Posted by Nathan Lovas on February 10, 2008 at 8:48 PM
Anyone out there who uses/used the Kirk window mount? I would llike to be able to mount either my 600 mm or 200-400 vr on it while I drive around looking for wildlife/birds. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks..Nate
I've used mine for many years, but you're taking your life (or at least your lens) in your hands driving while the camera/lens is mounted on it. That's a lot of weight up there, and windows only flex so far when you hit a bump.........
I use my old A/S B-1 on mine, and it's simple enough to dismount the camera/lens using the quick release clamp. I keep my camera pack open on the seat beside me and simply lay the setup into that for support while I drive. Yeah, with the hood on the lens the camera and any extenders stick out the top of the pack, but that doesn't matter when the pack is laying on the seat as kind of a "camera rack."
If you have to drive (slowly, carefully, and for short distances), rest your elbow on the arm rest and reach up with your hand and grab the base of the camera body for a little extra support. If necessary to match the length of your forearm to the car dimensions, it's best to swivel the lens upward so the body of the camera drops to the right height. Then dodge all potholes!
Posted by Jack Graham on February 11, 2008 at 2:46 AM
Nathan;;
here is an article I did for the AAA Magazine about 5 years ago-It was how I shoot using the Kirk Mount. The only thing I would add is
1)Get a good ball head ( a sturdy one--just like you would use on a tripod) and
2) I own the old Kirk mount. I hear the new one is a lot better.
These mounts really help vs the old reliable bean bag.
JG
Just because you have this invaluable accessory, it doesn't completely solve the problem of vibration. In many cases you may have to turn off your motor completely to eliminate the vibration caused by the engine completely. Be aware of engine vibration. It can make, or break your photos.
Long lenses in the 400mm to 600mm range are a necessity for shooting wildlife and birds. This is no different when shooting from your vehicle. Often I add a 1.4x teleconverter to my 600mm f4 lens to make it a 900mm f/5.6 lens is. I use a little higher shutter speed id possible, like 1\250 or higher second which greatly improves my percentage of sharp photos.
Since most of the wildlife and birds that I have photographed have been on less traveled roads, I always remember to be even more careful on roads that are more frequently traveled. Shooting from your vehicle is not easy and can get quite frustrating unless you are in remote locations.
Be careful when driving dirt roads in wildlife areas. Drive slowly and be aware of your surroundings, looking left and right and above all in front of you for safety. Many of these dirt roads are unimproved with muddy shoulders, if they have shoulders at all. After storms, getting stuck is a real possibility. Drive carefully, stay in the lane and stay away from the edges.
Always obey all traffic regulations. It's best to turn off any music or radio programs when either photographing or just looking around
After finding a good location for vehicle photography, I always drive the back roads area very slowly. Slow to me, is having the vehicle in moving at about 2-3 mph while looking for wildlife near the road, on both sides just ahead. When I see a possible subject, I slow down to a crawl, until I am just at the right distance. Sometimes I even turn the ignition off to stop engine vibration from creating unsharp photos before I actually get to the position I want to be in.
Now, your knowledge of metering, camera functions, as well as compositional techniques, becomes integral. I usually use my spot meter (camera in the Manual mode) for proper exposure. Metering usually takes just a few seconds then I shoot away, motor drive firing. Sometimes (especially with songbirds) the motor drive will spook the subjects. This is just part of the experience. However, at other times birds and wildlife may react by freezing for a few seconds which allows me shoot many original frames. Once you get back the results, you, as I have, will enjoy the rewards of using your vehicle as a photo blind.
Posted by Cliff Beittel on February 11, 2008 at 1:31 PM
I like the Kirk mount a lot. I use it with the original Wimberley. With an SUV or truck, there's enough room, and the Wimberley offers all the advantages from a car as on a tripod. (The Wimberley II might not work as well.) I have driven long distances with the lens on the window, as I once had access to a nine-mile paved road on a South Texas ranch. I also drove off road with a 600 on the window, never had any problem. I like to attach the Kirk to the glass, then lower the window until the Kirk is solidly against the door frame--that way the weight is on the door frame and there's less stress on the glass. I also use a lens strap as a safety strap, as well as keeping one hand on the lens when driving.
