In addition to common sense panning, what other equipment, techniques and settings do you suggest for birds in flight. I will be using a Canon 40D, 100-400 IS lens and 1.4 extender, also own a 500 lens and a Wimberly head which is just too heavy for me to carry around. Whenever I use an ISO larger than 200 on the Canon 20D or 40D I get too much noise to use the photo and lots of what I call "if only" shots (as shown above). Once in a while I get lucky with acceptable sharpness.
I have a couple of bird shoots coming up and really could use some help. Thanks in advance.
Posted by Keith Bauer on October 9, 2008 at 10:46 AM
Hi Patricia:
Birds in flight are certainly a difficult task. A couple of thoughts. Using a 1.4x extender on the 100-400 will disable autofocus on the 20d/40d since it becomes an f/8 lens when zoomed to 400mm. Clearly that adds additional problems. Make sure you are using AI Servo as the autofocus mode. The above shot looks like it suffers from motion blur as much as focus. Using the fastest shutter speed possible should help. On the 20D, noise can become an issue, but for me it begins at ISO 800. I don't own the 40D, but believe it to be much more capable of cleaner images at higher ISO settings. I am also a huge fan of using "back button" focusing. On either your 20d or 40d you can set a custom function to use the "star" button to activate focusing. I'll admit it takes a little getting used to, but I'm convinced it has helped my accuracy in getting flight shots. I track the bird in the view finder, then "bump" focus when it is on the focus sensor. That means I activate AF, follow, shoot, release, folllow, shoot, release, etc. I've found this to be very effective. The problem with holding the focus down all the time tends to be if you don't keep the bird on a sensor, AF will begin to hunt in the blue sky and we all know how well that works. I'm sure you'll get some more responses from some of the top notch flight photographers here. Hope my thoughts add some value.
Posted by John Reed on October 9, 2008 at 12:55 PM
Patricia,
I concur with Keith about the 1.4x on the 100-400...just NOT a good idea...manual focus plus loss of a stop of light. The 1.4 is killer on the 500 f/4 and if you have a Wimberly head, that tells me you're on a tripod so the weight should not be an issue. Of course, you do have to carry everything to where you want to go, but you paid big bucks for it, so you might as well use it :-) !! I had a 20D and could easily go to ISO 400 with no noise so that puzzles me too. I shoot mostly with a 1D MkIII now but I do have a 40D that I use for the extra "reach" afforded by the 1.6 crop factor. This body easily goes to ISO 800 without noise and even 1600 with "acceptable" noise. If yours is not, you may wish to have it checked to be sure there is no problem. Another possibility is that perhaps you are consistently underexposing. Noise shows up more when underexposed images have to be corrected. If you're trying to squeeze out the max shutter speed, underexposing is a common experience. My suggestion to you if the 500 combo is just too darn heavy is to stick with the 100-400 and have fun. Remember, on the 40D that's actually like a 160-640 and that's pretty darn good reach. As to focus, I'm a bit of a weirdo in that I actually do better with one shot rather than servo but most people I know do have better luck with servo so I'd go along with Keith there. Only other thing I can think of is to try shooting on manual if the light is consistent and allows it. Meter a gray card or neutral subject, set your exposure based on that and then blast away. If you use Av or Tv, your meter will be thrown off by the large amount of lighter sky and underexpose the image. Then when you correct that in the computer, you get the noise. Good luck.
I've struggled with this problem alot too. I use a Nikon D300 and have found that about the only way I can get good sharpness is keeping the shutter speed high. I bump up the ISO and then try to clean it up as best I can in PhotoShop with Imaginomic Noiseware filter. I've sometimes added a layer and painted over some of the bad noise with a brush. This works good for the sky, but feathers and detail take a lot more work.
I use the back button focus like Keith and it works better than trying to focus with the shutter release button.
I've had some success with using manual focus rather than auto to follow a bird in flight. Then you don't get that awful bzzz as everything looses focus when the object leaves the focus plane. It takes some practice and developing some new muscles for holding the camera by the lens while you manipulate the focus ring. Then, it still takes bit of LUCK!
Posted by Keith Bauer on October 9, 2008 at 2:27 PM
Joseph: You asked about back button focus. See you owners manual. On the 20D it is custom function 4. I don't know what it may be on the 40D. It references the AE/AF function of the "star" button. As far as info on "bump focus", I learned about it from folks in the field. There may be some info on the web. Check out Jim Neiger's flight school info as a possible source.
