Hope I am in the right forum for this. I am trying to mount 24 X 36 photographs to a backboard for framing. When I use T hinges made with Linen arcival tape by Linco (from Dick Blick), 3 T's across the top, after framing, and the tape drying, there are noticable waves where the tape has been placed. I want the photographs to be smooth, so can someone please tell me what product or method to use to accomplish this. I thought about using rice paper, but this still has the same type glue on the back. I know that the atmospheric moisture has some effects on print movement. I am desperate, as I have a show coming up in 10 days and can't seem to mount these photographs without these ugly waves. Thanks
Posted by Dan Baumbach on February 26, 2008 at 11:01 AM
When I do this I always have a border at the top which is covered by the matt so the marks made by the hinges aren't seen.
- Dan.
Posted by Steve Foss on February 26, 2008 at 11:39 AM
I use spray adhesive and a brayer (roller) to mount large photographs to foamcore. I spray the whole surface of the foamcore and lay the center of the print on the foamcore, rolling it out to each side as I go to ensure it's bonded with no air bubbles. On really large prints it's a two-person job.
Once mounted and with the adhesive set, I use a straight-edge and razor cutter to trim away the unwanted foamcore.
I do it this way because I couldn't find a way to hang-mount large prints and avoid that wavey look.
Posted by Marc Adamus on February 26, 2008 at 11:53 AM
Most show pros I know won't consider T hinges at over 20x30 or so. I'd suggest dry mounting and if you can't find a way to do it yourself, given the deadline, it's pretty cheap at most frame stores ($20 or so for a 24x36).
Posted by Don George on February 26, 2008 at 12:13 PM
I agree with Marc, I drymount all my photo's. I have my own drymount machine but I know our local frame shops will do it. I ended up buying my own machine 20 years ago and it has paid off in spades. I drymount a large volume of prints a year and it doesn't take long for the machine to pay itself off. You can also write it off .
I'm sure don't do the volumn that others do, but I have been very happy with the spray adhesive and roller method that Steve mentions.
good luck with your show!!
Sandy R
Posted by Steve Foss on February 26, 2008 at 7:39 PM
I should also clarify. I only use the adhesive and roller on the occasions when for some reason I've had only the print made. With my lab, I can select an option to have the print mounted on foamcore or acid-free matboard, and in all cases, unless the client wants something different, that's what I do. Totally hassle free and perfectly bonded to the mounting medium.
Most labs offer something similar. Mine is White House Custom Color in St. Paul, Minn. www.whcc.com
Since I am very low volume too the spray adhesive seems like a good idea. I use WHCC also and from now on they will do my mounting for large prints. Steve, have you ever used the 2mm styrene board or do you stick with the foam board? Thank all of your for your quick thoughts and suggestions. Also is there a particular brand of type of spray adhesive I should use? I looked up the prices on the dry mount machines and all I can say is WOW!Sandy--I appreciate your show comment.
Posted by Steve Foss on February 27, 2008 at 8:43 AM
Jackie, I stick with the 1/4 inch foamcore unless I need to keep costs down or require a thinner product, in which case I have them mount it on matboard. Spray adhesive from an art supply outlet generally is safe for photographs, but it's worth asking brand you should use. I'm using Elmer's Craft Bond acid-free spray adhesive right now.
Posted by Rob Coomer on February 27, 2008 at 10:42 AM
You can get Crescent Perfect Mount foam core board that already has an acid free adhesive on it. Just peel away part of the backing and apply your photo. Once it is properly positioned, peel away the rest of the backing and burnish down your print.
I use it for all of my images over 16x20. For smaller prints I just hinge mount with acid free artist tape to the backing board.
You can also get large rolls of 3M PMA, which is adhesive in rolls with release paper, sort of giant rolls of double stick tape. You roll it onto your board, burnish it down. Then peel away the backing paper, and then apply and brunish your print. The Perfect Mount is easier and less messy that the PMA or spraying, and no need for a heat press.
Thanks for all of your suggestions, I have learned a lot. Being short on time with no time to order Foam core board, or anything for that matter, I have chosen to spray the elmer adhesive onto the back of smooth thick matt board and mount these photographs this way. The first one I messed up, the other five have turned out beautifully. The mat is acid free and arcival and so is the spray adhesive. As stated, it is a bit messy tho.. I don't like doing it but it is certainly cheaper than paying someone else 30-40 bucks to do it. Guess if you gonna do this you gotta make mistakes to learn.
Discussion
10 replies- Dan.
Once mounted and with the adhesive set, I use a straight-edge and razor cutter to trim away the unwanted foamcore.
I do it this way because I couldn't find a way to hang-mount large prints and avoid that wavey look.
good luck with your show!!
Sandy R
Most labs offer something similar. Mine is White House Custom Color in St. Paul, Minn. www.whcc.com
I use it for all of my images over 16x20. For smaller prints I just hinge mount with acid free artist tape to the backing board.
You can also get large rolls of 3M PMA, which is adhesive in rolls with release paper, sort of giant rolls of double stick tape. You roll it onto your board, burnish it down. Then peel away the backing paper, and then apply and brunish your print. The Perfect Mount is easier and less messy that the PMA or spraying, and no need for a heat press.