Discussion
3 repliesI use my old A/S B-1 on mine, and it's simple enough to dismount the camera/lens using the quick release clamp. I keep my camera pack open on the seat beside me and simply lay the setup into that for support while I drive. Yeah, with the hood on the lens the camera and any extenders stick out the top of the pack, but that doesn't matter when the pack is laying on the seat as kind of a "camera rack."
If you have to drive (slowly, carefully, and for short distances), rest your elbow on the arm rest and reach up with your hand and grab the base of the camera body for a little extra support. If necessary to match the length of your forearm to the car dimensions, it's best to swivel the lens upward so the body of the camera drops to the right height. Then dodge all potholes!
here is an article I did for the AAA Magazine about 5 years ago-It was how I shoot using the Kirk Mount. The only thing I would add is
1)Get a good ball head ( a sturdy one--just like you would use on a tripod) and
2) I own the old Kirk mount. I hear the new one is a lot better.
These mounts really help vs the old reliable bean bag.
JG
PS__Hank is 100% right on!
____________________________
Photographing from your Vehicle
©J. Graham
PHOTOGRAPHING FROM YOUR VEHICLE
©Jack Graham Quite simply, your vehicle makes a great photo blind. Birds and "watchable" wildlife often are not spooked by vehicles. However, when you open the door to get out, they scatter or fly away. So, how can you shoot from the vehicle, and still get the benefits that you have when using a tripod to eliminate blurred images and allow us to shoot at slow shutter speeds? The answer is two fold. A sturdy beanbag rested on your window will help, but not 100% of the time. There is an answer. I have used the KIRK WINDOW MOUNT, a solid window mount that locks your long lens or camera body to the car door, for over 10 years now with amazing results. (www.kirkphoto.com $179.95)
Using the Kirk mount is easy. First, roll the window up a few inches and clamp it to the window. Push the rubber feet against the door below the window and tighten another knob to lock it to the door. The window mount is now anchored to the door and won't move. Then attach your camera or lens (using quick release plates for ease) to what ever tripod head you use (I suggest a sturdy ball head) and you're in business.
Just because you have this invaluable accessory, it doesn't completely solve the problem of vibration. In many cases you may have to turn off your motor completely to eliminate the vibration caused by the engine completely. Be aware of engine vibration. It can make, or break your photos.
Long lenses in the 400mm to 600mm range are a necessity for shooting wildlife and birds. This is no different when shooting from your vehicle. Often I add a 1.4x teleconverter to my 600mm f4 lens to make it a 900mm f/5.6 lens is. I use a little higher shutter speed id possible, like 1\250 or higher second which greatly improves my percentage of sharp photos.
Since most of the wildlife and birds that I have photographed have been on less traveled roads, I always remember to be even more careful on roads that are more frequently traveled. Shooting from your vehicle is not easy and can get quite frustrating unless you are in remote locations.
Be careful when driving dirt roads in wildlife areas. Drive slowly and be aware of your surroundings, looking left and right and above all in front of you for safety. Many of these dirt roads are unimproved with muddy shoulders, if they have shoulders at all. After storms, getting stuck is a real possibility. Drive carefully, stay in the lane and stay away from the edges.
Always obey all traffic regulations. It's best to turn off any music or radio programs when either photographing or just looking around
After finding a good location for vehicle photography, I always drive the back roads area very slowly. Slow to me, is having the vehicle in moving at about 2-3 mph while looking for wildlife near the road, on both sides just ahead. When I see a possible subject, I slow down to a crawl, until I am just at the right distance. Sometimes I even turn the ignition off to stop engine vibration from creating unsharp photos before I actually get to the position I want to be in.
Now, your knowledge of metering, camera functions, as well as compositional techniques, becomes integral. I usually use my spot meter (camera in the Manual mode) for proper exposure. Metering usually takes just a few seconds then I shoot away, motor drive firing. Sometimes (especially with songbirds) the motor drive will spook the subjects. This is just part of the experience. However, at other times birds and wildlife may react by freezing for a few seconds which allows me shoot many original frames. Once you get back the results, you, as I have, will enjoy the rewards of using your vehicle as a photo blind.