Posted by Wayne Jones on January 7, 2010 at 8:28 AM
QUESTION 1: Does anyone have experience with the “HD (High Density)” filters now made by Hoya? Are they really easier to clean and less susceptible to those little surface imperfections that are left after wiping off water from a multi-coated surface?
QUESTION 2: B&W and Heliopan make “Kaeseman (encased)” filters that claim to protect the integrity of the filter layers in inclement weather. I never had that problem. Is it a real concern? Has anyone had the severe weather problem that sealing the filter edges (Kaeseman filters) claims to solve?
#1: No. I use a microfiber cloth to gently clean optical surfaces. If cleaning is done with care, you should be good to go. Also, a filter would have to be pretty grungy to affect image quality.
#2: I have not had a problem. I use B&W-Pro filters, and they work just fine. The Kaesman filters are just another way to part you from your money, imho.
I'm with Preston on both counts. Micro fiber used properly has really extended life of my filters. And yeah, filters have to be really messed up before they affect image quality. Exceptions are rain drops (mostly fixed with lens hoods) and scratches, dust or fingerprints with sun shining directly onto them--- also mostly fixed with lens hoods.
Posted by Wayne Jones on January 7, 2010 at 4:07 PM
Thanks Preston and Hank, You are saving me some money.
Looks like I have been pretty anal about cleaning my multi-coated polarizers. The imperfect glass surface (kind of like a micro-oil slick) I get when wiping off water drops bothered me more than it should have (I like low angles, so I often shoot with my camera almost in the water). That's why the ads for Hoya's "HD" filters had me interested, but it sounds like I have been too fussy.
I know what you mean about the value of hoods. I am getting a 72mm. circular polarizer so I can use the better dedicated hoods on my 72mm.-diam. lenses, instead of using adapter rings and rubber hoods with my 77mm. filter. The flower-petal hoods provide just enough extra Sun protection to make a difference in many shots.
Working so close to the water, her's a trick that might be useful someday:
Got any Photo Flow left over from the old black and white darkroom days? Dilute that as directed, then put some in a squeeze bottle. Rub a little onto the front of the filter, and for a brief period anyway, it will keep water from beading. I learned that trick years ago from an underwater photographer who needed to shoot some stuff with the lens half-in and half-out of the water for simultaneous views above and below water. She could submerse the dome completely while watching her subject, then raise the camera enough to show above-water terrain while also seeing her subject. No beading whatsoever on the dome when she did it. I've used Photo Flow many times now on misty days when you simply can't keep the mist off a lens or filter. It works! The mist just disappears when it hits the filter moistened lightly with the Photo Flow solution, rather than beading.
Posted by Wayne Jones on January 7, 2010 at 7:08 PM
Well Thanks again, Hank!
Great tip! I just checked, and it looks like I used the last of my Photo-Flo cleaning old records years ago, but I'll be sure to get a new bottle!
Mild liquid soaps can work too, sufficiently diluted, but Photo-Flo is the most convenient. And no, no sale on the old Dektol to go with our own!
BTW- I wasn't clear before, but you want the filter surface damp with the Photo-Flo solution to get the benefits. What happens is the Photo-Flo breaks the surface tension on the droplets, preventing them from forming. They just "melt" into the moisture. With a uniformly damp filter, there's surprisingly virtually no distortion in your images.
Discussion
6 repliesQUESTION 2: B&W and Heliopan make “Kaeseman (encased)” filters that claim to protect the integrity of the filter layers in inclement weather. I never had that problem. Is it a real concern? Has anyone had the severe weather problem that sealing the filter edges (Kaeseman filters) claims to solve?
(I moved this from the Equipment Review forum)
THANKS
#2: I have not had a problem. I use B&W-Pro filters, and they work just fine. The Kaesman filters are just another way to part you from your money, imho.
-P
Looks like I have been pretty anal about cleaning my multi-coated polarizers. The imperfect glass surface (kind of like a micro-oil slick) I get when wiping off water drops bothered me more than it should have (I like low angles, so I often shoot with my camera almost in the water). That's why the ads for Hoya's "HD" filters had me interested, but it sounds like I have been too fussy.
I know what you mean about the value of hoods. I am getting a 72mm. circular polarizer so I can use the better dedicated hoods on my 72mm.-diam. lenses, instead of using adapter rings and rubber hoods with my 77mm. filter. The flower-petal hoods provide just enough extra Sun protection to make a difference in many shots.
Working so close to the water, her's a trick that might be useful someday:
Got any Photo Flow left over from the old black and white darkroom days? Dilute that as directed, then put some in a squeeze bottle. Rub a little onto the front of the filter, and for a brief period anyway, it will keep water from beading. I learned that trick years ago from an underwater photographer who needed to shoot some stuff with the lens half-in and half-out of the water for simultaneous views above and below water. She could submerse the dome completely while watching her subject, then raise the camera enough to show above-water terrain while also seeing her subject. No beading whatsoever on the dome when she did it. I've used Photo Flow many times now on misty days when you simply can't keep the mist off a lens or filter. It works! The mist just disappears when it hits the filter moistened lightly with the Photo Flow solution, rather than beading.
Great tip! I just checked, and it looks like I used the last of my Photo-Flo cleaning old records years ago, but I'll be sure to get a new bottle!
Anybody interested in some 17 year old Dektol?
Mild liquid soaps can work too, sufficiently diluted, but Photo-Flo is the most convenient. And no, no sale on the old Dektol to go with our own!
BTW- I wasn't clear before, but you want the filter surface damp with the Photo-Flo solution to get the benefits. What happens is the Photo-Flo breaks the surface tension on the droplets, preventing them from forming. They just "melt" into the moisture. With a uniformly damp filter, there's surprisingly virtually no distortion in your images.