Nikon SB800 through 500mm lens- settings ?

Hi
Using the Nikon SB800 flashgun with 500mm f4 lens, I simply cannot figure out how to set it to do what I want and I have certainly read the handbook. I am trying to get shots of small birds, warblers, in the undergrowth in this appalling light we are having in the UK lately.
I am using a Nikon 500mm f4 VR lens with SB800 on an extended arm to avoid ‘red eye’ and using cable SC17 between Nikon D3 camera and flash. The only programme it will work on reliably is of course “Programme” but I want to be able to choose the aperture and shutter speed, e.g. I would like to use 250th at f8 at least, f 16 if possible (I do have a better beamer flash extender if necessary). When I try and use e.g. aperture priority and set it for f8, if I set shuuet speed to e.g. 250th (under exposed now on the meter of course)the camera sees this as under exposed and that’s exactly what I get, underexposed pics and the flash has no affect. I have even gone through every obvious setting on the SB800 and I still can’t get it sorted. The SB800 has no problems with the distances I am working, even in 'programme' I am having to reduce flash output by 2/3rd of a stop.

Kind regards Colin Smale. A.R.P.S. (Just in case you think I must be a rank beginner, I feel it.)

Haven't got a clue about auto/programable flash use Colin, but it sounds to me that fully manual use {both camera and flash} is the way to go, and just use the 'guide number/distance' method.

Sometimes too much technology can over-complicate basic 'trusted' techniques, especially with flash use in complex shooting situations {such as cluttered habitat}.

Its also possible that my old brain has difficulty grasping various automation though

Alan

I have the 500mm f/4 AF-S lens and SB-800 flash but I use a D2x instead of the D3. I shoot songbirds in the dark woods of Tennessee, USA. I can tell you what I do...your results may vary - mine do sometimes

I always use the Better Beamer
I always shoot aperture priority
I usually set for center weighted metering but sometimes 3-D Matrix (situation dependent)
I usually shoot at f/8, seldom more...sometimes f/6.3...never f/16...never f/4
I set the camera to allow FP (high shutter speed sync) mode for the flash
I adjust ISO to get the shutter speed I want and if it gets above ISO 800 I call it a day
I adjust the camera before I turn the flash on - as if I was going to shoot without flash.
I always use the fifth battery in the flash
I set the flash mode for TTL and NOT for TTL BL (balanced flash gives me too much flash)
I set the flash comp for 0 to -1 for bright days, -2 for light overcast or -3 for heavy overcast
Test shoot and adjust as necessary
I still have to set the camera exp comp for -2/3 or so for birds with significant whites
I may have to go +2/3 or +1 for very dark birds
Above comps depend on background a great deal - test ahead with a static subject (I use a small stuffed panda)

As each session progresses, just watch your shutter speeds. When it gets too slow to be useful then make a decision about whether to open aperture or raise ISO. If the choices become unacceptable then "Bob's Your Uncle", pack it in for the day.

Hope this helps and good luck

Hi Alan, yes I know what you mean about "technology can over-complicate basic 'trusted' techniques" but it's a bit like trying to break the sound barrier, you know the technology can do it, it's just squeezing the little grey cells just a bit more to break through and understand the answer.
I am going to have to go back through the handbook again, the answer must be in there somewhere, just need to recognise it.
I did find the answer in a sort of a way on MOOSE PETERSON'S site, he has created a super video showing just what I am after, unfortunately the sound/speech is garbled, a bit like short wave radio and I can't understand what's going on.
Ho hum

Colin

Blimey Mike, congrats, you are the first one 'on the globe' to come up with what looks like an answer I will look into that.
As you up the iso on your D2X, what about your noise problem ? I had a heck of a problem with noise on my old D2X which has obviously gone now.

Well, to be honest Colin, I rarely stay out if I need more than ISO 400 but I'll do ISO 800 if some rare visitors are about. I use Noise Ninja when needed but obviously those won't be premium shots in a purely technical sense. Sometimes that doesn't matter depending on the audience. Non-photographers still like them.

And thanks for rubbing it in about the noise I'm waiting for a D3X

Hahaha, sorry about that Mike, just one more techo hoop they make us jump through so we upgrade ££££££

Good discussion. I use the same setup that Mike does, but I have gotten use to TTL + BL, and always with a Beamer. I often will go -2 to -3 on the flash with very good results. Never stray from ISO 400, above that I go home. Using D2xs. Metering is Matrix. Don't forget to do test shots and align that flash; I have seen a number of people slap the beamer on take flash, and the flash isn't even in the field of view for the 500. If you are not use to aligning, I found the easiest way is to lock the tripod with the 500 on a subject at working distance, see where the flash is hitting (not looking thru the view finder generally)--adjust the flash bracket up or down accordingly; this is particularily problematic with the Mongoose flash bracket, the Wimberly has just enough play to set it pretty good. I have seen a number of 200-400 setups with this alignment problem.

Good point about alignment! I use the fuzzy side of stick-on velcro tabs as shims to align mine. Once applied to the right place it is a repeatable alignment.

Mine was "drooping" a bit so I put one shim on each of the upper forward contact points between the beamer side pieces and flash...then one more on each of the lower rear contact points. Now she points straight! I use the Wimberley Bracket as well.

Well I'm blowed, I use stick on velco as shims too

Same here, works great