You can see the problems that I have not learned to overcome because of the lack of light at dawn. I really would like to get away with my 400 mm 5.6 some it proves to rough to get great shots. In later light I have no problems.
Posted by Steve Sieren on October 9, 2008 at 6:05 PM
Check your histogram to make sure you're not underexposing. Anything underexposed will increase the possibility of noise even at 200. Your hilights should be as far to the right w/ out losing detail or at to the point of recovery w post processing. If you master this you will have less problems and will be able to use higher iso's. You should be using the 40D only because it has a higher dynamic range from highlight to shadows. Good luck!
Posted by James Hersey on October 10, 2008 at 7:42 AM
That seems like a lot of lens for flight shots for me. I had been shooting flight with old manual focus system with a 400 5.6. After autofocus I started with a 1.6 crop factor camera like you I found a 300mm f4 is worked best for me. Easy to carry and kayak with close to the 400 I had been using and still autofocus with a 1.4 which gives you a 5.6. I did take a lot more with digital than with film because there are a lot of almosts in flight images or at least for me so the digital cost savings was great. I know if you can get setup and have a regular filght path the 500 even with a 1.4 is possible but I never shot very much w a 500 on flight and the 1.6 crop factor. As you practice you will increase your winners over losers but I don't know of anyone that shoots more winners than losers especially in bird flight shots. I do only have one flight image I think one page three of my portfolio.
Last night I finally tried to and did use the Custom Functions on the 40D. My pictures were somewhat better though I haven't had the time to spend on them yet because I wanted to get back to you and thank you for your help.
The new cameras have so many function available to us that it can be confusing. There are a few combinations that I want to master because I can see where they would be to my advantage.
And James, thanks for chiming in with your insights.
Shooting BIF is very exhilarating!
Posted by Richard Hahn on October 10, 2008 at 3:14 PM
Patricia,
Good afternoon. I do not have the 100 - 400 but do have the 300 4L IS lens. On my lens there is a toggle switch, # 1 is for stationary & # 2 is for moving subjects. Maybe your lens has the same? Just a suggestion & not meant to question your common sense.
Posted by Wayne Nicholas on November 12, 2008 at 4:00 PM
Hi Patricia,
This CF setting will help.
C.Fn IV Operation / Others
C.Fn IV -1
3. AE lock / Metering + AF Stop
This will move the focus to the * (star) button on the top, right rear corner of the camera. The exposure is handled by the shutter button.
Place your focus point on the center sensor to ensure best focus; start tracking your subject early to get focus on it, compose it in the frame, and to eliminate a start / stop motion. Your camera should be set on low or high speed drive. As your subject enters the area where you wish to expose the image, squeeze down the shutter button. Even after the last frame, it is imperative to continue to track your subject for 1-2 seconds for smooth motion.
It is also best to use manual meter in a flight situation, based on the exposure of the subject. This keeps the exposure settings from changing as the BG changes while you move. Practice on common birds like gulls, which make easy targets. If no practice birds are available, try tracking cars for practice.
Good luck.
Feel free to send me an email if you still have questions.
Discussion
15 repliesI have a couple of bird shoots coming up and really could use some help. Thanks in advance.
Birds in flight are certainly a difficult task. A couple of thoughts. Using a 1.4x extender on the 100-400 will disable autofocus on the 20d/40d since it becomes an f/8 lens when zoomed to 400mm. Clearly that adds additional problems. Make sure you are using AI Servo as the autofocus mode. The above shot looks like it suffers from motion blur as much as focus. Using the fastest shutter speed possible should help. On the 20D, noise can become an issue, but for me it begins at ISO 800. I don't own the 40D, but believe it to be much more capable of cleaner images at higher ISO settings. I am also a huge fan of using "back button" focusing. On either your 20d or 40d you can set a custom function to use the "star" button to activate focusing. I'll admit it takes a little getting used to, but I'm convinced it has helped my accuracy in getting flight shots. I track the bird in the view finder, then "bump" focus when it is on the focus sensor. That means I activate AF, follow, shoot, release, folllow, shoot, release, etc. I've found this to be very effective. The problem with holding the focus down all the time tends to be if you don't keep the bird on a sensor, AF will begin to hunt in the blue sky and we all know how well that works. I'm sure you'll get some more responses from some of the top notch flight photographers here. Hope my thoughts add some value.
