Posted by Mark Jenkins on August 16, 2008 at 10:59 PM
I recently purchased the Helicon Focus software which enables you to blend several images taken at different focal planes into one image with an increased DOF. I took several images of a scene by putting my camera on a tripod and turning the focusing ring to a different plane and taking an image. I was disappointed in the quality of the final image which was soft through out. My question is is there a difference in the images between rotating the focusing ring on the lens as I did leaving the camera in one location and the images I could have produced had I had a rail where I moved the camera and lens together to produce each focal plane? Has anyone had experience with this software? Thanks for any help.
I use the software and have been happy with it. Here's my thoughts:
1. Make sure your subject is completely still...absolutely no movement. If there is movement, your image registration will be off and there most likely will be softness. This typically means shooting when there is no wind - sometimes easier said than done!
2. Small steps of difference in focus work best. Rather than guesstimating how many different focal points you'll need, start at one end and work to the other in very small increments. Depending on your magnification, you may need quite a few shots to render what you want with absolute clarity. Most of my images require at least 7 it seems.
3. Don't worry about using a focusing rail. The images will automatically be resized to match one another (and a rail wouldn't change that issue). Thus, you will need to compose with the focus at the "tightest" point. I personally use a tripod mounted dSLR and an extension tube mounted zoom lens; to change my focus point, I just rotate the zoom rather than the manual focus ring. I do this because the zoom has a wider potential range of movement and the end result is identical.
Best of luck!
Posted by Mark Jenkins on August 17, 2008 at 8:13 AM
Joel, thanks very much for responding to my question. It sounds as if your technique will work nicely. My problem is most of my macro shots are done with the Nikon 200mm f/4 macro lens which is not a zoom. Do you have any additional comments?
The majority of the images I've processed with HF have been taken with the same Nikkor 200mm f/4 macro that you mentioned, so it's definitely doable. This image was produced using Helicon Focus--a combination of roughly 20 frames. Joel's advice is good--it's critical that there be no subject movement and that you produce a sufficient number limited focus adjustment frames to give HF enough data to work with. I'd suggest experimenting with some controlled settings--indoors, no wind--to gather experience as to what you need to do when in the field working under more challenging conditions.
Posted by Mark Kraus on August 17, 2008 at 2:07 PM
Ditto, to what the other folks said about movement. Your technique has to be near perfect. Use a good tripod and head, cable release and mirror lock up it you have it. And depending on the subject a Plamp may help keep down movement. I use a Sigma 180 macro and a Nikon 300mm f4 with great results when conditions are right (no wind).
Mark K
As the others have mentioned, a zoom isn't necessary at all. I only mentioned it because I've found it useful to increase the potential range of focus beyond what typical internal lens focusing can provide - read: a crazy work around that I came up with on my own. Unless the magnification is very high, it shouldn't be an issue whatsoever. Hopefully that helps, sorry for any confusion!
Posted by Pat Sampson on August 26, 2008 at 9:32 PM
Mark,
I shoot HF fairly frequently for flora shots and think I get fairly sharp images with it. I use a Canon 180mm on a light tripod and lean on the camera as I adjust the focus ring. I shoot anywhere from 10 to 15 images this way, cull some and usually make the composite from what I think were the 10 best. (Arbitrary number) I throw a lot of these away because of wind and I can easily spend thirty minutes trying to get a series without movement. I'm also not afraid to go into photoshop and clone where I think it helps the image quality. I really like HF and have been lucky enough to have two of them selected for EPs. It's a great way to get that extra dof. It also feels a lot like target shooting and I enjoy that aspect of it. I'd like to try a rail at some point but I certainly don't think it's a necessity.
Discussion
6 replies1. Make sure your subject is completely still...absolutely no movement. If there is movement, your image registration will be off and there most likely will be softness. This typically means shooting when there is no wind - sometimes easier said than done!
2. Small steps of difference in focus work best. Rather than guesstimating how many different focal points you'll need, start at one end and work to the other in very small increments. Depending on your magnification, you may need quite a few shots to render what you want with absolute clarity. Most of my images require at least 7 it seems.
3. Don't worry about using a focusing rail. The images will automatically be resized to match one another (and a rail wouldn't change that issue). Thus, you will need to compose with the focus at the "tightest" point. I personally use a tripod mounted dSLR and an extension tube mounted zoom lens; to change my focus point, I just rotate the zoom rather than the manual focus ring. I do this because the zoom has a wider potential range of movement and the end result is identical.
Best of luck!
Mark K
I shoot HF fairly frequently for flora shots and think I get fairly sharp images with it. I use a Canon 180mm on a light tripod and lean on the camera as I adjust the focus ring. I shoot anywhere from 10 to 15 images this way, cull some and usually make the composite from what I think were the 10 best. (Arbitrary number) I throw a lot of these away because of wind and I can easily spend thirty minutes trying to get a series without movement. I'm also not afraid to go into photoshop and clone where I think it helps the image quality. I really like HF and have been lucky enough to have two of them selected for EPs. It's a great way to get that extra dof. It also feels a lot like target shooting and I enjoy that aspect of it. I'd like to try a rail at some point but I certainly don't think it's a necessity.
Pat