Posted by IAN RIPPEY on October 29, 2008 at 9:00 AM
I am looking for a "new" camera, well actually probably a good 2nd hand one. The following (probably incompatible) characteristics are:
ESSENTIAL
Digital SLR with interchangeable lenses; capable of good close-ups, to at least 0.5 or preferably at least life size
Excellent resolution, so that there is little visible difference compared with 35 mm when shown on a screen. Not sure how this translates into Megapixels, etc!
I have no particular brand loyalty although would prefer one of the better names.
DESIRABLE
Probably the camera should be available in the United Kingdom (I live in Northern Ireland) or the Republic of Ireland.
Not too expensive (say £300 Sterling or less)! Before anyone tells me I am asking the earth, I am prepared to buy 2nd hand (including E-bay) if the price and equipment is right. It does not have to be the latest model; perhaps someone has used such a camera for a few yearsand though they found it fine, they have bought a more up to date model and see no need to keep the old one.
As long as the camera, etc, is structurally sound, I don't mind if there are a few scratches, etc on the bodywork (not on the lens of course!).
I have had about 20 years experience with still cameras (mainly 35 mm SLRs, also compact 35 mm and 6 x 6 cm TLRs) up to 1996, when I bought my first camcorder. From then until late 2007 I hardly took a still photo (though I still have most of the equipment); after my mother requested a digital camera I bought her a Vivitar Vivicam 5388 at £100 Sterling. In fact I have taken far more pictures than her on it (well she is 82!) although all things considered, not that many! As my preferred subjects are wildlife photographs (especially close-ups of insects) it is noit very suitable for that. Not only is the close-up capability poor, but I find not being able to put my eye to an eyepiece (it only has an LCD screen, which has to be kept several inches from one's eye) and the fact there is a significant delay between pressing the shutter and the picture being taken, rather limiting, especially for moving objects.
There are no doubt other things the camera needs or should have; this is in the nature of a preliminary post. If anyone has any suggestions or questions feel free to respond.
Posted by Andrew Stagg on October 29, 2008 at 3:28 PM
Ian,
You will be lucky to get anything on the new front at that price. However you should be able to find a Canon 10D/20D or equivalent for £200-250 on ebay at the moment (there are quite a few on there (search for "Canon 10d body"). I started with a 10d. A basic lens (28-80) coupled with extension tubes or a close up filter will get you started with the insects. The only thing to check for on the 10d bodys is the number of shutter actuations - they were rated a lot less than the new digital cameras and a shutter failure is not a cheap repair.
I hope this helps.
Andrew Stagg
(PS are you the same Ian Rippey of UK-Leps?)
Posted by Mark Fellowes on October 29, 2008 at 3:52 PM
Hi
Andrew's right - it's a challenge. The problem isn't the camera body, but the lens. If you want life size then you'll be looking at a true macro (e.g. Sigma 105), which new would eat up your budget, and 2nd hand would still not be cheap. As for bodies, I'd look at the Nikon D40 if you want to buy new - cheap and does the job (£200 for the body from Park Cameras). Fewer MPs than new bodies, but we all know that pixels are not the be all and end all of photography. Image quality and handling are great for such a bargain, and it'll have a full 2 year warranty. For true macro, and if you can't stretch to the macro lens, consider an old 50mm lens and a reversing ring. Fully manual, but great quality, and together if you hunt around I'm sure you could get them for less than £50.
How about something different, if your budget is not flexible - you can get very decent bridge cameras for well under that price, and for macro most of them are actually pretty good, especially when you consider the cost. The big advantage of the small sensor is perceived depth of field - really useful with macro. The problem of course is that you won't get the image quality you're looking for without a DSLR I suspect.
Cheers
Mark
Posted by IAN RIPPEY on October 30, 2008 at 9:47 AM
To answer Andrew Stagg's query, yes I am the same Ian Rippey as on UK-leps. I also have the same post on another Wildlife photographers Forum www.treknature.com but so far the only response was from a ?woman in Rwanda who seems to think this was an Internet Dating Agency ! (Her account was quickly removed by the administrator).
Back to serious issues:
(a) What is a bridge camera?
(b) How does one tell the number of "Shutter actuations" (is this the number of times the shutter has been fired?
The £300 is a guide figure; one may of course spend more over time as one adds equipment, but obviously the most important thing for photographing Butterflies and other insects is good close-up capability (preferably at a good working distance).
(b) How does one tell the number of "Shutter actuations" (is this the number of times the shutter has been fired?
Yes, actuations are how many times the camera has been fired. Unless it's a profesional 1 series camera body, i.e. a 1Ds, 1D MK11N, etc,etc.etc, then you can't tell for sure the exact number of actuations. I wouldn't worry too much about this as a shutter can fail after 1000 shots, as it can after 10,000. My Canon 10D has shot between 120,000 and 130,000 and it's virtually indistinguishable from the day I bought it.
