Hi my name is Chloe i am 15 andi was wondering if you would look at some of my photography and give me some constructive criticism http://www.photobucket.com/chloeleann
Chloe, Welcome to NPN; you are doing very well. It seems you have a good eye for subjects and composition. for constructive input I would suggest you learn about exposure and exposure control to avoid over exposure. Getting a low angle is also important on wildlife subjects.
I would strongly suggest you look at all the critique forums here on NPN and read the suggestions. There are also many tutorials here that will help you a lot. Make as many image as you can and critically examine them to see what you can improve upon.
You obviously have a lot of talent, so you should advance fast.
Given your age, I am going to assume that you haven't been shooting for all that long, maybe 1-3 years at most. (Don't worry, that is a good thing - we all start somewhere!)
I think the eft image is by far the strongest. The oranges on the salmander complement the wood grain very nicely. I also like the images of the alligators(?) but I have to admit this is the type of shot I would go after. The plam trees (tenth image) has a good postcard feel to it. Well spotted.
Probably the most consistent thing I would work on would be lighting and skies. The three tortoise shots have what is called blown lightlights in the background. Those are those really bright white highlights. Generally, white highlights like that will grab the attention of the eye and viewer doesn't spend as much time on the main subject.
There are a couple of ways of dealing with this. First, overcast days, even a very light overcast, tends to diffuse the light and makes it easier for the camera to capture detail in the bright ideas. Cameras can't quite capture the same amount of contrast that the human eye can and bright days make that really obvious. Second, depending on the situation, try to use something to create a shadow. You, a sibling, a coat, a piece of cardboard all work. It has the same effect as a big cloud, but it is a cloud on demand.
The other thing would be the skies. Generally (and there are a *LOT* of exceptions) sunrise and two hours afterwards, sunsets and two hours prior, and puffy white clouds have more appeal. Grey skies generally don't have as much appeal but like anything else, exceptions exist and can create mood. I'd prefer sunrise/sunset or puffy clouds for images 1 and 3, but I do like what you are trying to do here. Given your age, there are probably some practical restrictions on being out in the middle of nowhere at 5:30 in morning for a sunrise but if the oppportunity arises, keep it in mind.
I'd also try to get your hands on John Shaw's books on nature photography. It looks like you have a good handle on a lot of the basics but he has probably the best practical explanations for a lot of what I am trying to say above. I've been shooting semi-professionally for a few years now and still will occassionally go back and read his books. Your local library will probably have them or can get them.
Are you using any photo editing software? The eft looks like it could be sharpened just a bit. (If that doesn't make sense, let us know and we'll be happy to provide more information.)
Just out of curiousity, what are you interested in shooting? We might be able to help with more specific questions as well.
Overall, your portfolio on photobucket is a positive introduction to yourself. Keep posting and keep asking questions.
(Update: I think Ed is right. It does look like you have some good photographic and compositional talent)
Dan and Ed covered most of what I'd have said. I do have a few things to add, though.
I know it's pretty expensive, especially for your age, but learning how to operate and use a digital SLR system would be very useful. I'm sure you could find an entry level setup used for the same price as a decent point and shoot.
In most US schools, Photo 1 is an available course to those in 10th grade and up. I took it in 10th grade and although it was a bit of a pain, it taught me what proper exposure was, and helped me out with understanding composition. I also very strongly agree with the aforementioned suggestion of spending time on critique forums and reading tutorials on the web. It has been incredibly useful for me.
I'd say you are off to a very nice start. I echo the things said above and would like to add a couple of other comments. Looking at the butterfly, turtle shots, the red flower and the white flower you have a tendency to put the center of interest dead center. That's a common thing to do because of the way we see but it makes photos seem rather static. A bit off center usually works better/makes a more dynamic image. Look up the 'rule of thirds' (everybody calls it a "rule' but it is really a recommendation). Also consider the implied movement. The direction a subject is moving toward should generally have more space than the direction it is coming from (more space in front than behind). This is true even with implied movement like the direction the white flower is pointing. You appear to have cropped that one square. I don't know what you started with but I'd have liked more space on the left, the directoin the flower is pointing. If you wanted it square (which I think is a good choice BTW) it would be better to chop off the ends of petals on the right and leave more of them on the left. That would also have put the bee right at the "thirds" intersection on the right.
