I've been using an adaptation/diffusion of my (Nikon D300) pop-up flash for my macro "bug" shots, and it's quite satisfactory when I use my Tamron 90-mm macro at close working distances. I think it needs some help at longer distances, and I definitely need more flash for use with my new-to-me Micro-Nikkor 70-180 at any but its closest distances.
The Nikon R1 macro-flash setup was not designed for either of these lenses; its mounting rings fit neither, and I'm disinclined to pay $450 and then have to cobble together something to make it fit without stressing the 70-180 (in particular).
So I'm thinking about small slave units (work as slaves or as normal flash) that could supplement the pop-up when I use the Tamron, and be mounted on a bracket attached to the Micro-Nikkor's tripod-foot, and even be used well off-camera as a slave.
Questions:
When a flash is connected to a camera by means of a PC cord, does the camera's flash-power-setting work? I.e., if I set the D300 to tell the flash to fire at half power, will it? (For future reference: does the PC cord connect the flash unit in the same way as a single-contact hotshoe? and will that pay attention to the camera's flash-power-setting?)
What kind of "peripheral vision" do slave flash units' sensors have? I.e., how does the slave need to be positioned with respect to the main flash or the pop-up in order for it to work?
Unless it's a Nikon dedicated iTTL flash, you can't tell the camera to do anything with the flash. If the flash itself has a power control, you can use that. Nikon iTTL flashes will work wirelessly or with a cord such as the SC-17 or one of the latest versions of that. A plain PC cord won't do it.
Hi Rosemarie. I think I can massively simplify your set-up. As Alan has said, you need a dedicated flash to do the things mentioned in your query but if you are doing macro work, things are a lot simpler nowadays using digital cameras.
With a film camera and non dedicated flashes I had to make careful measurements, distance of main and fill flash to subject etc, of course you couldn't check it till the film came back 'in those days' but now with digital and instant viewing of your shots, things are [much easier] you can check exposure and position lights instantly.
In the past I have produced pics for magazines using the following set ups. (Camera and lens, with or without extension tubes etc, we will leave out, what you want to know is about flashes.) I used either one, very small non dedicated Vivitar 16M flash with its PC cord + extension cord and a white card for a fill light or same set up with a second Vivitar 16M, slaved to light up the background. That was it, it works, light is light, all you have to do is push the right amount into the right place ! Distances, flash to bug were around 4" to 8" at f16 f22.
I guess I bought those two flashes (which I still have) about 20 years ago and I seem to remember they were £9 each, new.
With a bit of thought there is no real need for fancy flashes for macro but, of course, dedicated flashes do make things a tad easier.
Rosemarie - you might want to take a look at www.strobist.blogspot.com. They have answers to questions on using strobes that I haven't even thought of. Seriously, their site is a blog, an archive of extremely useful tips and techniques (over 1,000 articles), and a Flickr group pool with some wonderful pictures.
As far as macro lighting is concerned, depending on the look you are trying for, ringlights and clip on twin lights might give you lighting that is too flat. I often resort to a DIY flash diffuser using bubble wrap around the head, or a bounce diffuser as describe here - http://super.nova.org/DPR//DIY01/ - in either situation I use the flash off camera with a coiled cord. I set up the shot as I want it and either hold the flash where I want to put the light, or have someone hold it for me, if it is a moving subject. I also have a pint-sized plastic chinese soup container that I slip over the top of the flash head as it is pointed straight up, which gives me a different kind of diffused light and soft shadows. All of my flash accessories together cost me less than $10 in total. Yes, I could spend more, but I am not sure that I would be getting any better results. Oh, and by the way, I use a Nikon D200, Sigma 150mm F2.8 prime macro, and a 20 yr old Sunpak 444D strobe. Hope this helps.
Thanks, guys, for the information! (I posted a reply yesterday, but some cyber-thing must have happened to it.)
Now I have enough info to go on to the next step, which I think will be to find a very small unit to mount up front and above the longer Nikkor (and make a diffuser for it) ...
