Hi everyone,
I hope some of you can help me with advice and tips to eliminate vibrations when using a tripod !!
Even with a locked miror and timer, i often have trouble with it!!
I use a Canon 40D
Tripod : Manfrotto O55MF4 magfiber
Head :Manfrotto 468MGRC4
I am very grateful for your help!!
From what I have been able to read it looks like you have a solid setup. You might try adding some weight to the center column if it has one or attachin a rock bag to it by the leg supports. If you have trouble all the time then I would think it might be the setup and if you have a center column do you extend it? If you do this might be the source of your problem as when you extend this you get lots of movement so I suggest not extending this or very little. You might also think about getting a Remote Switch RS-80N3 that is a Canon for a 40D. This will help as you will not have to touch the camera. Also does it happen with all lenses as the bigger the lense the heavier the tripod needs to be. You might try a few of these and see if it helps but I do really suggest adding a remote if you do not have one.
Which lens are you using?
Does your tripod have rubber feet or spikes?
Does the vibration occur everytime you use the tripod?
Do you actually see the vibration in the field?
Do your images show movement (camera shake) or are they simply not sharp?
I often use a self timer if the ground around me is rock solid, but a remote switch is always a good idea to own anyway. There's no need to spend extra $$$ for the Canon switch when there are numerous 3rd party switches that work just as well at a fraction of the cost (e.g. this switch for $10 at eBay).
Thank you very much Dennis,I do not use the center column, i did forget to mention that i use a Canon 70-200 F4 lens and i switch of the image stabilizer !!
The remote switch is a good sugestion , but i would like to be sure that this solve the problem because the european price for this smal thing gets close to that of a 24 carat gold one, !!
I do apreciate your sugestions very much, and i wil try them out
Hi John,they simply are not sharp, but the strange thing is when i hold the camera with my hands on the tripod and put some presure on it, the image looks clearly more sharp, thats why i concluded vibration must be the cause !! the tripod has rubber feet,the lens is a Canon 70-200 F4 IS and i switch of the image stabiliser!!, thank for asking more details !!,hope you can understand my poor english explenation
Posted by Pat Sampson on July 19, 2008 at 12:26 PM
Etienne,
As I recall this topic came up on the avian gallery a year or so ago. Based on that conversation I've since taken the position that I get the sharpest images by using a tripod, letting my camera and lens rest in a position that doesn't involve my needing to nudge the rig one way or another and then applying enough pressure to the top of the camera/lens combo to reduce vibration from wind. I've also used the same approach with a bean bag. Using this approach i've made images using dual teleconverters with a 500 mm lens and still have been stable enough to get a reasonably sharp image per the critiques I've received on this site. I guess where I'm at on this, is that i get my sharpest images by treating the camera/lens exactly the same way I'd treat a rifle. Let it rest naturally, apply enough pressure to dampen movement and vibration and gently squeeze the shutter release, leaving my finger on the release until I hear the closing click. I will say I've never used this technique for more than about a 5 second exposure and that may make a difference. That's my two cents worth on tripod/bean bag technique.
I have experienced the same problem at times as well shooting long exposures of water. I would agree that adding weight and using a remote release may be your answer. Make up a pouch with a drawstring and when you get to the photo site fill it with rocks and hang it from the center of the tripod. Hopes this cures the shakes--Larry
Thanks very much Pat and Lary, i get the meaning of your comments, these are very usable methods Kindest regards !
Posted by Scott Fricke on July 20, 2008 at 1:24 AM
Another solution to save you the cost of the remote is to use the 2 or 10 second timer feature. This will eliminate any movement caused by pressing the shutter release. Works great for landscape photography, not real great for shooting wildlife.
Hi Etienne, I sometimes also get blurred images when using a tripod. Usually I always could identify that the problem was on my side: I either simply missed the proper focus. Or there was still some shake as I pressed the (remote)-shutter. Sometimes, when it is windy and I shoot with the extended center column I never get sharp shots. I would really recommend that you use a cable release. This enables you to wait after you pressed the shutter for the first time. You can wait until every movement is dampened and then press again to record the image. Sometimes this dampening might take longer than you expect.