Posted by John Robinson on October 30, 2008 at 7:18 PM
Ian
There are programmes you can download to tell you the activation numbers. Some of the RAW opening ones will do it.
I wouldn't worry about it though - it can be frightening. I did it and wish I hadn't !
Cheers
JR
Discussion
5 repliesESSENTIAL
Digital SLR with interchangeable lenses; capable of good close-ups, to at least 0.5 or preferably at least life size
Excellent resolution, so that there is little visible difference compared with 35 mm when shown on a screen. Not sure how this translates into Megapixels, etc!
I have no particular brand loyalty although would prefer one of the better names.
DESIRABLE
Probably the camera should be available in the United Kingdom (I live in Northern Ireland) or the Republic of Ireland.
Not too expensive (say £300 Sterling or less)! Before anyone tells me I am asking the earth, I am prepared to buy 2nd hand (including E-bay) if the price and equipment is right. It does not have to be the latest model; perhaps someone has used such a camera for a few yearsand though they found it fine, they have bought a more up to date model and see no need to keep the old one.
As long as the camera, etc, is structurally sound, I don't mind if there are a few scratches, etc on the bodywork (not on the lens of course!).
I have had about 20 years experience with still cameras (mainly 35 mm SLRs, also compact 35 mm and 6 x 6 cm TLRs) up to 1996, when I bought my first camcorder. From then until late 2007 I hardly took a still photo (though I still have most of the equipment); after my mother requested a digital camera I bought her a Vivitar Vivicam 5388 at £100 Sterling. In fact I have taken far more pictures than her on it (well she is 82!) although all things considered, not that many! As my preferred subjects are wildlife photographs (especially close-ups of insects) it is noit very suitable for that. Not only is the close-up capability poor, but I find not being able to put my eye to an eyepiece (it only has an LCD screen, which has to be kept several inches from one's eye) and the fact there is a significant delay between pressing the shutter and the picture being taken, rather limiting, especially for moving objects.
There are no doubt other things the camera needs or should have; this is in the nature of a preliminary post. If anyone has any suggestions or questions feel free to respond.
You will be lucky to get anything on the new front at that price. However you should be able to find a Canon 10D/20D or equivalent for £200-250 on ebay at the moment (there are quite a few on there (search for "Canon 10d body"). I started with a 10d. A basic lens (28-80) coupled with extension tubes or a close up filter will get you started with the insects. The only thing to check for on the 10d bodys is the number of shutter actuations - they were rated a lot less than the new digital cameras and a shutter failure is not a cheap repair.
I hope this helps.
Andrew Stagg
(PS are you the same Ian Rippey of UK-Leps?)
Andrew's right - it's a challenge. The problem isn't the camera body, but the lens. If you want life size then you'll be looking at a true macro (e.g. Sigma 105), which new would eat up your budget, and 2nd hand would still not be cheap. As for bodies, I'd look at the Nikon D40 if you want to buy new - cheap and does the job (£200 for the body from Park Cameras). Fewer MPs than new bodies, but we all know that pixels are not the be all and end all of photography. Image quality and handling are great for such a bargain, and it'll have a full 2 year warranty. For true macro, and if you can't stretch to the macro lens, consider an old 50mm lens and a reversing ring. Fully manual, but great quality, and together if you hunt around I'm sure you could get them for less than £50.
How about something different, if your budget is not flexible - you can get very decent bridge cameras for well under that price, and for macro most of them are actually pretty good, especially when you consider the cost. The big advantage of the small sensor is perceived depth of field - really useful with macro. The problem of course is that you won't get the image quality you're looking for without a DSLR I suspect.
Cheers
Mark
Back to serious issues:
(a) What is a bridge camera?
(b) How does one tell the number of "Shutter actuations" (is this the number of times the shutter has been fired?
The £300 is a guide figure; one may of course spend more over time as one adds equipment, but obviously the most important thing for photographing Butterflies and other insects is good close-up capability (preferably at a good working distance).
Yes, actuations are how many times the camera has been fired. Unless it's a profesional 1 series camera body, i.e. a 1Ds, 1D MK11N, etc,etc.etc, then you can't tell for sure the exact number of actuations. I wouldn't worry too much about this as a shutter can fail after 1000 shots, as it can after 10,000. My Canon 10D has shot between 120,000 and 130,000 and it's virtually indistinguishable from the day I bought it.
There are programmes you can download to tell you the activation numbers. Some of the RAW opening ones will do it.
I wouldn't worry about it though - it can be frightening. I did it and wish I hadn't !
Cheers
JR