Here's the thing I made to use with the Tamron; the interior is lined with foil, and the front end slides forward and back with the front of the lens. I like the economy of using (vs not using) the camera's built-in flash and not using any more batteries (this 'economy' includes effects on landfills). Maybe I can modify its diffusion to get a little more light through, and then be able to take advantage of the camera's power settings (I tried the half-power, and jiggled the camera as much as I could, and the shorter flash duration absolutely prevented motion blur).
Don't believe I saw anyone mention that Really Right Stuff has an adapter for the R1 flashes that let you mount the flash on tripod. So, mount them normally on lenses that work, and then mount them on mini-tripods for lenses that you cannot use the ring mount. You can use the Nikon remote system either way.
Discussion
7 repliesI've been using an adaptation/diffusion of my (Nikon D300) pop-up flash for my macro "bug" shots, and it's quite satisfactory when I use my Tamron 90-mm macro at close working distances. I think it needs some help at longer distances, and I definitely need more flash for use with my new-to-me Micro-Nikkor 70-180 at any but its closest distances.
The Nikon R1 macro-flash setup was not designed for either of these lenses; its mounting rings fit neither, and I'm disinclined to pay $450 and then have to cobble together something to make it fit without stressing the 70-180 (in particular).
So I'm thinking about small slave units (work as slaves or as normal flash) that could supplement the pop-up when I use the Tamron, and be mounted on a bracket attached to the Micro-Nikkor's tripod-foot, and even be used well off-camera as a slave.
Questions:
When a flash is connected to a camera by means of a PC cord, does the camera's flash-power-setting work? I.e., if I set the D300 to tell the flash to fire at half power, will it? (For future reference: does the PC cord connect the flash unit in the same way as a single-contact hotshoe? and will that pay attention to the camera's flash-power-setting?)
What kind of "peripheral vision" do slave flash units' sensors have? I.e., how does the slave need to be positioned with respect to the main flash or the pop-up in order for it to work?
I appreciate your help!
With a film camera and non dedicated flashes I had to make careful measurements, distance of main and fill flash to subject etc, of course you couldn't check it till the film came back 'in those days' but now with digital and instant viewing of your shots, things are [much easier] you can check exposure and position lights instantly.
In the past I have produced pics for magazines using the following set ups. (Camera and lens, with or without extension tubes etc, we will leave out, what you want to know is about flashes.) I used either one, very small non dedicated Vivitar 16M flash with its PC cord + extension cord and a white card for a fill light or same set up with a second Vivitar 16M, slaved to light up the background. That was it, it works, light is light, all you have to do is push the right amount into the right place ! Distances, flash to bug were around 4" to 8" at f16 f22.
I guess I bought those two flashes (which I still have) about 20 years ago and I seem to remember they were £9 each, new.
With a bit of thought there is no real need for fancy flashes for macro but, of course, dedicated flashes do make things a tad easier.
As far as macro lighting is concerned, depending on the look you are trying for, ringlights and clip on twin lights might give you lighting that is too flat. I often resort to a DIY flash diffuser using bubble wrap around the head, or a bounce diffuser as describe here - http://super.nova.org/DPR//DIY01/ - in either situation I use the flash off camera with a coiled cord. I set up the shot as I want it and either hold the flash where I want to put the light, or have someone hold it for me, if it is a moving subject. I also have a pint-sized plastic chinese soup container that I slip over the top of the flash head as it is pointed straight up, which gives me a different kind of diffused light and soft shadows. All of my flash accessories together cost me less than $10 in total. Yes, I could spend more, but I am not sure that I would be getting any better results. Oh, and by the way, I use a Nikon D200, Sigma 150mm F2.8 prime macro, and a 20 yr old Sunpak 444D strobe. Hope this helps.
Now I have enough info to go on to the next step, which I think will be to find a very small unit to mount up front and above the longer Nikkor (and make a diffuser for it) ...
Here's the thing I made to use with the Tamron; the interior is lined with foil, and the front end slides forward and back with the front of the lens. I like the economy of using (vs not using) the camera's built-in flash and not using any more batteries (this 'economy' includes effects on landfills). Maybe I can modify its diffusion to get a little more light through, and then be able to take advantage of the camera's power settings (I tried the half-power, and jiggled the camera as much as I could, and the shorter flash duration absolutely prevented motion blur).
Troup