I generally keep my shutter speeds above 1/350 and my f stop above 9. Where possible I use a tripod. Could cropping cause this and if so how much of a 15 mp image can you crop away and maintain sharpness?
Mike
I have posted an example both before and after cropping.
Michael - There are many things that will affect sharpness, of which cropping is definitely one.
1) Lens - Some lenses are inherently sharper than others. A poor lens won't register super sharp images no matter how good all the other factors are. What lenses are you using?
2) Technique - Mainly, is the camera steady enough? Are you using a tripod? You're right that shutter speed can mitigate this, but maybe not entirely. Of course,at 1/4000th or something, movement should have little to no effect.
3) Sensor - Every sensor has an Anti-Aliasing (AA) filter to get rid of moire that intentionally introduces a little bit of blur. Some cameras have a stronger filter than others.
4) Subject matter - Some subjects will just appear sharper than others, particular if they are high contrast.
5) Post processing sharpening flow - Every photo needs to be sharpened at least a little bit to make up for inherent softness in the lens and AA filter. Many times, apparent or perceived sharpness can be improved beyond that with a good sharpening workflow.
6) Cropping - how much you can crop depends a lot of other factors listed above. A very well taken image with a very good lens and very good post-processing technique could probably be cropped by a lot and still be acceptable. Certainly 15 MP is enough to do crops as large as you've shown here. (Note that I'm assuming you want to crop, then resize the file back to its original pixel dimensions. Cropping and then downsizing, or no changing the size at all, shouldn't have a negative effect on sharpness.)
And I've probably missed something, but this list is a good starting place to consider your technique and flow I think.
This isn't related to sharpness - but I noticed that the tern is tagged. Where was this photographed? I used to do piping plover/least tern work for Southampton Town
He was part of a group of 8 or so terns all tagged. It was taken in Montauk on Sunday. I am in Aquebogue if you ever want to go out and shoot together let's do it. I have a boat in Hampton Bays and I am think I could get some nice shoots from it.
Always nice to see a bird wearing jewelry, at least if you're a bird bander.
David covered most of the sharpness issues, but I'd add a few:
- The teleconverter inevitably compromises sharpness. In particular, it really accentuates the adequacy or inadequacy of your lens.
- I always shoot AF/MF; I let the camera get it close and then, if the bird gives me time, I'll use MF to tune the shot.
- More pixels can actually make a photo softer; sad, but true. Pixel density is at least as important as sheer pixel count. If you have a "full size" sensor (a/k/a 35mm) and 15MP, and your buddy has a 4/3rds system (half the size of 35mm) with 12.1 MP, your photos are going to be softer.
- Post-processing can create softness and noise that wasn't in your original. A heavy hand with the Shadow/Light Tool, especially the Shadow Tool, can seriously damaged apparent sharpness.
I generally keep my shutter speeds above 1/350 and my f stop above 9.
With active birds you need a higher shutter speed, if a breeze is blowing, you need a higher shutter speed and with some species you need it high unless they are in a resting mood.
Do you shoot in aperture priority? I do probably 99% of the time and change my aperture and/or ISO to get increased shutter speed.
1/350 is a relatively slow shutter speed and that alone can create softness issues.
Also, choosing your aperture carefully so you get the right amount of DOF is helpful. You don't always need f9 or "higher". In selecting an aperture setting you should consider the light and the distance between you and the bird.
If a bird is at a distance from me it is possible that I can get the bird sharp from beak to tail with f6.3 and don't lose but gain shutter speed, especially helpful in flight shots.
If the bird is closer to me then I will select F9/10/11 so I have enough DOF.
Selecting the incorrect f-stop can and does create softness issues if your shutter speed is too slow, even with resting birds.
The other piece of the equation that hasn't been mentioned is choosing the autofocus sensor. If you are allowing the camera to use all autofocus sensors, it will find something to focus on (usually). It may not be the point of critical focus for the image you are after. For birds, I'm often on the central auto focus sensor in AI Servo. That may work well if you have time to re-compose. If not, you need to chose the sensor that is on your subject. Lot's of good advice here in this thread.