I concur with Keith about the 1.4x on the 100-400...just NOT a good idea...manual focus plus loss of a stop of light. The 1.4 is killer on the 500 f/4 and if you have a Wimberly head, that tells me you're on a tripod so the weight should not be an issue. Of course, you do have to carry everything to where you want to go, but you paid big bucks for it, so you might as well use it :-) !! I had a 20D and could easily go to ISO 400 with no noise so that puzzles me too. I shoot mostly with a 1D MkIII now but I do have a 40D that I use for the extra "reach" afforded by the 1.6 crop factor. This body easily goes to ISO 800 without noise and even 1600 with "acceptable" noise. If yours is not, you may wish to have it checked to be sure there is no problem. Another possibility is that perhaps you are consistently underexposing. Noise shows up more when underexposed images have to be corrected. If you're trying to squeeze out the max shutter speed, underexposing is a common experience. My suggestion to you if the 500 combo is just too darn heavy is to stick with the 100-400 and have fun. Remember, on the 40D that's actually like a 160-640 and that's pretty darn good reach. As to focus, I'm a bit of a weirdo in that I actually do better with one shot rather than servo but most people I know do have better luck with servo so I'd go along with Keith there. Only other thing I can think of is to try shooting on manual if the light is consistent and allows it. Meter a gray card or neutral subject, set your exposure based on that and then blast away. If you use Av or Tv, your meter will be thrown off by the large amount of lighter sky and underexpose the image. Then when you correct that in the computer, you get the noise. Good luck.
Where may I read more about "back button" - "bump focus" technique??
I shoot a 40 D. My problem is morning light and trying to get the Canada goose as he goes to feed for the day.
I have found the Bush Hawk easier for me then a mono pod or tripod. I can see where next year may be an expensive year for me!!
I use the back button focus like Keith and it works better than trying to focus with the shutter release button.
I've had some success with using manual focus rather than auto to follow a bird in flight. Then you don't get that awful bzzz as everything looses focus when the object leaves the focus plane. It takes some practice and developing some new muscles for holding the camera by the lens while you manipulate the focus ring. Then, it still takes bit of LUCK!
I'm also very not computer savvy. I want to post a picture from this morning and can't figure out how to do it.
I really just want to post the picture to this page.
I want you all to know that I appreciate the replies. I can't see the forest for the forest!! In other words I'm dense.
http://picasaweb.google.com/martines34/BIF10908408PM#
C & C are most welcome.
You can see the problems that I have not learned to overcome because of the lack of light at dawn. I really would like to get away with my 400 mm 5.6 some it proves to rough to get great shots. In later light I have no problems.
Thanks for your insight and prodding.
Last night I finally tried to and did use the Custom Functions on the 40D. My pictures were somewhat better though I haven't had the time to spend on them yet because I wanted to get back to you and thank you for your help.
The new cameras have so many function available to us that it can be confusing. There are a few combinations that I want to master because I can see where they would be to my advantage.
And James, thanks for chiming in with your insights.
Shooting BIF is very exhilarating!
Good afternoon. I do not have the 100 - 400 but do have the 300 4L IS lens. On my lens there is a toggle switch, # 1 is for stationary & # 2 is for moving subjects. Maybe your lens has the same? Just a suggestion & not meant to question your common sense.
Good afternoon. If you go to the following article you will see that it may be of some assistance.
http://www.popphoto.com/howto/5464/how-to-catch-birds-in-their-element.html
Good afternoon. If you go to the following article you will see that it may be of some assistance.
http://www.popphoto.com/howto/5464/how-to-catch-birds-in-their-element.html
This CF setting will help.
C.Fn IV Operation / Others
C.Fn IV -1
3. AE lock / Metering + AF Stop
This will move the focus to the * (star) button on the top, right rear corner of the camera. The exposure is handled by the shutter button.
Place your focus point on the center sensor to ensure best focus; start tracking your subject early to get focus on it, compose it in the frame, and to eliminate a start / stop motion. Your camera should be set on low or high speed drive. As your subject enters the area where you wish to expose the image, squeeze down the shutter button. Even after the last frame, it is imperative to continue to track your subject for 1-2 seconds for smooth motion.
It is also best to use manual meter in a flight situation, based on the exposure of the subject. This keeps the exposure settings from changing as the BG changes while you move. Practice on common birds like gulls, which make easy targets. If no practice birds are available, try tracking cars for practice.
Good luck.
Feel free to send me an email if you still have questions.