Slightly OT..Reference to blending images for DOF

I just read on Marcs post that he blended 2 F13 images to get a better depth of field. I've been using old school F22 theory and always wondered why my images were a little soft in the foreground. Is blending a better way of doing things these days? It seems like I need to blend for exposure as well as DOF in separate sequences..is that right? Also, where can I find a good tutorial on how to do all this? I have CS3 and want to get some better images both exposure and DOF-wise.

As far as "camera craft" goes you can learn good hyperfocal skills by googling for it and finding the plethora of tutorials on the www about it.

Here is one to get ya started:

http://www.vividlight.com/articles/2314.htm

I've never tried doing this post capture so that I will leave to those who have to explain the finer details of that process.

Jack, glad you asked, I was also wondering how Marc blended two images for DOF too. It's a brilliant idea, using the sweet spot and stretching it near and far with two images. How does he think of this stuff??

It's the same concept as blending multiple exposures. I don't have time to go too in depth, but you take two or more shots in the field, focusing at different focal points that will cover the entire DOF needed in the image. You then blend the two images together in photoshop using layer masks and gradient blending or brush blending. The final result uses the sharpest areas from the two images creating a sharp image throughout. That's the beauty of masking, once you know the basic concept you can use it in so many creative ways.

I began experimenting this winter as I used the multiple exposure technique (I don't own GND filters). I had not heard of others doing this, but it occurred to me that since I was making two (or more) exposures to achieve one image, why not focus on the area that I was exposing for? When I exposed for the FG, I also focussed on the FG; an horizon/sky exposure required a longer/infinity focus. Sort of a two for the price of one deal. The blending technique in PS is exactly what Zack wrote above.

One can make this work even for quasi-macro shots: e.g.., a very close flower FG (exposure and focus #1); a definite middle ground (exposure/focus #2); and a BG (exposure and focus #3). I'm not saying this is the best way of doing these things, only what I have found works for me. The blending in PS is pretty straightforward (although tedious) once you have done a few of them. My idea of avoiding GND filters is that I don't want to be carrying a bunch of extra stuff with me into the high mountains this summer (or anytime). A camera, tripod, lens or two and a polarizing filter are enough!! Simple ideas for simple minds...

To me the hardest part of this would be to refocus without moving the camera in the slightest way. Otherwise the images wouldn't align correctly in PS. I use blending all the time with exposures. This is fairly straight forward using built-in camera bracketing. But once you start manually adjusting things there is always the chance for movement to occur. I guess you need a really light touch and and really good tripod/head combo for this to work. Or possibly some alignment software.

Marc, this is exactly what I was looking for...being able to focus and expose at the same time for FG, then middle and then infinity. Now all I have to do is learn the photoshop technique for blending. I've done some basic blends so I'm willing to experiment and search Google for some tutorials. Thanks and thanks for the other inputs as well. One quick followup though. Can I use the various AF points on my camera or I should I use manual focus for each part?

Jack

Jack: I have never manually focussed. My Sony R1, a non-SLR, has a lousy manual focus provision IMO (it's difficult to tell when it's correct) so I always use the AF point.

EDIT: Regarding pin register, don't worry about it. I sometimes must micro-shift one of the exposures one direction or another using the arrows on my keyboard. Just use the Move tool, set the desired (or top) layer to about 50% opacity (so you can see both layers at once) zoom in a bunch, and tap-tap-tap on your arrow keys until the "ghost" image and the solid image are on top of each other. I have found that for some reason my horizons don't always line up and I can make them perfect using this technique. Cheap tripod or something.

Well, I went out and tried this today. I took 3 images...one close, one medium and one infinity. Downloaded a program called Helicon focus and tried to blend the 3 images which the prgram does automatically. It didn't work....A, because it was a little windy and B, I think my focus points still need some work. I feel that blending in photoshop is probably and better option because you have more control over what goes where.

I'm using my auto focus points and after I take the first image, I move the point from 1/3 to middle, take the next shot, then move to 2/3 for final shot. I don't know if this is the right way or not but it's all I have to go with for now...open to suggestions.

Thanks

I remember reading something very brief about Helicon Focus for macro work. Too bad it didn't work right for you. Your diagnosis sounds correct.

Your technique sounds right to me, Jack. If you are combining only two or three images, it probably is worth the extra effort to combine them manually, giving you total control over the process.

I agree with the extra work in PS Marc. I'm gonna look up some tutorials on blending and try it that way. I'm sure the wind played a partial role in this too. Problem in Colorado is we always have wind...lol. Thanks for the encouragement, I appreciate it.

Jack