Posted by Ed Cordes on September 12, 2009 at 12:19 PM
Hi RMNP people. My wife and I are thinking of a trip next year, 2010, to Rocky Mountain NP. I have been wondering what time was best for fall colors and elk rut?
I also wondered where to stay. I guess there is not much in the park itself. Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Ed
Posted by Ken Wyatt on September 12, 2009 at 2:51 PM
Hi Ed,
Usually the best time for fall color in the Colorado high country would be the last week of Sept and first week in Oct. The peak is normally around the end of Sept. The rut has started now and will continue through about mid-Oct. Most of the rutting activity occurs in and around Moraine Park (the main central valley on the east side of the park). Check with the ranger staff as to the regulations regarding approach and photography.
There are numerous hotels, motels and campgrounds in Estes Park that are basically just outside the park. I've stayed at several, Best Western, Holiday Inn, etc. and all have been good experiences.
Besides RMNP, (and depending how much time you have) I'd also suggest creating a loop drive. Starting in Ft. Collins, take CO-14 west through Cameron Pass. This follows the Cache la Poudre River, which crosses through some spectacular scenery. There are several FS campgrounds along the way. Continue on CO-14 towards Walden. From Walden, take CO-125 south a few miles until you reach the main entrance to Arapahoe NWR. Take the road past the visitor center and by driving along slowly - and looking left into the willows - you may spot several moose. We saw as many as 8 this last summer. Continue back to Walden for gas and then stay on CO-14 southerly until you reach Muddy Pass. You can either divert to the west, crossing Rabbit Ears Pass and on into Steamboat Springs, or continue south on US-40 through Kremmling and Granby to enter RMNP from the west entrance. This will eventually take you over Trail Ridge Rd. (contact the park service first to ensure it is open) and access to the high alpine ecosystem in the park. As you pass the west entrance visitor center, watch for a trailhead parking on the left after a few miles. There's a nice walking trail here that follows the Colorado River and may very possibly lead you to another moose, or two. As you continue along the west entrance road, you'll go over the pass where there will be a nice visitor center and restaurant. From there you'll find yourself at the top of the world and will gradually drop down on the east side to a choice of roads at Deer Pass (watch for the deer!). Left will take you to Horseshoe Park and a chance to see bighorn sheep and elk, plus a large waterfall (you might also consider going past the waterfall and taking the one-way Old Fall River Road - if open - back up to Trail Ridge Rd. Taking the straight ahead choice at Deer Pass will take you to Moraine Park where the bulk of the elk hang out. I'd recommend exiting the park on US-34 towards Loveland where you'll follow the Thompson River Gorge. There's plenty to see!
Posted by Todd Caudle on September 12, 2009 at 5:01 PM
RMNP is a great destination for elk pics, but I'm not sure I'd even put it in my top 10 for Colorado fall pics. Add to that the beetle kill on the west side, which is creeping over to the east, and I'd consider elsewhere for fall colors.
Posted by Ed Cordes on September 13, 2009 at 8:46 AM
Thanks Guys. I really appreciate the input. I guess the beetles have created quite some problems! Perhaps we will consider another location as we do want to get some great scenic.
Posted by Ken Wyatt on September 14, 2009 at 11:14 AM
Hi Ed,
Todd is certainly correct regarding the beetle kill in large areas of northern Colorado. It's a real shame. Timber Creek Campground, once heavily treed, has now been clear-cut. If it's fall color or scenics, check out the Hot Spots articles. Some of the best fall color spots include the canyon roads near Aspen, the west side roads prior to Cottonwood Pass, Kebler Pass Rd., west of Crested Butte, Wolf Creek Pass area and most of the roads to the north of Silverton.
Ken
Posted by Jesse Speer on September 14, 2009 at 12:37 PM
Yellowstone (elk, color) and Tetons (color) the last week of September would be my suggestion, if you have the flexibility to travel freely.
But for fall color AND elk in Colorado, it's hard to beat RMNP. Horseshoe Park, Little Horseshoe Park, Mill Creek Basin, Bear Lake Road, Beaver Meadows, Alberta Falls trail, Moraine Park, Kawuneeche Valley (esp. near the park entrance) are some of the good RMNP spots that offer traditional aspen gold in late September. You can find stuff to shoot without beetle kill. Doesn't get any better for elk viewing. I recommend McGregor Mountain Lodge near the' park's Fall River entrance.
