I was wondering how you decide where in the scene to focus to maximize dof for the aperture selected. I have heard about hyper focal distance, but know nothing about it. Generally I just compose my scene and then use auto focus with the small focus pattern. I then just use my aperture preview to check dof. Lately, I have recieved some prints that were disapointing for sharpness and detail. Some area around the edges, and in the corners are not very sharp, or just plain wierd looking. It could be partially my lense. An 18-70 3.5/4.5. It is not a very expensive lense though it gets good reviews. I figure investing in a nicer fixed 2.8 lense would render better edge to edge sharpness. For now, if I'm not using hyperfocal distance to set the focus distance, what's the best way?
Thanks for the help,
Chris
Posted by Andreas Resch on August 25, 2008 at 6:00 AM
Hello Chris!
I honestly focus dpending on the situation. Mostly I focus at some point in the middle of the image - maybe 50 to 100 feet away. If the foreground is important I sometimes use my hyperfocal chart that I carry with me (link below) or I use the little program I have got on my cellphone (link also below).
You should google for "hyperfocal distance" and you'll have a lot of interesting stuff to read.
Cellphone software - http://www.curved-light.net/software/ (for other cellphone brands you might want to search the internet - there are more out there)
Hyperfocal chart - http://www.dofmaster.com/
Cheers ... Andreas.
Posted by John Mumaw on August 25, 2008 at 7:04 AM
There is some good info. on this at a recent thread in the RMNP forum, including links to hyperfocal charts.
Chris, You might like to check out this website. www.dofmaster.com/
It has charts and a version that you can download for pda's.
It is self-explanatory and useful.
Take a look at it...maybe what you need.
Let me know if I can help.
Dave Bartlett
www.dave@redpixelmontage.com
Frankly Chris, point of focus is one of my most important "brackets." I'm fairly confident in my exposures while still bracketing a little there, but as time allows I ALWAYS bracket my focus point, picking different spots within the foreground, especially when working at more open apertures. I just can't see enough detail through the viewfinder using the preview button, and my "guesstimates" of distance are never good enough to rely on hyperfocal scales.
And here's an "insight from hindsight," to coin a phrase:
I do my focus point brackets fairly systematically starting with some closest point in the foreground and working back through toward the middleground. I'll usually tell myself that I've got a pretty good idea which will turn out to be best once I view the image on a large screen, but I'm often fooled.
In my case anyway, there's usually more latitude in the closest foreground than I think, and my first bracket drops the horizon out of focus. My second bracket further back in the scene usually keeps the immediate foreground in focus while picking up the horizon. And my last bracket is likely to drop out the foreground while needlessly shifting the focus toward the horizon. Therefore I'm kind of shifting my selection of focus points a little further back into the scene than intuition tells me I should.
Your eye for distance and results will almost certainly differ from mine, but systematic bracketing of focus points and careful study of the results should go a long ways toward developing your own system- which is likely to use neither a hyperfocal scale nor the camera's preview button. But I bet you keep the bracketing procedure!
Posted by Pat Warfield on August 25, 2008 at 3:06 PM
Chris, back in the medium/large format film days, & before autofocus, I did a lot of industrial scenic landscapes. That is large machinery or facilities located in a scenic setting. A bright day with sunlight angled on subject. (Manuel bracket) By using f/22 - f/32 & focussing near on interesting foreground for one shot, then another shot focussed into the middle area, maybe a 3rd shot focussed on the machinery or subject near the horizon, I was able to get sharpness that seemed natural & could choose best composition. I like foreground interests & they don't work if out of focus. Usually the near focussed frame was the best. This is easy to do if you use a tripod. With autofocus we have to override some functions or just use manuel for critical shots. Also relied upon polarizers to extend 'the good-light time-frame'.
Now days if I shoot on a tripod & vary the distances, I stack varied shots together & erase the 'out of focus areas' .
Thank you again. There's some good suggestions and information here. I never thought to bracket for focus, that's a great idea. I think I will try to learn about hyperfocal distance as well. Having a chart can't be a bad thing. Mostly, I think I need to approach thing a little more slowly, and more meticulously.
"Having a chart can't be a bad thing. Mostly, I think I need to approach thing a little more slowly, and more meticulously."
The charts are really useful for learning what to expect. I carried them in the field for a while, but got tired of chasing them across the landscape on windy days. By then I had a fair feel for what to expect. I imagine you'll go through the same cycle. As for slowing down, good luck. Enthusiasm is what it's all about, and don't lose it! But the meticulous part......ah........there's the rub. Knowing when to let things slide and when to stick around is a learning process. Frankly I do most of my learning and forehead slapping once I get back at home and download. It sure affects how I shoot the next time out, but I'm not going to sit and ponder too long while I'm out in the wilds.
Discussion
7 repliesThanks for the help,
Chris
I honestly focus dpending on the situation. Mostly I focus at some point in the middle of the image - maybe 50 to 100 feet away. If the foreground is important I sometimes use my hyperfocal chart that I carry with me (link below) or I use the little program I have got on my cellphone (link also below).
You should google for "hyperfocal distance" and you'll have a lot of interesting stuff to read.
Cellphone software - http://www.curved-light.net/software/ (for other cellphone brands you might want to search the internet - there are more out there)
Hyperfocal chart - http://www.dofmaster.com/
Cheers ... Andreas.
It has charts and a version that you can download for pda's.
It is self-explanatory and useful.
Take a look at it...maybe what you need.
Let me know if I can help.
Dave Bartlett
www.dave@redpixelmontage.com
And here's an "insight from hindsight," to coin a phrase:
I do my focus point brackets fairly systematically starting with some closest point in the foreground and working back through toward the middleground. I'll usually tell myself that I've got a pretty good idea which will turn out to be best once I view the image on a large screen, but I'm often fooled.
In my case anyway, there's usually more latitude in the closest foreground than I think, and my first bracket drops the horizon out of focus. My second bracket further back in the scene usually keeps the immediate foreground in focus while picking up the horizon. And my last bracket is likely to drop out the foreground while needlessly shifting the focus toward the horizon. Therefore I'm kind of shifting my selection of focus points a little further back into the scene than intuition tells me I should.
Your eye for distance and results will almost certainly differ from mine, but systematic bracketing of focus points and careful study of the results should go a long ways toward developing your own system- which is likely to use neither a hyperfocal scale nor the camera's preview button. But I bet you keep the bracketing procedure!
Now days if I shoot on a tripod & vary the distances, I stack varied shots together & erase the 'out of focus areas' .
Pat Warfield
Thanks again,
Chris
The charts are really useful for learning what to expect. I carried them in the field for a while, but got tired of chasing them across the landscape on windy days. By then I had a fair feel for what to expect. I imagine you'll go through the same cycle. As for slowing down, good luck. Enthusiasm is what it's all about, and don't lose it! But the meticulous part......ah........there's the rub. Knowing when to let things slide and when to stick around is a learning process. Frankly I do most of my learning and forehead slapping once I get back at home and download. It sure affects how I shoot the next time out, but I'm not going to sit and ponder too long while I'm out in the wilds.