a lot of snow on the trees and rocks. Your images will require a lot less fancy tricks when this occurs and look better. Here are a couple examples of when the snow brightens up the trees, etc:
http://www.landandseaphoto.smugmug.com/photos/232741735-XL.jpg

http://www.landandseaphoto.smugmug.com/photos/232743000-XL.jpg

This can be done very effectively, especially when shooting a small group of flowers with a wide angle lens. Just turn on the flash and be sure to use the aperture value setting or manual exposure. Most of the newer TTL flashes will give you a pretty close flash adjustment based on the distance to the focal point but you may need adjust down as suggested.

I tend to use multiple exposures and blend them, but if it is windy the flash might be your best bet.

Another thing that has not been mentioned is carrying a flashlight which can work pretty good because the light temp is usually warmer than flash.