Posted by Les Barstow on September 14, 2009 at 1:45 PM
Agreed with Jesse. If you want Elk, RMNP is the best place to be. Fall color not so much, and I'd recommend adding some kind of leaf-peeping drive to your trip to maximize your returns. If the trip up CO-14 and over Cameron and Rabbit Ears pass seems a bit much, you could try a drive along the Peak-to-Peak highway... Leave Estes Park on CO-7; follow the Peak-to-Peak Scenic Byway signs, turning right on CO-72, following it through Nederland and then leaving it for CO-119 to Black Hawk. Normally, I'd tell you to continue up over the Central City Parkway and take I-70 west to Georgetown and Guanella Pass, but it's closed indefinitely due to a massive land slide... Instead, leave CO-119 before Black Hawk, taking CO-46 (Golden Gate Canyon Road); buy a park pass for Golden Gate Canyon State Park and explore the park, making sure to drive the Mountain Base Road and take a short hike around the Bootleg Bottom area. Continue down CO-46 and circle back up US-93 to US-36 through Boulder and Lyons, or return up the Peak-to-Peak highway, scouting what you missed coming south...
As to the beetle... I went up to the park this past weekend and was a bit overwhelmed by the amount of beetle kill in the Horseshoe Park area - it's definitely heading over the hill quickly. Ken, I actually had to catch my breath when I saw the clear-cut that used to be the Timber Creek Campground. I had just recommended it to some friends in the Spring before the beetle tore through it; I couldn't believe how completely devastated it was... I'm not sure what another year of beetle will do to the area - we're all pretty much down to praying for a bloody cold winter, I think.
Discussion
7 repliesI also wondered where to stay. I guess there is not much in the park itself. Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Ed
Usually the best time for fall color in the Colorado high country would be the last week of Sept and first week in Oct. The peak is normally around the end of Sept. The rut has started now and will continue through about mid-Oct. Most of the rutting activity occurs in and around Moraine Park (the main central valley on the east side of the park). Check with the ranger staff as to the regulations regarding approach and photography.
There are numerous hotels, motels and campgrounds in Estes Park that are basically just outside the park. I've stayed at several, Best Western, Holiday Inn, etc. and all have been good experiences.
Besides RMNP, (and depending how much time you have) I'd also suggest creating a loop drive. Starting in Ft. Collins, take CO-14 west through Cameron Pass. This follows the Cache la Poudre River, which crosses through some spectacular scenery. There are several FS campgrounds along the way. Continue on CO-14 towards Walden. From Walden, take CO-125 south a few miles until you reach the main entrance to Arapahoe NWR. Take the road past the visitor center and by driving along slowly - and looking left into the willows - you may spot several moose. We saw as many as 8 this last summer. Continue back to Walden for gas and then stay on CO-14 southerly until you reach Muddy Pass. You can either divert to the west, crossing Rabbit Ears Pass and on into Steamboat Springs, or continue south on US-40 through Kremmling and Granby to enter RMNP from the west entrance. This will eventually take you over Trail Ridge Rd. (contact the park service first to ensure it is open) and access to the high alpine ecosystem in the park. As you pass the west entrance visitor center, watch for a trailhead parking on the left after a few miles. There's a nice walking trail here that follows the Colorado River and may very possibly lead you to another moose, or two. As you continue along the west entrance road, you'll go over the pass where there will be a nice visitor center and restaurant. From there you'll find yourself at the top of the world and will gradually drop down on the east side to a choice of roads at Deer Pass (watch for the deer!). Left will take you to Horseshoe Park and a chance to see bighorn sheep and elk, plus a large waterfall (you might also consider going past the waterfall and taking the one-way Old Fall River Road - if open - back up to Trail Ridge Rd. Taking the straight ahead choice at Deer Pass will take you to Moraine Park where the bulk of the elk hang out. I'd recommend exiting the park on US-34 towards Loveland where you'll follow the Thompson River Gorge. There's plenty to see!
Here's a map: http://www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/upload/basicmap.gif
Let me know if you have further questions, Ken
Todd is certainly correct regarding the beetle kill in large areas of northern Colorado. It's a real shame. Timber Creek Campground, once heavily treed, has now been clear-cut. If it's fall color or scenics, check out the Hot Spots articles. Some of the best fall color spots include the canyon roads near Aspen, the west side roads prior to Cottonwood Pass, Kebler Pass Rd., west of Crested Butte, Wolf Creek Pass area and most of the roads to the north of Silverton.
Ken
But for fall color AND elk in Colorado, it's hard to beat RMNP. Horseshoe Park, Little Horseshoe Park, Mill Creek Basin, Bear Lake Road, Beaver Meadows, Alberta Falls trail, Moraine Park, Kawuneeche Valley (esp. near the park entrance) are some of the good RMNP spots that offer traditional aspen gold in late September. You can find stuff to shoot without beetle kill. Doesn't get any better for elk viewing. I recommend McGregor Mountain Lodge near the' park's Fall River entrance.
As to the beetle... I went up to the park this past weekend and was a bit overwhelmed by the amount of beetle kill in the Horseshoe Park area - it's definitely heading over the hill quickly. Ken, I actually had to catch my breath when I saw the clear-cut that used to be the Timber Creek Campground. I had just recommended it to some friends in the Spring before the beetle tore through it; I couldn't believe how completely devastated it was... I'm not sure what another year of beetle will do to the area - we're all pretty much down to praying for a bloody cold winter, I think.