This is a question that people have written books on - it is not a trivial subject.
What are you currently using as a macro setup, if anything?
The most common issues that come to mind are this:
Using a really short focal length (50-75 mm). The problem here is that you create your own shadow and an on-camera flash simply can't illuminate the subject because of a combination of parallax and the shadow created by the lens itself. Get the camera flash off-camera, if need be.
(This paragraph only applies if you are NOT using TTL equipment) Using a completely manual camera, or a completely manual flash. As your magnification increases, you lose light. If you manually metering, you may not be accounting for this.
Are you using exposure compensation for the subject, if appropriate? If that didn't make sense, let us know - this is a tricky subject for new photographers.
How are you processing the images after you shoot them?
Last, try to post one or two images, along with your shooting infomation.
Depending on what you are doing, there are things like ring and macro flashes, but this is beginning to get into some pretty specialized equipment.
This is a question that people have written books on - it is not a trivial subject.
What are you currently using as a macro setup, if anything?
The most common issues that come to mind are this:
Using a really short focal length (50-75 mm). The problem here is that you create your own shadow and an on-camera flash simply can't illuminate the subject because of a combination of parallax and the shadow created by the lens itself. Get the camera flash off-camera, if need be.
(This paragraph only applies if you are NOT using TTL equipment) Using a completely manual camera, or a completely manual flash. As your magnification increases, you lose light. If you manually metering, you may not be accounting for this.
Are you using exposure compensation for the subject, if appropriate? If that didn't make sense, let us know - this is a tricky subject for new photographers.
How are you processing the images after you shoot them?
Last, try to post one or two images, along with your shooting infomation.
Depending on what you are doing, there are things like ring and macro flashes, but this is beginning to get into some pretty specialized equipment.
My camera is a Nikon D80. I have a 18 - 200mm lens, 70 - 300m and a 2x convertor. I would like to get pictures of insects and butterflies, if I can. I like to try out new things. Just a thought. Thanks for your information.
I frequently use my 300mm lens with a 2x converter to take pictures of butterflies. This allows me to stay far enough away from them and still get the shot. I haven't been using a flash just natural light. Yesterday for example, I had my 150 macro lens and the combination mentioned above and used the 300mm combination the most of my shots over a three hour period standing in about the same spot.
That combination should work well for butterflies. Good working distance so your own/your equipment 's shadow is a nonissue. Modern camera as well with a very good reputation.
The only thing I might hesitate would be using the convertor on the zooms. Test the combinations for fit and image quality.
For larger insects, that combination should also work well. Once you get down to leafhoppers, you might want to consider other options, such as extension tubes, multi-element diopters and dedicated macro lenses (in some vague order of cost - the macro lens option is not cheap, but the others are around $100). I'd probably look at the diopter first.
Do you have a hot-shoe mounted flash? If so, consider getting a cord for it so you can move the flash off-camera and closer to your subject from a different angle. That might account for some the lighting you like.
And practice, practice, practice. I tend to specialize in macro (feel free to e-mail me with questions) and consider a great day a mere 80% failure rate with insects and macro.
I've really got to start writing this stuff up more formally...
Discussion
5 repliesThis is a question that people have written books on - it is not a trivial subject.
What are you currently using as a macro setup, if anything?
The most common issues that come to mind are this:
Using a really short focal length (50-75 mm). The problem here is that you create your own shadow and an on-camera flash simply can't illuminate the subject because of a combination of parallax and the shadow created by the lens itself. Get the camera flash off-camera, if need be.
(This paragraph only applies if you are NOT using TTL equipment) Using a completely manual camera, or a completely manual flash. As your magnification increases, you lose light. If you manually metering, you may not be accounting for this.
Are you using exposure compensation for the subject, if appropriate? If that didn't make sense, let us know - this is a tricky subject for new photographers.
How are you processing the images after you shoot them?
Last, try to post one or two images, along with your shooting infomation.
Depending on what you are doing, there are things like ring and macro flashes, but this is beginning to get into some pretty specialized equipment.
This is a question that people have written books on - it is not a trivial subject.
What are you currently using as a macro setup, if anything?
The most common issues that come to mind are this:
Using a really short focal length (50-75 mm). The problem here is that you create your own shadow and an on-camera flash simply can't illuminate the subject because of a combination of parallax and the shadow created by the lens itself. Get the camera flash off-camera, if need be.
(This paragraph only applies if you are NOT using TTL equipment) Using a completely manual camera, or a completely manual flash. As your magnification increases, you lose light. If you manually metering, you may not be accounting for this.
Are you using exposure compensation for the subject, if appropriate? If that didn't make sense, let us know - this is a tricky subject for new photographers.
How are you processing the images after you shoot them?
Last, try to post one or two images, along with your shooting infomation.
Depending on what you are doing, there are things like ring and macro flashes, but this is beginning to get into some pretty specialized equipment.
The only thing I might hesitate would be using the convertor on the zooms. Test the combinations for fit and image quality.
For larger insects, that combination should also work well. Once you get down to leafhoppers, you might want to consider other options, such as extension tubes, multi-element diopters and dedicated macro lenses (in some vague order of cost - the macro lens option is not cheap, but the others are around $100). I'd probably look at the diopter first.
Do you have a hot-shoe mounted flash? If so, consider getting a cord for it so you can move the flash off-camera and closer to your subject from a different angle. That might account for some the lighting you like.
And practice, practice, practice. I tend to specialize in macro (feel free to e-mail me with questions) and consider a great day a mere 80% failure rate with insects and macro.
I've really got to start writing this stuff up more formally...