The "rules" of composition are a bit of a bother when you are starting but if you take a moment to think about them when framing photos, after a while it becomes an automatic process and you develop a sense for what works best with each subject even if it means breaking the rules.
My other comment would be on focus. The eft and the white flower photo are both slightly out of focus at the primary point of interest, the head/eyes of the eft and the bee on the flower. I'm guessing that you are using a point & shoot and the autofocus is focusing dead center. When the point you want to be sharpest is off-center, most autofocus cameras will let you press the shutter release halfway to set the focus on the point you want sharp, then recompose while continuing to hold the shutter release halfway. Once you have the composition, press it the rest of the way to capture the image. If you have access to manual focus, it is better to turn off the autofocus when shooting close subjects like these and choose the best point of focus yourself.
Overall you have a good eye for photography. Keep it up.
Chloe, welcome to NPN. You have come to a great place to learn about nature photography and your willingness to seek advice is great. Your portfolio is very nice. I can't add too much to what has already been mentioned by the others, but I can emphazise a few things.
First, get low. Low angles in nature photography tend to add a lot of appeal and emotion to images. Viewers feel they are the subject and can relate to the subject much better when down on the subject's level. I like the low angle you chose for the turtles. I would have done something similar with the eft. Standing over a subject and shooting down on it tends to belittle the subject and make the image much less interesting.
Second, take a lot of pictures. The more you work at something the better you will get and the quicker you will progress. Be very critical of your own work. Don't be afraid to tell yourself one of your pictures is poor or does not convey the message you intended it to.
Lastly, try and pick a focus for your photography. Like most things in life, if you focus on something rather specific and spend a lot of time doing it you tend to get very good at it fairly quickly. Do you like animals, do you like landscapes, do you like insects, do you like plants? I am sure you like them all, but what do you like most and what do you want to say to your viewers about that subject? If you answer that question and focus your efforts you will become a very effective photographer.
Now, I am not saying you can't just have fun and take pictures of anything you want. Sure you can. It just depends on what your goal is in photography and at your age you have a lot of time to explore that question. However, once you answer it and focus your efforts you will become better faster because different types of photography require different sets of skills. By focusing on a particular type of nature photography you minimize the number of skills you have to master. Thus, you become good at those skills much quicker. Focusing your efforts also will reduce the amount of equipment you will need and thus the cost. Which, to me anyway, is always a factor.
As others have said, you have a good eye for what looks good and that is something that is difficult to teach. The rest, the technical stuff, will come with time. Keep shooting, posting, and learning.
To follow up on one of Ron's comments: I am a macro specialist. Give me something small, like a bug or eft or flower, and I'll shoot that in preference to a grand landscape even if that is what is in front of my. It drives some of my photographic friends nuts.
At the same time, I shoot a lot of other stuff, either for fun or to learn. I do a fair amount of sports, some portrait work (which I am horrible at), festivals and more recently, some real estate photography. Never pass up the oppportunity to shoot. You'll learn something with the challenges and it will carry over into your nature photography.
Chloe, I really enjoyed browsing your photos. They all have something interesting to look at closer and you've taken some care to arrange the photos to tell a bit of a story, create a mood or give a sense of place, which I think are some of the important elements of a photo. The first gator shot especially has a little enjoyable humor to it, and I also especially like the last one of the stream.
I would guess that most of us consider getting better at making good photos is a life long learning process. Of all the things I've tried to learn about composition, depth of field, different locations etc, which are important, I think the most important advice I've gotten and something I think about a lot when I'm taking photos is that "it's all about light".
Photos tell a little bit about how others see the world around us and I liked seeing your view of things. Hopefully you will keep at it and show a few more.
Hi Chloe! You've gotten a lot of great advice so far. I especially like what Roger said to you. All the technical knowledge will continue to come with lots of practice and study- reading, looking at work by master photographers, asking questions.
My advice: Continue to watch the light, even when you are not holding a camera, and take lots and lots of photos of everything for practice. When you find what it is that makes your heart burst when you photograph, begin to concentrate on that so that your own style develops.
