Posted by Mel Ladewig on February 24, 2009 at 3:14 PM
A while back I had a set of photos where I used my spotmeter (Soligor Analog II) and got back some very underexposed transparencies. I was experimenting a bit with some film and expected a bit of overexposure based on what I was doing. I thought I'd just goofed up my calculation and chalked it up to my need to pay attention to the scales.
I just got back some film from my hike up Loveland Pass and EVERY sheet from that morning is underexposed by at least 2 stops and I know what I was metering and that the scales were set correctly. So there goes about $40 worth of film and processing! Luckily I had exposed a couple sheets of Portra 400NC, so I have something (albeit thin) for my troubles. Then a few days ago I used the meter in warmer temps and those transparencies are absolutely perfect. I would expect overexposure if the battery voltage was low due to the cold, but instead I'm getting extreme underexposure. Both instances where I had trouble, the temps were around 0F-10F. At 25F and up it seems to be fine.
I guess I'm saving up for a new Pentax Digital meter now.
Posted by Chris Rice on February 24, 2009 at 3:52 PM
Go with the Sekonic L-758DR. After you take out a government loan that is.
I have the old school Sekonic L-508 for the view camera, and never had an exposure be off more than a half stop.
Or, and I'm sure you've heard this before, but your DSLR's meter works well in these situations (if you want to lug that up with you)
Posted by Mel Ladewig on February 24, 2009 at 4:06 PM
I was previously using the DSLR as my light meter and it did work OK most of the time. I wasn't aware my Soligor was having problems until I got this film back. I bought it last fall and it was doing great in every situation I've used it for up to now. I would have hauled the SLR up there this last trip if I knew there was a problem. I've also got a Gossen Luna Pro that came free with a camera I bought, but I haven't checked to see how well it meters and I haven't tried it in the cold.
I've thought about the Sekonics too, but they run a little higher in the auction market than the Pentax, and I like the simplicity of the the dial set spot meters.
Posted by Brett Deacon on February 24, 2009 at 11:08 PM
Hi Mel. You should consider using a DSLR as a light meter. First, buy a cheap APS-C entry-level model and kit lens. Then, after playing with the digital files and finding them a bit soft, buy a nice ASP-C wide angle zoom for $500. Next, start enjoying the DSLR so much that you forget to pull out the 4x5 half as much as you did before. Begin surfing pixel-peeping websites where people have posted images from 20+ megapixel DSLRs and become dissatisfied with your current DSLR. Buy a new DSLR for $3000. Next, realize your $500 APS-C zoom won't work with your new DSLR and fork over $1000-$2000 for a 24-70 2.8 full frame zoom lens. Download the RAW files and salivate at their quality. Then view a drum scanned 4x5 and recall that the only reason you bought a DSLR in the first place was to use it as a light meter.
Alternatively, you could buy a Pentax digital spotmeter. Either method works fine.
Posted by Chris Rice on February 25, 2009 at 12:44 AM
so much that you forget to pull out the 4x5 half as much as you did before
...or forgo its existence altogether, as in my case. Hats off to those who still have the patience for the view camera!
Posted by Mel Ladewig on February 25, 2009 at 10:13 AM
I put a curve on the scanner that looked like the left side of a rainbow and I got this.
Posted by Mel Ladewig on February 25, 2009 at 4:17 PM
As luck would have it, I found a pretty good deal on a Pentax Digital Spot today, so by my next trip, everything should be good to go.
Posted by Rick Dunn on February 25, 2009 at 4:55 PM
Glad to see you found a solution, Mel. When I was shooting LF, I taped a little cheat sheet (post-it note) to the back of my meter. It had ball-park exposures for pre-sunrise, mid-sunrise, late sunrise, and the same for sunset. They were based on known good exposures. I always metered, but in tricky lighting situations, it was a good secondary check.
When I knew I had a special scene in front of me, I usually made duplicate exposures. I'd process the first, and if I wasn't happy with the exposure, I'd push or pull the duplicate sheet as necessary. A little more expensive, but worth it for special shots.
Posted by Mel Ladewig on February 25, 2009 at 5:45 PM
Thanks Rick. That's a good idea. Exposure values shift quickly, and its good to have that backup as a mental check point.
Discussion
8 repliesI just got back some film from my hike up Loveland Pass and EVERY sheet from that morning is underexposed by at least 2 stops and I know what I was metering and that the scales were set correctly. So there goes about $40 worth of film and processing! Luckily I had exposed a couple sheets of Portra 400NC, so I have something (albeit thin) for my troubles. Then a few days ago I used the meter in warmer temps and those transparencies are absolutely perfect. I would expect overexposure if the battery voltage was low due to the cold, but instead I'm getting extreme underexposure. Both instances where I had trouble, the temps were around 0F-10F. At 25F and up it seems to be fine.
I guess I'm saving up for a new Pentax Digital meter now.
I have the old school Sekonic L-508 for the view camera, and never had an exposure be off more than a half stop.
Or, and I'm sure you've heard this before, but your DSLR's meter works well in these situations (if you want to lug that up with you)
I've thought about the Sekonics too, but they run a little higher in the auction market than the Pentax, and I like the simplicity of the the dial set spot meters.
Alternatively, you could buy a Pentax digital spotmeter. Either method works fine.
...or forgo its existence altogether, as in my case. Hats off to those who still have the patience for the view camera!
When I knew I had a special scene in front of me, I usually made duplicate exposures. I'd process the first, and if I wasn't happy with the exposure, I'd push or pull the duplicate sheet as necessary. A little more expensive, but worth it for special shots.