It should be possible to get sharp shots with your set-up. I now use a Velbon Sherpa Pro 545 and a Velbon QHD-61Q Ball head. My whole tripod setup is intended to be fast and light. Before that I has a crappy 30Euro alu-plastic tripod for my 5D. It still was possible to get sharp shots. My suspicion is that you click the shutter too early, while there is still some shaking. I can't think of anything else.
At least with my Olympus E-3, it recommends NOT using IS with a tripod. Don't know if that owuld be true with your rig or not...
Posted by Dan Baumbach on July 21, 2008 at 10:31 AM
I've had blurry photos with my Nikon when I didn't use the remote electronic release and never when I did. They're expensive but worth it in saved images.
- Dan .
Posted by Larry Puckett on July 21, 2008 at 10:44 AM
I think the IS issue depends on the manufacturer and the generation of the software/hardware. Some early IS systems apparently would shimmy and shake when left on when used on a tripod however some of the newer generation software detects when the lens is stationary and shuts shuts down accordingly. If in doubt about your lens IS system it probably is a good idea just to shut it off.
Best way to eliminate shake (IMHO) is to use mirror lock and a remote release allowing sufficient time for the shake to dampen after the mirror lock is activated before taking the photo. Also with lightweight tripods adding weight using a heavy beanbag or a pouch filled with rocks or something else at the site helps. Finally avoid using an extended center column--Larry
Discussion
13 repliesI hope some of you can help me with advice and tips to eliminate vibrations when using a tripod !!
Even with a locked miror and timer, i often have trouble with it!!
I use a Canon 40D
Tripod : Manfrotto O55MF4 magfiber
Head :Manfrotto 468MGRC4
I am very grateful for your help!!
Does your tripod have rubber feet or spikes?
Does the vibration occur everytime you use the tripod?
Do you actually see the vibration in the field?
Do your images show movement (camera shake) or are they simply not sharp?
I often use a self timer if the ground around me is rock solid, but a remote switch is always a good idea to own anyway. There's no need to spend extra $$$ for the Canon switch when there are numerous 3rd party switches that work just as well at a fraction of the cost (e.g. this switch for $10 at eBay).
The remote switch is a good sugestion , but i would like to be sure that this solve the problem because the european price for this smal thing gets close to that of a 24 carat gold one, !!
I do apreciate your sugestions very much, and i wil try them out
As I recall this topic came up on the avian gallery a year or so ago. Based on that conversation I've since taken the position that I get the sharpest images by using a tripod, letting my camera and lens rest in a position that doesn't involve my needing to nudge the rig one way or another and then applying enough pressure to the top of the camera/lens combo to reduce vibration from wind. I've also used the same approach with a bean bag. Using this approach i've made images using dual teleconverters with a 500 mm lens and still have been stable enough to get a reasonably sharp image per the critiques I've received on this site. I guess where I'm at on this, is that i get my sharpest images by treating the camera/lens exactly the same way I'd treat a rifle. Let it rest naturally, apply enough pressure to dampen movement and vibration and gently squeeze the shutter release, leaving my finger on the release until I hear the closing click. I will say I've never used this technique for more than about a 5 second exposure and that may make a difference. That's my two cents worth on tripod/bean bag technique.
Regards,
Pat
It should be possible to get sharp shots with your set-up. I now use a Velbon Sherpa Pro 545 and a Velbon QHD-61Q Ball head. My whole tripod setup is intended to be fast and light. Before that I has a crappy 30Euro alu-plastic tripod for my 5D. It still was possible to get sharp shots. My suspicion is that you click the shutter too early, while there is still some shaking. I can't think of anything else.
- Dan .
Best way to eliminate shake (IMHO) is to use mirror lock and a remote release allowing sufficient time for the shake to dampen after the mirror lock is activated before taking the photo. Also with lightweight tripods adding weight using a heavy beanbag or a pouch filled with rocks or something else at the site helps. Finally avoid using an extended center column--Larry