(can someone tell me how I can make this a hyperlink?)
Posted by Bob Falcone on March 8, 2006 at 11:21 AM
I've never seen any manufacturer say that the mere act of cleaning a sensor (acutally not the sensor, but the anti-aliasing filter over the sensor) will void a warranty. Of course, any consequential damage caused by being klutzy is a different matter all together.
I've cleaned my sensor several times, and have never had any problems. I always try just blowing out the dust with a Rocket Blower (no compressed gas) and if that doesn't do it, I've found that the Copperhill method (cut down spatula, PEC pads and Eclipse fluid) works like a charm.
Posted by Les Barstow on March 8, 2006 at 11:48 AM
Nat - to make it a hyperlink, the format is (replacing parens with square brackets...):
(url)address(/url) or (url=address)short text(/url)
Click on the 'Text Style Menu' below the smileys for more info.
Posted by Bill Pelzmann on March 8, 2006 at 12:11 PM
WOW, $250 for a cleaning kit!! Somebody is making a killing.
I also use Bob's workflow.
Bulb blower first, then Copperhill method (it's cheap compared to these other alternatives)
You could try a sensor brush before resorting to Eclipse fluid, but it is only delaying the inevitable.
I was hesitant in touching the sensor with anything, but after 9 months it finally got so filthy, and no amount of blowing or brushing moved ANYTHING. The gunk was welded on - maybe the Texas humidity?
I haven't heard of anyone destroying their sensor using the Copperhill method. The instructions are very complete. About the only thing I worry about is that darn mirror lockup!
Visble Dust's claim is that their brushes attract the dust away from the sensor and thereby lower the probablility that one of the dust particles will leave a scratch as you swab your way across the sensor (filter) with it. You can buy just a pair of brushes - one main and one "touchup" - through Adorama for $89 (for 1.6x mag cameras) or $99 (for 1.3x or 1.0x mag cameras). The kit the author of the article bought contained three brushes, sensor and chamber cleaning solution, swabs, tough sensor spot removal solution, brush cleaning solution, spinny thingy to clean the brushes, blower, and case.
That's why he got grabbed for so much - he bought the complete package. I think Visible Dust is certainly overcharging, especially for their cleaning fluid solutions; but they've got a sterling reputation for their brushes.
Posted by Scott Buckel on March 10, 2006 at 2:46 PM
I usethe same approach as Bill. I try blowing off dust, then if that does not work I usethe Copperhill method. I know a number of people that use what is called the lens pen method. I have not used it or read about it, but a number of well known pros are using it.
While I was my recent trip to the Antarctic, I heard something that may be of interest. I was told that if you turn off the camera before changing lenses you reduce the total amount of dust that enters the camera. The report the person told me about implies the slight electrical field does attach dust. I have started do this and it seems to work for me as I seem to have less dust issues than I had before.
Now if I could determine when dust hits the high pass filter before I take several hundred photos. . .
Posted by Bill Pelzmann on March 10, 2006 at 8:48 PM
Scott,
Arthur Morris (of "Brids as Art" fame), highly recommends and sells lens pens with instructions for sensor cleaning. I'm happy with the Copper Hill method, so I haven't found the need to give this a try. Would love to hear from anyone who has tried a lens pen.
Posted by Les Barstow on March 12, 2006 at 7:28 PM
The blower did the trick for me this time. Unfortunately, I can't force a mirror lock-up on my D2X without an AC adapter, and Nikon is having a shortage of those lately. But a 30-second exposure gave me enough time to blow off the sensor pretty thoroughly (pointing the camera down, blower up so even more dust doesn't fall down on the sensor when you blow...)
Discussion
9 replieshttp://www.macworld.com/2006/03/secrets/sensorclean/index.php?lsrc=mwrss
(can someone tell me how I can make this a hyperlink?)
I've cleaned my sensor several times, and have never had any problems. I always try just blowing out the dust with a Rocket Blower (no compressed gas) and if that doesn't do it, I've found that the Copperhill method (cut down spatula, PEC pads and Eclipse fluid) works like a charm.
(url)address(/url) or (url=address)short text(/url)
Click on the 'Text Style Menu' below the smileys for more info.
I also use Bob's workflow.
Bulb blower first, then Copperhill method (it's cheap compared to these other alternatives)
You could try a sensor brush before resorting to Eclipse fluid, but it is only delaying the inevitable.
I was hesitant in touching the sensor with anything, but after 9 months it finally got so filthy, and no amount of blowing or brushing moved ANYTHING. The gunk was welded on - maybe the Texas humidity?
I haven't heard of anyone destroying their sensor using the Copperhill method. The instructions are very complete. About the only thing I worry about is that darn mirror lockup!
That's why he got grabbed for so much - he bought the complete package. I think Visible Dust is certainly overcharging, especially for their cleaning fluid solutions; but they've got a sterling reputation for their brushes.
Nat just put a [ url ] in front of the hyperlink and a[ /url ] without the spaces between the [ and text ]
While I was my recent trip to the Antarctic, I heard something that may be of interest. I was told that if you turn off the camera before changing lenses you reduce the total amount of dust that enters the camera. The report the person told me about implies the slight electrical field does attach dust. I have started do this and it seems to work for me as I seem to have less dust issues than I had before.
Now if I could determine when dust hits the high pass filter before I take several hundred photos. . .
Arthur Morris (of "Brids as Art" fame), highly recommends and sells lens pens with instructions for sensor cleaning. I'm happy with the Copper Hill method, so I haven't found the need to give this a try. Would love to hear from anyone who has tried a lens pen.
Here's his endorsement:
http://www.birdsasart.com/lenspens.htm