There are only 3 things involved in making a sharp image assuming your equipment is capable of doing so.
1. Shutter speed. You need enough shutter speed to freeze any movement.
2. Plane of focus
3. Field of focus or DOF.
So if you have enough shutter speed, focus in the right place, and use a small enough aperture so that the field of focus encompasses the important parts of your subject, then your image will be sharp.
Typical settings for BIF might be 1/2000, F7.1 using a 1/3 crop camera for example.
The advice is great! I was at one point opening up too much and not getting the entire bird in focus. I may have gone too far to the other extreme especially give the distance.
The other thing I never considered was the wind moving the bird's feathers.
Mike
Posted by David Bostedo on July 31, 2009 at 10:15 AM
More pixels can actually make a photo softer; sad, but true. Pixel density is at least as important as sheer pixel count. If you have a "full size" sensor (a/k/a 35mm) and 15MP, and your buddy has a 4/3rds system (half the size of 35mm) with 12.1 MP, your photos are going to be softer.
EDIT : Accidentally attributed the above to Keith earlier - sorry...
Jim - I would guess that in a typical image that very unlikely to be the cause of any softness. The other factors listed and dealt with above are going to out weigh the pixel size issue. In particular, the quality of the lens, AA filter, and diffraction together will play a larger role. (Hence the reason a P&S with 15 MP - way denser than any SLR - isn't typically sharper than an SLR.)
In fact, I'd say that pixel density is more related to the amount of detail captured, than the sharpness of said detail. Which would be why pictures haven't continually, across the board, gotten softer over the years despite pixel densities continually going up.
And Mike - if you are concerned about whether or not your technique and camera are capable of very sharp pictures, try a static test. Tape a highly detailed item - like a dollar bill - to a wall and take some tripod shots of it in good light at a reasonable aperture. It should give you an idea of the maximum sharpness acheivable out of the camera.
More pixels can actually make a photo softer; sad, but true. Pixel density is at least as important as sheer pixel count. If you have a "full size" sensor (a/k/a 35mm) and 15MP, and your buddy has a 4/3rds system (half the size of 35mm) with 12.1 MP, your photos are going to be softer.
Keith - I would guess that in a typical image that very unlikely to be the cause of any softness. The other factors listed and dealt with above are going to out weigh the pixel size issue. In particular, the quality of the lens, AA filter, and diffraction together will play a larger role. (Hence the reason a P&S with 15 MP - way denser than any SLR - isn't typically sharper than an SLR.)
Not My quote - That information came from Jim.
Posted by Garth McElroy on August 1, 2009 at 6:32 AM
I don't think anyone mentioned this. Get closer. The closer you are (especially with a short lens) the sharper results you will have.
Posted by Nate Chappell on August 2, 2009 at 2:48 PM
Hi Michael, you´ve gotten a lot of great advice already.
I´ll add a few things if you were shooting handheld, its a fairly slow shutter speed, when shooting handheld I will typically shoot at the highest iso my camera can handle without introducing much noise. With the 50D that is about 400 or 320 iso. I´d also typically shoot the combo you were using at about F7.1 or F8 if shooting a single subject, this will get your shutter speed faster than a smaller aperture (F9 or higher) and help the bird stand out from the background more.
If using a tripod, make sure that everything on the tripod is locked down as much as possible, that goes for the lens as well, a loose tripod collar on the lens will hurt sharpness. Whether shooting handheld or on a tripod, press your face against the back of the camera as you look through the viewfinder and have your left hand (if you are right handed) support the barrel of the lens. As for the trigger finger, do not jab at the shutter button but try to use a soft, smooth motion and fire in bursts of a few shots at a time. These are just a few of the more important techniques for achieving sharper images.
As far as your tripod, typically the heavier and bigger it is, the better the results will be. I use a massive old metal Gitzo tripod and Wimberly head with my 500mm. I think Gitzo probably makes the best tripods but Bogen/Manfrotto make cheaper tripods which are adequate for midsized lenses like yours.