You are off to a great start, and "you've got the eye" for photography. Good news there because "the eye" is very difficult to teach and more difficult to learn. You're on an adventure, now, so you GO! girl.
Chloe: The most important thing anyone can do is to encourage you to keep shooting! Photography (as perhaps is "life"), is a continuous learning experience. Read everything you can, ask other photographers to critique your work -- but also remember "rules" are really only general guidelines and it is o.k. to break them (in photography ) when the situation calls for it. And other photographers' comments are usually their opinion -- so take it with a grain of salt, and develop your own unique style.
Having said that, I want to expand on what Jim said. You can get lots of information and advice about the technical stuff (exposure, focus, depth of field, etc.). But even if you get that stuff dead on, you need to think about the composition of your photographs. The most obvious things I see with "new" photographers are the "bullseye" look Jim mentions (and note that in spite of what we say about it, there will be times when that is exactly the right look - but usually not), and "horizons." I note that on a number of your "scenic" images, the horizon splits the frame right in the middle (again, there will be times -- e.g. some reflection shots) when that is o.k. But usually, it makes the image look static. Try moving the horizon up into the top third of the photo or down into the bottom third. Experiment and see what looks best to your eye. And importantly, make sure the horizons are level! I use a grid on my focusing screen to look at that. There are also bubble levels on tripods and bubble levels you can get to put on the "hot shoe" of a camera -- but be careful. If you or the tripod are not on level ground, they may fool you.
For new/beginning photographers, I think the most understandable and useful Book out there is Understanding Exposure by Bryan Peterson. I have been doing this for over 30 years now and I still read it every once in a while.
Good luck and keep checking in here -- this is, IMO, THE best site for nature photographers
Chloe: The most important thing anyone can do is to encourage you to keep shooting! Photography (as perhaps is "life"), is a continuous learning experience. Read everything you can, ask other photographers to critique your work -- but also remember "rules" are really only general guidelines and it is o.k. to break them when the situation calls for it. And other photographers comments are usually their opinion -- so take it with a grain of salt, and develop your own unique style.
Having said that, I want to expand on what Jim said. You can get lots of information and advice about the technical stuff (exposure, focus, depth of field, etc.). But even if you get that stuff dead on, you need to think about the composition of your photographs. The most obvious things I see with "new" photographers are the "bullseye" look Jim mentions (and note that in spite of what we say about it, there will be times when that is exactly the right look - but usually not), and "horizons." I note that on a number of your "scenic" images, the horizon splits the frame right in the middle (again, there will be times -- e.g. some reflection shots) when that is o.k. But usually, it make the image look static. Try moving the horizon up into the top third of the photo or down into the bottom third. Experiment and see what looks best to your eye. And importantly, make sure the horizons are level! I use a grid on my focusing screen to look at that. There are also bubble levels on tripods and bubble levels you can get to put on the "hot shoe" of a camera -- but be careful. If you or the tripod are not on level ground, they may fool you.
For new/beginning photographers, I think the most understandable and useful Book out there is Understanding Exposure by Bryan Peterson. I have been doing this for over 30 years now and I still read it every once in a while.
Good luck and keep checking in here -- this is, IMO, THE best site for nature photographers
Discussion
10 replieshttp://www.photobucket.com/chloeleann
I would strongly suggest you look at all the critique forums here on NPN and read the suggestions. There are also many tutorials here that will help you a lot. Make as many image as you can and critically examine them to see what you can improve upon.
You obviously have a lot of talent, so you should advance fast.
Given your age, I am going to assume that you haven't been shooting for all that long, maybe 1-3 years at most. (Don't worry, that is a good thing - we all start somewhere!)
I think the eft image is by far the strongest. The oranges on the salmander complement the wood grain very nicely. I also like the images of the alligators(?) but I have to admit this is the type of shot I would go after. The plam trees (tenth image) has a good postcard feel to it. Well spotted.
Probably the most consistent thing I would work on would be lighting and skies. The three tortoise shots have what is called blown lightlights in the background. Those are those really bright white highlights. Generally, white highlights like that will grab the attention of the eye and viewer doesn't spend as much time on the main subject.
