I have looked into employing Hyperfocal Distance for a year or so now but have never really used it in any of my images. I understand the concept but I was just wondering if it is really worthwhile, or gives you a significant advantage over just letting the Canon AF take over? Typically I compose the image, stop down to f/11-f/16, let AF set the focus and snap away.
The images I get back are in focus but many times I find the very distant background very very soft, not so much out of focus, but just soft. Given Canon's reputation on wide angle lenses I just blamed their inferior glass and went on, but I have always wondered if it was my technique and if I could over come this.
On several occasions I have just MF an image by holding down the DOF preview buttons and focusing until everything looked sharp from foreground to back ground and I got the same result as using AF. Of course I wasnt focusing on the Hyperfocal Distance which might have an impact.
Anyway, my question is (finally) 1) how many of you use Hyperfocal Distance on 35mm formats (you LF guys dont count since you dont have AF) and 2) How exactly do you use the distance scale on Canon's L lenses to focus on the Hyperfocal Distance. I have looked stuff up on the web but the describe how to focus only when you have MF lenses and dont say how to do it when you have only a distance scale.
I only use autofocus to focus on scenes with little depth of field or to focus on a point that I know is somewhere near the hyperfocal distance. I wouldn't rely on AF for scenes with much DOF unless you're telling the camera what point in the scene you want to focus on (most cameras allow you to select from many different focus points). Otherwise, the camera will just focus around the middle of the pic and it's a crap-shoot as to whether the focus will be correct. That being said, I don't carry around a chart or anything with hyperfocal distances. I just focus about twice the distance from the nearest object in the scene and set a small enough aperture to where I'm confident everything will be in focus. Also, keep in mind that you want to focus at hyperfocal distance only for shots where you want everything from the foreground to a distant background to be in focus. For close-up type shots with no distant background, you don't want to focus at hyperfocal distance. Messing around with the DOF calculator at: http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html can give you a better idea of what will be in focus at different camera settings.
Also, while F11-16 will be good for most shots...I tend to use a wider range of aperture settings... F22 or even F32 for scenes with a very close foreground object and a distant object. Or as wide as F1.4 for low-light shots with little DOF.
Okay, I've spent too much time on this forum today! Need to work!
You can find lots of info. right from this very site in this essay by Rod Barbee.
I use the chart there, measure to my hyperfocal point, autofocus and recompose if necessary. Works like a charm for me.
I won't use f stops over f18 any longer as image degradation due to diffraction can become an issue.
More and more folks (myself included) are experimenting with blending images with varied focal lengths with software like Helicon Focus, using layer masks in PS or following the steps outlined in this 'Digital Schleimpflug' tutorial.
I rarely use autofocus, only for close up subjects, or scenes with little DOF as Grant mentioned above. Hyperfocal focusing is a little more time consuming starting out, but once you use charts for a while, you soon learn where the focus points are for each f/stop and focal length on the lens.
I have found hyperfocal focusing to work great for maximising DOF, and particularly for insuring the foreground is as sharp as can be.
Here are 2 websites that maybe useful, both have downloadable charts: http://www.dofmaster.com/charts.html http://www.vividlight.com/articles/2314.htm
Posted by Kalin Wilson on May 22, 2008 at 11:16 PM
I used to rely on autofocus a lot and started to notice that I'd lose foreground or background elements that I wanted in focus. I'd heard of Hyperfocus but never really looked into it. Last year I started reading articles online and printed some charts with DOFMaster. I've noticed an improvement in some situations. Like Grant mentioned, it depends what you want in focus and what DOF you want. Selectively focusing on something is certainly acceptable too. I notice that while focusing at the HF distance will render the distant scene well, it still isn't as sharp as if I'd focused on a far object, but that usually results in a narrow DOF. Shooting with ultra-wide lenses obviates some of the need for worrying about the HF distance since it's usually 1-2 feet or less.
I've also started experimenting with the digital Schleimpflug DOF techniques and that's a viable option for increased DOF in you images if you don't mind a little work.
Overall, it's worth understanding and using. I made and laminated charts for each of my zooms. After awhile you get to where you know the distance for a focal length and aperture. Unfortunately the distance scales on today's lenses aren't very granular, so it's sometimes a guess where you're focused.
This can be a really confusing issue. But I strongly feel that learning this technique can eliminate many problems - depth of field issues, diffraction issues, etc. I use the charts as well, to utilize optimum apertures and to minimize diffraction - which is a factor I care about.