I keep revisiting this thread because in provides a lot of the small things which add up. One month after coming to the site I am picking up things in my photos that would have went right over my head. Really glad I found this website! Everyone has been very very helpful!
In this image, the focus does not seem to be on the bird. Objects directly behind the bird appear to be in sharper focus. You have a lot of objects here competing for the auto focus of the camera. The bird may move (this may throw off the auto focus further) but not the contrasty background objects.
A tripod will help greatly here so you don't have that extra camera movement to worry about. Use manual focus to aid the autofocus. AF on the bird but use the manual focus ring (if your lens has the manual focus over-ride feature) to tweak the focus to be sure the camera is actually focusing on the bird and not something else. I use this technique in the field.
www.pbase.com/golfpic
Posted by Jim DeWitt on December 17, 2009 at 12:46 PM
I'm not sure why this popped back up to the top of the topics list, but as I re-read it, it occurred to me these points would make a fine article if someone had time to condense the comments...
Posted by Michael Lotito on December 17, 2009 at 3:22 PM
Very interesting! I found that my 50D was back focusing by about 5 feet. I fixed this buy tripoding the camera looking up a picket fence and going into the focus adjustment. The tech service person at Canon picked out the problem when I sent him images, Still have my image issue but at least this is fixed! LOL
Discussion
20 repliesWhat will cause loss of sharpness?
What is the best way to correct this?
I generally keep my shutter speeds above 1/350 and my f stop above 9. Where possible I use a tripod. Could cropping cause this and if so how much of a 15 mp image can you crop away and maintain sharpness?
Mike
I have posted an example both before and after cropping.
1) Lens - Some lenses are inherently sharper than others. A poor lens won't register super sharp images no matter how good all the other factors are. What lenses are you using?
2) Technique - Mainly, is the camera steady enough? Are you using a tripod? You're right that shutter speed can mitigate this, but maybe not entirely. Of course,at 1/4000th or something, movement should have little to no effect.
3) Sensor - Every sensor has an Anti-Aliasing (AA) filter to get rid of moire that intentionally introduces a little bit of blur. Some cameras have a stronger filter than others.
4) Subject matter - Some subjects will just appear sharper than others, particular if they are high contrast.
5) Post processing sharpening flow - Every photo needs to be sharpened at least a little bit to make up for inherent softness in the lens and AA filter. Many times, apparent or perceived sharpness can be improved beyond that with a good sharpening workflow.
6) Cropping - how much you can crop depends a lot of other factors listed above. A very well taken image with a very good lens and very good post-processing technique could probably be cropped by a lot and still be acceptable. Certainly 15 MP is enough to do crops as large as you've shown here. (Note that I'm assuming you want to crop, then resize the file back to its original pixel dimensions. Cropping and then downsizing, or no changing the size at all, shouldn't have a negative effect on sharpness.)
And I've probably missed something, but this list is a good starting place to consider your technique and flow I think.
These were shot on a Canon 50D using EF 300 mm L F4 is usm lens. I was also using a 1.4 teleconvertor.
The shutter speed was 1/500 sec, Cpuld my issue be with auto focus??
Mike
These were shot on a Canon 50D using EF 300 mm L F4 is usm lens. I was also using a 1.4 teleconvertor.
The shutter speed was 1/500 sec, Cpuld my issue be with auto focus??
Mike
He was part of a group of 8 or so terns all tagged. It was taken in Montauk on Sunday. I am in Aquebogue if you ever want to go out and shoot together let's do it. I have a boat in Hampton Bays and I am think I could get some nice shoots from it.
Mike
David covered most of the sharpness issues, but I'd add a few:
- The teleconverter inevitably compromises sharpness. In particular, it really accentuates the adequacy or inadequacy of your lens.
- I always shoot AF/MF; I let the camera get it close and then, if the bird gives me time, I'll use MF to tune the shot.
