My monitor, HP w2207h Widescreen flat-panel (with Brightview Panel), 22", 16x80x1050 screen resolution, is giving me heartburn.
I have the monitor calibrated with IOne.
The problem is, my images look great on this monitor, but come out dark on print, and look dark on other monitors. To get the images to look right in print and on other monitors, I have to brighten them up considerably (to the point of blowing out the image on this monitor) to get them right on the print and how they are seen on other monitors.
Any idea as to why, and what I need to do to correct this? I wanted to try other options before looking for a new monitor.
At the risk of sounding simplistic, why not turn down your monitor's brightness to match the prints you're getting? Many LCD monitors are notorious for being too bright right out of the box.
I did try that, but then my screen is too dark for other things. I suppose I could just turn down the brightness when I do photo processing; however, the monitor is not overly bright in itself, but the images print out dark. It is a major difference; and that is what I do not understand.
My monitor's brightness ('Intensity' or 'Luminance') via my calibration app. is set to 125 cd/m2. I get a nearly exact match with my prints with this setting.
What value are you using?
*EDIT*
Researching your calibration unit, it looks to me like you should choose a gamma of 2.2 ('Windows Standard') with the setting 'Monitor White' and then 'Medium White' (6500K).
Yeah, that's why I'm thinking that your monitor is just too bright.
You aren't alone with this complaint. Others don't even have the option to turn brightness down, so I reckon you're fortunate.
Perhaps you're so used to it being extra bright for other uses that when it's turned down for photo editing, it looks murky to you. I had the same problem with my first LCD monitor, but after I set it correctly to match my prints, I got used to that brightness setting for everything rather quickly.
John asked about your luminance, and that's the key number, regardless of the brightness level it takes to achieve it, which will vary from one monitor to the next. After you calibrate, your software should report your white luminance or cd/m2. High-end makers like Eizo recommend levels of 80 to 100. I use 90 on my HP, work with subdued room lighting, and get good print matching with an Epson 2200. But low-end monitors like mine are much brighter than Eizos, and I need to turn brightness to about 20% to achieve a 90 cd/m2. It works for me, but turning brightness down that much is controversial.
Posted by Bill Brennan on July 5, 2009 at 10:06 PM
When I started using my Epson 2880, I experienced the problem of unexpectedly dark prints. I reduced the brightness of the monitor, toned down the ambient light and started to use test prints as part of the workflow. Lately, I have been much happier with the results. Accepting the need for a test prints was the most important step.
You might want to read over the "white paper" test in this article: http://www.colorwiki.com/wiki/Printer_to_Match_my_Screen Also, keep in mind that a print does not have any inherent "brightness" in itself. We tend to forget about this, but a print's brightness is very much dependent on what light is shining on it. So if the two don't match, you can change the lighting, or change the monitor brightness & color. It's usually easier to change the monitor.
The problem is with your monitor brightness as John suggested. You need to set the monitor brightness at around 125 cd/m2. My monitor calibration device allows me measure my monitor brightness before calibration. This way I can set my monitor brightness to required amount.
Discussion
13 repliesI have the monitor calibrated with IOne.
The problem is, my images look great on this monitor, but come out dark on print, and look dark on other monitors. To get the images to look right in print and on other monitors, I have to brighten them up considerably (to the point of blowing out the image on this monitor) to get them right on the print and how they are seen on other monitors.
Any idea as to why, and what I need to do to correct this? I wanted to try other options before looking for a new monitor.
thanks
What value are you using?
*EDIT*
Researching your calibration unit, it looks to me like you should choose a gamma of 2.2 ('Windows Standard') with the setting 'Monitor White' and then 'Medium White' (6500K).
that is what it is set for, 2.2 and Medium White. I also have the brighteness down to 50%
If an inkjet, are you using the printer manufacturer's paper or a third party paper?
You aren't alone with this complaint. Others don't even have the option to turn brightness down, so I reckon you're fortunate.
Perhaps you're so used to it being extra bright for other uses that when it's turned down for photo editing, it looks murky to you. I had the same problem with my first LCD monitor, but after I set it correctly to match my prints, I got used to that brightness setting for everything rather quickly.
John asked about your luminance, and that's the key number, regardless of the brightness level it takes to achieve it, which will vary from one monitor to the next. After you calibrate, your software should report your white luminance or cd/m2. High-end makers like Eizo recommend levels of 80 to 100. I use 90 on my HP, work with subdued room lighting, and get good print matching with an Epson 2200. But low-end monitors like mine are much brighter than Eizos, and I need to turn brightness to about 20% to achieve a 90 cd/m2. It works for me, but turning brightness down that much is controversial.
Bill Brennan
http://www.colorwiki.com/wiki/My_Printer_Is_Too_Dark
You might want to read over the "white paper" test in this article:
http://www.colorwiki.com/wiki/Printer_to_Match_my_Screen Also, keep in mind that a print does not have any inherent "brightness" in itself. We tend to forget about this, but a print's brightness is very much dependent on what light is shining on it. So if the two don't match, you can change the lighting, or change the monitor brightness & color. It's usually easier to change the monitor.
Patrick Herold
Tech Support
www.chromix.com