There are a couple of ways of dealing with this. First, overcast days, even a very light overcast, tends to diffuse the light and makes it easier for the camera to capture detail in the bright ideas. Cameras can't quite capture the same amount of contrast that the human eye can and bright days make that really obvious. Second, depending on the situation, try to use something to create a shadow. You, a sibling, a coat, a piece of cardboard all work. It has the same effect as a big cloud, but it is a cloud on demand.
The other thing would be the skies. Generally (and there are a *LOT* of exceptions) sunrise and two hours afterwards, sunsets and two hours prior, and puffy white clouds have more appeal. Grey skies generally don't have as much appeal but like anything else, exceptions exist and can create mood. I'd prefer sunrise/sunset or puffy clouds for images 1 and 3, but I do like what you are trying to do here. Given your age, there are probably some practical restrictions on being out in the middle of nowhere at 5:30 in morning for a sunrise but if the oppportunity arises, keep it in mind.
I'd also try to get your hands on John Shaw's books on nature photography. It looks like you have a good handle on a lot of the basics but he has probably the best practical explanations for a lot of what I am trying to say above. I've been shooting semi-professionally for a few years now and still will occassionally go back and read his books. Your local library will probably have them or can get them.
Are you using any photo editing software? The eft looks like it could be sharpened just a bit. (If that doesn't make sense, let us know and we'll be happy to provide more information.)
Just out of curiousity, what are you interested in shooting? We might be able to help with more specific questions as well.
Overall, your portfolio on photobucket is a positive introduction to yourself. Keep posting and keep asking questions.
(Update: I think Ed is right. It does look like you have some good photographic and compositional talent)
I know it's pretty expensive, especially for your age, but learning how to operate and use a digital SLR system would be very useful. I'm sure you could find an entry level setup used for the same price as a decent point and shoot.
In most US schools, Photo 1 is an available course to those in 10th grade and up. I took it in 10th grade and although it was a bit of a pain, it taught me what proper exposure was, and helped me out with understanding composition. I also very strongly agree with the aforementioned suggestion of spending time on critique forums and reading tutorials on the web. It has been incredibly useful for me.
I'd say you are off to a very nice start. I echo the things said above and would like to add a couple of other comments. Looking at the butterfly, turtle shots, the red flower and the white flower you have a tendency to put the center of interest dead center. That's a common thing to do because of the way we see but it makes photos seem rather static. A bit off center usually works better/makes a more dynamic image. Look up the 'rule of thirds' (everybody calls it a "rule' but it is really a recommendation). Also consider the implied movement. The direction a subject is moving toward should generally have more space than the direction it is coming from (more space in front than behind). This is true even with implied movement like the direction the white flower is pointing. You appear to have cropped that one square. I don't know what you started with but I'd have liked more space on the left, the directoin the flower is pointing. If you wanted it square (which I think is a good choice BTW) it would be better to chop off the ends of petals on the right and leave more of them on the left. That would also have put the bee right at the "thirds" intersection on the right.
The "rules" of composition are a bit of a bother when you are starting but if you take a moment to think about them when framing photos, after a while it becomes an automatic process and you develop a sense for what works best with each subject even if it means breaking the rules.
My other comment would be on focus. The eft and the white flower photo are both slightly out of focus at the primary point of interest, the head/eyes of the eft and the bee on the flower. I'm guessing that you are using a point & shoot and the autofocus is focusing dead center. When the point you want to be sharpest is off-center, most autofocus cameras will let you press the shutter release halfway to set the focus on the point you want sharp, then recompose while continuing to hold the shutter release halfway. Once you have the composition, press it the rest of the way to capture the image. If you have access to manual focus, it is better to turn off the autofocus when shooting close subjects like these and choose the best point of focus yourself.
Overall you have a good eye for photography. Keep it up.
First, get low. Low angles in nature photography tend to add a lot of appeal and emotion to images. Viewers feel they are the subject and can relate to the subject much better when down on the subject's level. I like the low angle you chose for the turtles. I would have done something similar with the eft. Standing over a subject and shooting down on it tends to belittle the subject and make the image much less interesting.
Second, take a lot of pictures. The more you work at something the better you will get and the quicker you will progress. Be very critical of your own work. Don't be afraid to tell yourself one of your pictures is poor or does not convey the message you intended it to.
