Hi, just bought the wilderness commander kayak, and interested in bird (water fowl) and landscape photography from the water. Any suggestions concerning gear protection, and what gear you take when you're on a shoot?.
Congrats on the new boat. I do a LOT of shooting from my kayak, and I know yours will open a new world of opportunity. The advice you get from others will depend partly on what kind of kayak they have, so make sure you consider the differences. For instance, my kayak is a light touring "sit-in" model that lets me pack loads of gear in dry storage for multi-day camping trips, and paddle effortlessly all day. Yours appears to be more of a "day-tripper" which probably gives you more options for keeping lots of gear within reach while paddling. With that in mind, you can consider more of the larger options used in a canoe.
DRY STORAGE: Since I sit low in my cockpit, I keep my camera, with two lenses including a 100-400 mm. zoom in dry bag that I carry between my knees. In a sit-in kayak, you brace your legs outward and up against thigh braces so you can use your body to help control it. This leaves a large space between your legs to carry gear. The dry bag I use is not the typical narrow tube, but one with a very large opening, allowing quick access to all the contents. It’s a Seattle Sports Latitude Stuff Sack (Medium size, 18" long). You can see it at the Seattle Sports Website. You could probably use an even larger one. (I also keep two smaller dry bags with rain gear, extra clothes and survival/first aid kits handy in the reachable storage are behind my seat back. You probably have some place to put that stuff too. Speaking of survival, we already had some local paddlers killed this year because they were not wearing the PFDs they had with them. Anytime you are on the water, but ESPECIALLY if the temperatures are under 60F, you need to WEAR the PFD -- TIGHT.)
Another dry storage option for you might be one I use in canoes -- a waterproof photo backpack, such as the LowePro DryZone backpacks (I have the Rover). Instead of rolling the seal to close it, they have a big waterproof zipper. Probably an even more convenient option for a fairly open boat like yours is a Pelican-styly case that opens and closes really fast.
OTHER STUFF:
-- Insurance. Just do it.
-- Find waterproof stuff in general, such as your headlamp. Why worry about keeping stuff dry?
-- I keep a few small pieces of absorbent chamois cloth in the dry bag with my other misc. gear to mop up splashes. Of course you will need micro fiber clothes for lenses/filters.
-- Want to stay dry getting in/out of the kayak in cold water? You may have room for regular boots or waders, but I carry a pair of super-portable Wiggy's Waders I like them because they fit right over my shoes, but take up almost no space, but that comes at a cost - occasional repairs with skick-on waterproof repair stuff if you scramble on rocks and branches a lot.
-- A pee bottle makes life easier. Mine is from Gander Mountain - probably others out there.
SHOOTING:
-- Tripod: I have heard of some people using tripods in kayaks. I gave up on that because I need to twist around in the cockpit a lot for angles, but it may be possible with your more open boat. Without a tripod, practice good rifle-shooting techniques to steady your camera using your elbows, knees, camera straps, etc., and that will go a long way toward stretching usable exposure times with or without IS/VC. Still, I always have a good tripod handy (bungied on rear deck) for when I step on land, or even sit in a "parked" kayak near the shoreline.
-- Anchoring. Some people use small anchors to avoid getting blown around. A short rope (I sometimes use two) will help you tie up to the shoreline, which often helps with or without a tripod. I read that one NPNer uses spring clamps on his ropes for this (sounds like a nice idea). When ropes aren't practical, I sometimes stick my paddle straight in the mud if it's shallow enough, and wrap one arm around it -- takes a little practice.
-- Landscape shooting while floating around is a different kind of shooting. (No tripods or multiple exposures, oh my!) One of the techniques I use that will get you some unique angles is sort of “shooting from the hip.” With a little practice, you can aim surprisingly accurately, and bracing the camera against the hull or your PFD will help minimize camera motion.
Getting way too long, but that’s it off the top of my head. HAVE FUN!
Good Question Jeff, I could use some kayak tips as well so I'll be sure to stay tuned to this thread. Great advice from Wayne especially the easy access dry bag (and the pee bottle). The one thing I find very convenient when I kayak is I use my older camera which is a good quality non DSLR camera. It has a pretty good zoom capibilities as well as wide angle. This versitility allows me to enjoy my time on the water so much more without having to constantly change lenses. Now granted if your going to anchor and stay in a certain spot for a period of time then my SLR would be my camera of choice with the lense for the subject I want to photograph, but usually when I kayak I'm soaking up the scenery and every subject I see requires a different range. Good luck and enjoy.
John
Posted by jeff miller on June 26, 2010 at 10:45 PM
Wayne and John, thanks for your replies. Wayne thanks for the great write up. (you should send that in to Angling Kayak or Kayaking magazine. I do have a pfd, directly behind me on the boat, ( I know I should have it on, but its 90+ degrees in Georgia right now.) Took the kayak onto a Lake Lanier tonight, this is big water so got a chance to see how it handles with some rougher stuff. Took on a little water, but not to bad. I've got a lowepro waterproof camera bag, but the pelican may be a better choice. John, I bought a canon powershot D10 for just point and shoot stuff, and it seems to do great.http://www.canonwaterproofdigitalcameras.com/ I just can't get used to not having the camera up at my eye. I've never kayaked before, so I'm working on boat technique right now, and the next step will be bring the dslr on board. Thanks again for your responses feel free to enlighten me further!
