CAZ is that the way it looked to your eyes? Seems very strange to me like mabe old film or something went arwy in the processing? But then I wasn't there so take this wih a grain of salt.
I agree that it looks a bit blue. It seems that was the case with many of my shots. It could be the film - I had been carting it around in my camera bag for a couple of years. I guess I'll just have to go back and try it again.
Back when I was shooting film (Velvia, and Provia), an 81B warming filter was the front of my lens as standard equipment. What kind of film were you using?
I'd agree with everyone...here's my 5 min update in CS3 with nothing fancy on what I thought it should look like (color balance, mostly +yellow on all 3, slight S curve, tiny sat boost, small contrast boost, and USM filter 60% @ 1 pixel). The blue cast really seems outside of what I would expect at GC. That was one of the reasons I never liked 100F...it tended toward cooler renditions and made desert scenes overly bluish.
Your GC shots look great, but they are a bit blue. I don't mind it, but if that blue is not to your taste there are some things you can do. Next time, try either Kodak E100VS or E100GX. Both are warm balance slide films. E100VS is like Velvia tuned for the desert colors (and it tones down blue shadows) and E100GX is a nice wider latitude slide film with excellent neutrals and warmth without causing the blue sky to get muddy. And E100GX has super fine grain like Astia. Of course you can also use a warming filter, and even with these warmer films I often like a warming filter in shade or before dawn.
You might try warming these existing slides in the scan software by using a color channel curve. I find this works very well. I don't know which scanner you're using, but I've got both an Epson and Nikon and both manufacturer's software works pretty much the same way. There should be a curve dialog where you can define Black, R,G or B.
First choose the blue color channel. Leave the ends alone, but pull the middle DOWN. Start at the middle and then fine tune the edges as needed. This increases yellow in the image.
Then grab the Red channel. Again leave the ends alone but pull it UP in the middle and tune the edges as needed. This reduces Cyan.
You can largely correct tungsten light sources on daylight film by doing this in reverse too. The only negative to doing this work in a scanner is that the effect applied to the entire image. If you don't want to apply it to the entire image, you can do it in photoshop too.
Thanks everyone! The blue is actually bothering me because I don't recall it looking that way.
Dave, I don't mind you working it up a bit and I really appreciate you telling me what you did to get it that way. Also, it's been nice to see you putting up a few posts lately.
Mel, I like the scanning idea. Looking at the transparencies again, the blues are consistently bothersome and that would be a good way of dealing with them all.
I like the comp very much. The blue actually does not bother me, but I wish the reds were a bit more saturated. The light hitting the prominent peak seems like it should be glowing. Thanks for posting.
Discussion
9 repliesThis looks dead-on the transparency but that doesn't mean it can't be improved in PS. As always, suggestions are encouraged.
Thanks,
CAZ
I'd agree with everyone...here's my 5 min update in CS3 with nothing fancy on what I thought it should look like (color balance, mostly +yellow on all 3, slight S curve, tiny sat boost, small contrast boost, and USM filter 60% @ 1 pixel). The blue cast really seems outside of what I would expect at GC. That was one of the reasons I never liked 100F...it tended toward cooler renditions and made desert scenes overly bluish.
Hope you don't mind,
-D
http://coyoteimages.com/images/43952.jpg
Your GC shots look great, but they are a bit blue. I don't mind it, but if that blue is not to your taste there are some things you can do. Next time, try either Kodak E100VS or E100GX. Both are warm balance slide films. E100VS is like Velvia tuned for the desert colors (and it tones down blue shadows) and E100GX is a nice wider latitude slide film with excellent neutrals and warmth without causing the blue sky to get muddy. And E100GX has super fine grain like Astia. Of course you can also use a warming filter, and even with these warmer films I often like a warming filter in shade or before dawn.
You might try warming these existing slides in the scan software by using a color channel curve. I find this works very well. I don't know which scanner you're using, but I've got both an Epson and Nikon and both manufacturer's software works pretty much the same way. There should be a curve dialog where you can define Black, R,G or B.
First choose the blue color channel. Leave the ends alone, but pull the middle DOWN. Start at the middle and then fine tune the edges as needed. This increases yellow in the image.
Then grab the Red channel. Again leave the ends alone but pull it UP in the middle and tune the edges as needed. This reduces Cyan.
You can largely correct tungsten light sources on daylight film by doing this in reverse too. The only negative to doing this work in a scanner is that the effect applied to the entire image. If you don't want to apply it to the entire image, you can do it in photoshop too.
Mel-
Dave, I don't mind you working it up a bit and I really appreciate you telling me what you did to get it that way. Also, it's been nice to see you putting up a few posts lately.
Mel, I like the scanning idea. Looking at the transparencies again, the blues are consistently bothersome and that would be a good way of dealing with them all.
Thanks again everyone.