Do you mount your prints?

I'm trying to organize myself to put some prints together for shows this fall...something I've never done. I will not be printing these myself...

So under the blanket question of "How you sell your prints?" I have a few subquestions?

#1 is most important to me right now, but appreciate all thoughts on the process of preparing prints for shows...

Here goes...

1) Do you mount your prints? Do you mount them yourselves? How/On What?

2) Do you Mat your prints? Cut your own? Where do you get them?

3) If yes for #2, How do you attach your prints to the Mats?

4) Do you sign your prints? If so where?

Thanks in advance!

Jim

Jim
Yes I do all of my own printing, mounting,matting and framing and it is all done to archival standards. My procedure is as follows:
I T-mount the print to acid free foam-core using Filmoplast P-90 tape and Tyvek tape. The P-90 is attached to the print and the Tyvek connects the P-90 to the foam-core. I also use one polypropylene Lineco acid-free archival mounting corner in the lower right. I cut my own mats with a wall mounted Esterly Speed-mat system and only use white acid-free museum rag mat board( Bainbridge or Crescent) If I am finishing with a frame I do not mount the mat to the foamcore (it just rests under the glass on top of the mounted print). If I am not adding a frame I will hinge mount the mat to the foam core with tyvek tape and place it in a clear bag so the client can easily have a frame added and if they do not want a white mat for some reason they can have a frame shop add a new one with out damaging the print.
I sign my prints on the mat and also in the white margin of the print which is covered by the mat, but ensures that if the print is ever re-framed my signature is on the print. Hope this helps
Steve

Good luck with the show. It will be good experience and publicity.

For your questions:

1, 2 and 3 - I mat and mount all of my prints. To have it down professionally is beyond the budget of normal people, especially if the pieces are large and/or numerous. It really is not all that hard. For precuts, I am using

http://www.matcutter.com/askbing.php

with various combinations of their foamcore and archival board for a backing. They offer a lot of precuts, but with a limited selection of colors, generally some shade of white or black.

Mounting is via a 't' hinge mount and placed on the print. To the best of my knowledge, I have had onlly one print come undone from the mounting and that was early with soso materials.

I also do some custom mat cutting for odd sized pieces, with a large Logan mat cutter. I don't do this very often, so I wind up with a moderately high waste ratio, at least through the first 4-5 mats. For materials, I use

http://www.framingsupplies.com/index.html

They carry pretty much everything and can also do custom mat cutting for a reasonable price.


4 - NO! Trust me, you haven't seen my signature. It is not good. The usual location for signing mat is the lower right. Some people will also sign the print. Whether the latter signature is visible depends on the choice of the artist. I've generally seen in on larger prints where you leave a 3/8" or so gap between the print edge and the mat edge, so the opening in the mat is too big by 3/8" all around, and sign that gap.

Thanks guys...that helps quite a bit.

A follow up...does anyone dry mount their prints to a foam core...and if so, do self adhesive mounting boards work well?

Is perminant mounting necessary?

I mat all my own work. My mats are "hand cut" which is to say I use a straightedge and a Logan mat cutter, not a commercial wall mount or computer controlled system. I hang my prints from the back of the mat, fine art fashion, using tape across the top, half on the print, half on the mat.

I used to dry-mount prints back in wet darkroom days but stopped doing so after losing some prints to damaged mounts. when the mounting board got damaged the print was lost because it could not be readily removed and remounted.

I generally sign & date my prints on the back near an edge. I also write the ordinal number on the back. If the face is receptive I may also sign the margin of the face in pencil.

The general rule of thumb is anything 16x20 or under can be T-hinged mounted. Anything larger that should be peramanently mounted in some fashion (I use cold mounting,but hot, cold, dry is dependant on your choice and materials used). Like I said, it is a rule of thumb and can be pushed a little. I would suggest getting the fine art printing tutorial from luminous landscape which not only explains printing, but how to mat mount with T-hinges and where to get materials. Great tool...7hrs of stuff for under $40.

http://store.luminous-landscape.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=164

I mount on foamcore with no mat for 16x24 using temporary doubleback tape. For 8x12 and 12x18s, I mount on cardboard backing with removable double back tape, 1/2 on the back of the print and 1/2 on the back of the mat on the top, then use a few small pieces of the tape at bottom to hold the mat to the board. I sign the print itself on the bottom right or left using a nonobtrusive gold, silver or bronze metallic pen. I put them in clear bags. All of this is done with the intent that this is for presentation only, as many clients will choose to professionally mount, mat and frame the prints.

I've drymounted all my prints on foam board for the last 20 years. I use a Masterpiece 500 T-X manufactured by Seal Product. Keeping the machine maintained is critical (cleaned etc.) to its performance.

Jim, if it isn't too late I'll add my 2 cents. I mount my pictures on precut purchased heavy cardboard and attach picture and mat using double sided artists tape. Find the foamboard to be too thick to fit into the grove in most frames. The tape they sell in AC Moore or Michaels does not hold... go to a dedicated art store or your local frame shop. When doing a large show (30 or so framed 16 x20s) I have them framed Iocally so I can discuss the color of the mats, the type of frames and have the framer do the work. Although I have learned how to put them together professionally, the framer will cut odd sized mats and guarantee his work. Usually try to match the frames so that the display looks neat and professional. The first large show gets expensive, but once you have an inventory on hand you only have to replace as they sell. I sign on the picture, bottom right with silver ink. Most people insist that they be signed. Email me if you want me to search out the supplier of the cardboard and the name of the tape. Another tip... always transport and/or store your pictures back to back with foamboard between each set of two (learned the hard way). Good luck.... Pat

Has anyone tried the new mylar mounting strips? These look very promising since the adhesive doesn't touch the print itself. I wonder though how well they do with larger prints which could be heavy. Would the print tend to sag over time?