Posted by Jeff Loomis on June 28, 2010 at 10:05 AM
Hi Jeff. I have recently started shooting from my kayak too and thought I would mention something I have learned. It takes some forethought to approach wildlife without spooking them. Kayaks really cut through the water, so if you stop paddling 50 ft from your subject, you'll be right on top of them by the time you have your camera ready. And bright yellow paddles flailing around to 'put on the breaks' is sure to spook them. I found that slowing down early is much better. Then you can use a few gentle strokes to control your approach. Using the wind to quietly drift in also works well. With a little practice, you'll be surprised at how close you can get.
Thanks for starting this discussion. I'm eager to see more replies, as I want to learn too.
I'm mostly a lurker here, but this topic is interesting and I thought I would chime in.
I also purchased a kayak for photography this spring and it has been quite enjoyable, but I am still learning. I live in Central NY.
In addition those posted above, three specific things I've settled on:
> My boat is a fishing kayak, a Future Beach Trophy 126. It has a flatter hull for stability. It's not an outstanding long distance craft but it is noticeably more stable in the water that other boats I've tried. I've fond that getting in and out of the boat is the most precarious times in regard to getting things wet, so make sure everything is sealed in you dry bag while launching or returning to shore.
> I use a monopod about half of the time. There is a drink holder right on the seat between my legs to plant the monopod in. If you use a lens with a rotating collar (e.g., my Nikon 300F4 AFS or 80-200 F2.8 w/1.4TC) and loosen it slightly, you can pivot around with the monopod and get pretty good support (within the practical limits of using a kayak) and still be able to frame the shot. If you don't have this type of lens, an inexpensive ballhead would work.
> The rest of the time the monopod sits unused. For BIF the monopod is mostly useless, and these shots are often the most spontaneous, so I usually only attach the monopod when needed so I can grab & shoot.
> I put a cheap stadium seat cushion on the floor of the boat between my legs. It raises the camera above the water that accumulates from paddle drips etc. If the camera is not in the bag, I have a sheet of neoprene material folded under and over the camera/lens to act as a moisture shield. I can lay the camera down, still attached to the monopod, and keep things dry this way.
> The dry-sack suggested above looks very interesting. I use a large tube type sack, and it works fine, but not for accessories.
> For anchoring, I've read that some kayak fisherman simply "tie off" to a nearby Lilly pad if the water current is still enough,. I've never tried it, but it seems to make sense.
I recently purchased a Seattle Sports half-skirt for my kayak, thinking it would help me keep drips off the camera and my legs while paddling (also, it acts as a place to keep my fly line while fishing).
I was kayaking with my camera over the 4th f July weekend. It was really hot, bright and the water was relatively cool compared to hot and humid air. After rowing for 30 minutes or so, I pulled my camera out, and the lens and camera were completely fogged over. It took 5 minutes for the moisture to dissipate.
With the cover on, the camera sitting on the bottom of the boat was obviously much cooler then the air so I experienced the condensation problem.
I've never experienced this before, so now the half-skirt gets pulled off once in a while to even out the temperature.
Something to think about....
Posted by Brian Reilly on July 11, 2010 at 10:04 PM
I just found this posting and thought I'd add my 2 cents worth.
I spend about 200 hours photographing from my kayak each summer, primarily in smaller ponds and lakes (less than 250 acres)
The Ultimate 12 by Native Watercraft is a great little kayak. It has a flat bottom with good stability and from the top looks more like a canoe, ie. no skirt, so you can step in from shore and keep your shoes dry. It manuvers well. I also purchased a wooden kayak paddle to avoid those bright colors that might spook the wildlife.
In a local fabric store I purchased a piece of 5" foam and carved out a little hollow in the middle to cushion my camera and lens.
I understand the thinking behind the dry bag but for me it would be impractical as I need the camera available at all times. Besides, if I capsize it will happen so quickly that I'd never have time to get the camera into the dry sack. Perhaps if I were paddling thru rough water to get to a destination, the dry sack would make sense. Yes I do have insurance but more importantly, I make every effort to be especially careful.
I tried a tripod but agree that it greatly reduces the flexibility of shooting off to either side..
And I though I was crazy last month when I stuck my paddle into the mud and wrapped one arm around it while shooting nesting birds in a tree on shore. Guess I'm not alone.
Congrats Jeff! These are all fantastic points. Through trial and error, hopefully less error, you'll find what works best for you out there. For the drips from the paddles...you can place larger rubber rings around the shaft of the paddles just behind the paddle face. This will eliminate the drips completely. Coasting in close is a great point, keeping the paddle across and in front of you gives you the option of raising one end a bit and allow it to drag on the waters surface...it's quiet and enables some steering while you're coasting in close.