Lastly, try and pick a focus for your photography. Like most things in life, if you focus on something rather specific and spend a lot of time doing it you tend to get very good at it fairly quickly. Do you like animals, do you like landscapes, do you like insects, do you like plants? I am sure you like them all, but what do you like most and what do you want to say to your viewers about that subject? If you answer that question and focus your efforts you will become a very effective photographer.
Now, I am not saying you can't just have fun and take pictures of anything you want. Sure you can. It just depends on what your goal is in photography and at your age you have a lot of time to explore that question. However, once you answer it and focus your efforts you will become better faster because different types of photography require different sets of skills. By focusing on a particular type of nature photography you minimize the number of skills you have to master. Thus, you become good at those skills much quicker. Focusing your efforts also will reduce the amount of equipment you will need and thus the cost. Which, to me anyway, is always a factor.
As others have said, you have a good eye for what looks good and that is something that is difficult to teach. The rest, the technical stuff, will come with time. Keep shooting, posting, and learning.
At the same time, I shoot a lot of other stuff, either for fun or to learn. I do a fair amount of sports, some portrait work (which I am horrible at), festivals and more recently, some real estate photography. Never pass up the oppportunity to shoot. You'll learn something with the challenges and it will carry over into your nature photography.
And most of all, have fun!
I would guess that most of us consider getting better at making good photos is a life long learning process. Of all the things I've tried to learn about composition, depth of field, different locations etc, which are important, I think the most important advice I've gotten and something I think about a lot when I'm taking photos is that "it's all about light".
Photos tell a little bit about how others see the world around us and I liked seeing your view of things. Hopefully you will keep at it and show a few more.
My advice: Continue to watch the light, even when you are not holding a camera, and take lots and lots of photos of everything for practice. When you find what it is that makes your heart burst when you photograph, begin to concentrate on that so that your own style develops.
You are off to a great start, and "you've got the eye" for photography. Good news there because "the eye" is very difficult to teach and more difficult to learn. You're on an adventure, now, so you GO! girl.
Having said that, I want to expand on what Jim said. You can get lots of information and advice about the technical stuff (exposure, focus, depth of field, etc.). But even if you get that stuff dead on, you need to think about the composition of your photographs. The most obvious things I see with "new" photographers are the "bullseye" look Jim mentions (and note that in spite of what we say about it, there will be times when that is exactly the right look - but usually not), and "horizons." I note that on a number of your "scenic" images, the horizon splits the frame right in the middle (again, there will be times -- e.g. some reflection shots) when that is o.k. But usually, it makes the image look static. Try moving the horizon up into the top third of the photo or down into the bottom third. Experiment and see what looks best to your eye. And importantly, make sure the horizons are level! I use a grid on my focusing screen to look at that. There are also bubble levels on tripods and bubble levels you can get to put on the "hot shoe" of a camera -- but be careful. If you or the tripod are not on level ground, they may fool you.
For new/beginning photographers, I think the most understandable and useful Book out there is Understanding Exposure by Bryan Peterson. I have been doing this for over 30 years now and I still read it every once in a while.
Good luck and keep checking in here -- this is, IMO, THE best site for nature photographers
Having said that, I want to expand on what Jim said. You can get lots of information and advice about the technical stuff (exposure, focus, depth of field, etc.). But even if you get that stuff dead on, you need to think about the composition of your photographs. The most obvious things I see with "new" photographers are the "bullseye" look Jim mentions (and note that in spite of what we say about it, there will be times when that is exactly the right look - but usually not), and "horizons." I note that on a number of your "scenic" images, the horizon splits the frame right in the middle (again, there will be times -- e.g. some reflection shots) when that is o.k. But usually, it make the image look static. Try moving the horizon up into the top third of the photo or down into the bottom third. Experiment and see what looks best to your eye. And importantly, make sure the horizons are level! I use a grid on my focusing screen to look at that. There are also bubble levels on tripods and bubble levels you can get to put on the "hot shoe" of a camera -- but be careful. If you or the tripod are not on level ground, they may fool you.
For new/beginning photographers, I think the most understandable and useful Book out there is Understanding Exposure by Bryan Peterson. I have been doing this for over 30 years now and I still read it every once in a while.
Good luck and keep checking in here -- this is, IMO, THE best site for nature photographers