I use these cards: http://www.synvis.com/prod01.htm
(They feature a smaller "circle of confusion" number - which I've heard more than a few suggest that it can be better for big prints/"L" glass.)
I also use a single focus point in my viewfinder for focus confirmation on an object I've picked out in my foreground, which works whether manual or auto focusing. And I've also now discovered the beauty of Live View - along with the DOF preview button. You can used 10x magnification to check your focus while shooting, for anything but really low light situations. Take advantage of Live View if you have it.
Visually estimating your hyperfocal distance is fine. You don't need a tape measure or anything. Focus a little bit beyond the hyperfocal distance if you want to be safe - or stop down once. I only use lens markings to check the focal length.
On the other hand, I happen to believe that not all images require perfect focus from near to far. Sometimes a fuzzy object in the distance can add to the perception of depth - and not always having perfect DOF can be an artistic choice. Even in scenes where you'd think that the close flowers and distance mountains should be sharp - cause it's a "rule".
Thanks all for the comments. I have been wanting to just use MF and hyperfocal distance for a while now, but I have been getting good results using AF and I was always scared of missing a good image because i didnt focus properly. From the sounds of it though that shouldnt be too much of a problem.
Discussion
6 repliesThe images I get back are in focus but many times I find the very distant background very very soft, not so much out of focus, but just soft. Given Canon's reputation on wide angle lenses I just blamed their inferior glass and went on, but I have always wondered if it was my technique and if I could over come this.
On several occasions I have just MF an image by holding down the DOF preview buttons and focusing until everything looked sharp from foreground to back ground and I got the same result as using AF. Of course I wasnt focusing on the Hyperfocal Distance which might have an impact.
Anyway, my question is (finally) 1) how many of you use Hyperfocal Distance on 35mm formats (you LF guys dont count since you dont have AF) and 2) How exactly do you use the distance scale on Canon's L lenses to focus on the Hyperfocal Distance. I have looked stuff up on the web but the describe how to focus only when you have MF lenses and dont say how to do it when you have only a distance scale.
Thanks,
andy
Also, while F11-16 will be good for most shots...I tend to use a wider range of aperture settings... F22 or even F32 for scenes with a very close foreground object and a distant object. Or as wide as F1.4 for low-light shots with little DOF.
Okay, I've spent too much time on this forum today! Need to work!
I use the chart there, measure to my hyperfocal point, autofocus and recompose if necessary. Works like a charm for me.
I won't use f stops over f18 any longer as image degradation due to diffraction can become an issue.
More and more folks (myself included) are experimenting with blending images with varied focal lengths with software like Helicon Focus, using layer masks in PS or following the steps outlined in this 'Digital Schleimpflug' tutorial.
I have found hyperfocal focusing to work great for maximising DOF, and particularly for insuring the foreground is as sharp as can be.
Here are 2 websites that maybe useful, both have downloadable charts:
http://www.dofmaster.com/charts.html
http://www.vividlight.com/articles/2314.htm
I've also started experimenting with the digital Schleimpflug DOF techniques and that's a viable option for increased DOF in you images if you don't mind a little work.
Overall, it's worth understanding and using. I made and laminated charts for each of my zooms. After awhile you get to where you know the distance for a focal length and aperture. Unfortunately the distance scales on today's lenses aren't very granular, so it's sometimes a guess where you're focused.
I use these cards: http://www.synvis.com/prod01.htm
(They feature a smaller "circle of confusion" number - which I've heard more than a few suggest that it can be better for big prints/"L" glass.)
I also use a single focus point in my viewfinder for focus confirmation on an object I've picked out in my foreground, which works whether manual or auto focusing. And I've also now discovered the beauty of Live View - along with the DOF preview button. You can used 10x magnification to check your focus while shooting, for anything but really low light situations. Take advantage of Live View if you have it.
Visually estimating your hyperfocal distance is fine. You don't need a tape measure or anything. Focus a little bit beyond the hyperfocal distance if you want to be safe - or stop down once. I only use lens markings to check the focal length.
On the other hand, I happen to believe that not all images require perfect focus from near to far. Sometimes a fuzzy object in the distance can add to the perception of depth - and not always having perfect DOF can be an artistic choice. Even in scenes where you'd think that the close flowers and distance mountains should be sharp - cause it's a "rule".
Thanks again!
andy