- More pixels can actually make a photo softer; sad, but true. Pixel density is at least as important as sheer pixel count. If you have a "full size" sensor (a/k/a 35mm) and 15MP, and your buddy has a 4/3rds system (half the size of 35mm) with 12.1 MP, your photos are going to be softer.
- Post-processing can create softness and noise that wasn't in your original. A heavy hand with the Shadow/Light Tool, especially the Shadow Tool, can seriously damaged apparent sharpness.
HTH.
With active birds you need a higher shutter speed, if a breeze is blowing, you need a higher shutter speed and with some species you need it high unless they are in a resting mood.
Do you shoot in aperture priority? I do probably 99% of the time and change my aperture and/or ISO to get increased shutter speed.
1/350 is a relatively slow shutter speed and that alone can create softness issues.
Also, choosing your aperture carefully so you get the right amount of DOF is helpful. You don't always need f9 or "higher". In selecting an aperture setting you should consider the light and the distance between you and the bird.
If a bird is at a distance from me it is possible that I can get the bird sharp from beak to tail with f6.3 and don't lose but gain shutter speed, especially helpful in flight shots.
If the bird is closer to me then I will select F9/10/11 so I have enough DOF.
Selecting the incorrect f-stop can and does create softness issues if your shutter speed is too slow, even with resting birds.
1. Shutter speed. You need enough shutter speed to freeze any movement.
2. Plane of focus
3. Field of focus or DOF.
So if you have enough shutter speed, focus in the right place, and use a small enough aperture so that the field of focus encompasses the important parts of your subject, then your image will be sharp.
Typical settings for BIF might be 1/2000, F7.1 using a 1/3 crop camera for example.
The other thing I never considered was the wind moving the bird's feathers.
Mike
EDIT : Accidentally attributed the above to Keith earlier - sorry...
Jim - I would guess that in a typical image that very unlikely to be the cause of any softness. The other factors listed and dealt with above are going to out weigh the pixel size issue. In particular, the quality of the lens, AA filter, and diffraction together will play a larger role. (Hence the reason a P&S with 15 MP - way denser than any SLR - isn't typically sharper than an SLR.)
In fact, I'd say that pixel density is more related to the amount of detail captured, than the sharpness of said detail. Which would be why pictures haven't continually, across the board, gotten softer over the years despite pixel densities continually going up.
And Mike - if you are concerned about whether or not your technique and camera are capable of very sharp pictures, try a static test. Tape a highly detailed item - like a dollar bill - to a wall and take some tripod shots of it in good light at a reasonable aperture. It should give you an idea of the maximum sharpness acheivable out of the camera.
Not My quote - That information came from Jim.
I´ll add a few things if you were shooting handheld, its a fairly slow shutter speed, when shooting handheld I will typically shoot at the highest iso my camera can handle without introducing much noise. With the 50D that is about 400 or 320 iso. I´d also typically shoot the combo you were using at about F7.1 or F8 if shooting a single subject, this will get your shutter speed faster than a smaller aperture (F9 or higher) and help the bird stand out from the background more.
If using a tripod, make sure that everything on the tripod is locked down as much as possible, that goes for the lens as well, a loose tripod collar on the lens will hurt sharpness. Whether shooting handheld or on a tripod, press your face against the back of the camera as you look through the viewfinder and have your left hand (if you are right handed) support the barrel of the lens. As for the trigger finger, do not jab at the shutter button but try to use a soft, smooth motion and fire in bursts of a few shots at a time. These are just a few of the more important techniques for achieving sharper images.
As far as your tripod, typically the heavier and bigger it is, the better the results will be. I use a massive old metal Gitzo tripod and Wimberly head with my 500mm. I think Gitzo probably makes the best tripods but Bogen/Manfrotto make cheaper tripods which are adequate for midsized lenses like yours.
A tripod will help greatly here so you don't have that extra camera movement to worry about. Use manual focus to aid the autofocus. AF on the bird but use the manual focus ring (if your lens has the manual focus over-ride feature) to tweak the focus to be sure the camera is actually focusing on the bird and not something else. I use this technique in the field.
www.pbase.com/golfpic
Mike