Posted by Randy Cox on February 5, 2008 at 1:29 PM
Wow! What service! Thanks for all the input on my question! I am going to "go for the glass" and get the 100-400.(sounds like a good canon add, maybe someone should trademark that quick! haha) Again, thanks everyone and be prepared to answer many questions from a knucklehead new guy! Maybe I will accidently get a good shot when I go to WY and MT in May for 10 days armed with my new lens and 10 thumbs! Randy
Posted by Steve Foss on February 5, 2008 at 5:13 PM
Randy, have fun when you pick up the new baby!
Couple tips I've found helpful.
If it's your first experience with IS, it's still very important not to get lazy and force the IS to do too much work. Solid technique developed over non IS lenses will see you well, particularly if you're used to shorter lenses (at 400mm there can be a lot of wobble.) Both these factors contribute to the learning curve that's there for any new lens but sometimes gets people frustrated when upgrading to this lens.
Probably I mentioned a monopod in that other thread, and it's a deadly combo with IS. I use a tripod with the lens as needed (IS turned off) but find the monopod a much more convenient field steadying tool. I leave mine screwed on the lens mount but collapse it and pivot it forward for ease of carry, but where it's still ready to go at an instant's notice.
I frequently shoot the lens at f8. It can be a bit soft wide open, though I have sold quite a few images to glossy mags shot at f5.6. These great newer DSLRs do well at iso400 noisewise, so I generally shoot at iso400 and f8 unless there's brighter light.
Unless I'm shooting moving subjects, I typically choose one-shot focus mode and the center focus point. The center point is the most sensitive one on your camera, and I've had very good luck locking focus with that point, even when contrast isn't the best or light is somewhat low. Then, once focus is locked, I recompose and shoot.
I've also had good luck with birds in flight by switching to Al servo and retaining the center focus point, though I either switch the IS to mode 2 (panning) or shut it off completely.
While I've found the lens focusing speed fast enough, it is noticeably faster for me when I select the longer minimum focusing distance, which gives the lens less work in finding and locking focus because it eliminates the close distances. Of course, you've got to be sure to switch it back if subjects are going to come in close or you can be stuck with no autofocus at a crucial moment (been there, done that.)
Good luck with it, and be sure to post some of your work for us to see.
Discussion
1 repliesCouple tips I've found helpful.
If it's your first experience with IS, it's still very important not to get lazy and force the IS to do too much work. Solid technique developed over non IS lenses will see you well, particularly if you're used to shorter lenses (at 400mm there can be a lot of wobble.) Both these factors contribute to the learning curve that's there for any new lens but sometimes gets people frustrated when upgrading to this lens.
Probably I mentioned a monopod in that other thread, and it's a deadly combo with IS. I use a tripod with the lens as needed (IS turned off) but find the monopod a much more convenient field steadying tool. I leave mine screwed on the lens mount but collapse it and pivot it forward for ease of carry, but where it's still ready to go at an instant's notice.
I frequently shoot the lens at f8. It can be a bit soft wide open, though I have sold quite a few images to glossy mags shot at f5.6. These great newer DSLRs do well at iso400 noisewise, so I generally shoot at iso400 and f8 unless there's brighter light.
Unless I'm shooting moving subjects, I typically choose one-shot focus mode and the center focus point. The center point is the most sensitive one on your camera, and I've had very good luck locking focus with that point, even when contrast isn't the best or light is somewhat low. Then, once focus is locked, I recompose and shoot.
I've also had good luck with birds in flight by switching to Al servo and retaining the center focus point, though I either switch the IS to mode 2 (panning) or shut it off completely.
While I've found the lens focusing speed fast enough, it is noticeably faster for me when I select the longer minimum focusing distance, which gives the lens less work in finding and locking focus because it eliminates the close distances. Of course, you've got to be sure to switch it back if subjects are going to come in close or you can be stuck with no autofocus at a crucial moment (been there, done that.)
Good luck with it, and be sure to post some of your work for us to see.