You can use pipe insulation for the inner rails of the boat, this way you can drop the paddle in front of you without the plastic 'BANG.' For a long time I would get close then when the paddle is put down on the kayak it would always freak something out...now it's silent.
After a horrible motocross accident shattering both arms, wrists and hands from the elbows down, I went with a lighter kayak and bolted a 2x4 behind me...now I have a 30 pound thrust Minn Kota motor on my right side that lets me cross swift moving channels or travel further without killing my arms. (Gator Point was about a 45 minute paddle in south Texas, about 8 mins with the motor) It rotates out of the water and the depth is easily adjusted on the fly so I can motor through about 7 inches of water at about 25mph. I've spent as long as two days on the river and the battery lasted great.
Whatever your choice, you'll love being out there getting closer than ever before...congrats!
Posted by jeff miller on October 31, 2010 at 10:56 AM
Finally adding to the forum here. Here is an image from Stone Mountain lake of (I think) a Gray heron. I saw the bird fly across the lake, so I paddled within 500 yards of him and then slowly drifted closer. Used a canon 20D with a 100-400 zoom. iso 800. Kept the camera in a drybag between my knees and braced against my legs when shooting.
Discussion
9 repliesCongrats on the new boat. I do a LOT of shooting from my kayak, and I know yours will open a new world of opportunity. The advice you get from others will depend partly on what kind of kayak they have, so make sure you consider the differences. For instance, my kayak is a light touring "sit-in" model that lets me pack loads of gear in dry storage for multi-day camping trips, and paddle effortlessly all day. Yours appears to be more of a "day-tripper" which probably gives you more options for keeping lots of gear within reach while paddling. With that in mind, you can consider more of the larger options used in a canoe.
DRY STORAGE: Since I sit low in my cockpit, I keep my camera, with two lenses including a 100-400 mm. zoom in dry bag that I carry between my knees. In a sit-in kayak, you brace your legs outward and up against thigh braces so you can use your body to help control it. This leaves a large space between your legs to carry gear. The dry bag I use is not the typical narrow tube, but one with a very large opening, allowing quick access to all the contents. It’s a Seattle Sports Latitude Stuff Sack (Medium size, 18" long). You can see it at the Seattle Sports Website. You could probably use an even larger one. (I also keep two smaller dry bags with rain gear, extra clothes and survival/first aid kits handy in the reachable storage are behind my seat back. You probably have some place to put that stuff too. Speaking of survival, we already had some local paddlers killed this year because they were not wearing the PFDs they had with them. Anytime you are on the water, but ESPECIALLY if the temperatures are under 60F, you need to WEAR the PFD -- TIGHT.)
Another dry storage option for you might be one I use in canoes -- a waterproof photo backpack, such as the LowePro DryZone backpacks (I have the Rover). Instead of rolling the seal to close it, they have a big waterproof zipper. Probably an even more convenient option for a fairly open boat like yours is a Pelican-styly case that opens and closes really fast.
OTHER STUFF:
-- Insurance. Just do it.
-- Find waterproof stuff in general, such as your headlamp. Why worry about keeping stuff dry?
-- I keep a few small pieces of absorbent chamois cloth in the dry bag with my other misc. gear to mop up splashes. Of course you will need micro fiber clothes for lenses/filters.
-- Want to stay dry getting in/out of the kayak in cold water? You may have room for regular boots or waders, but I carry a pair of super-portable Wiggy's Waders I like them because they fit right over my shoes, but take up almost no space, but that comes at a cost - occasional repairs with skick-on waterproof repair stuff if you scramble on rocks and branches a lot.
-- A pee bottle makes life easier. Mine is from Gander Mountain - probably others out there.
SHOOTING:
-- Tripod: I have heard of some people using tripods in kayaks. I gave up on that because I need to twist around in the cockpit a lot for angles, but it may be possible with your more open boat. Without a tripod, practice good rifle-shooting techniques to steady your camera using your elbows, knees, camera straps, etc., and that will go a long way toward stretching usable exposure times with or without IS/VC. Still, I always have a good tripod handy (bungied on rear deck) for when I step on land, or even sit in a "parked" kayak near the shoreline.
-- Anchoring. Some people use small anchors to avoid getting blown around. A short rope (I sometimes use two) will help you tie up to the shoreline, which often helps with or without a tripod. I read that one NPNer uses spring clamps on his ropes for this (sounds like a nice idea). When ropes aren't practical, I sometimes stick my paddle straight in the mud if it's shallow enough, and wrap one arm around it -- takes a little practice.
-- Landscape shooting while floating around is a different kind of shooting. (No tripods or multiple exposures, oh my!) One of the techniques I use that will get you some unique angles is sort of “shooting from the hip.” With a little practice, you can aim surprisingly accurately, and bracing the camera against the hull or your PFD will help minimize camera motion.
Getting way too long, but that’s it off the top of my head. HAVE FUN!
John
Thanks for starting this discussion. I'm eager to see more replies, as I want to learn too.
I'm mostly a lurker here, but this topic is interesting and I thought I would chime in.
I also purchased a kayak for photography this spring and it has been quite enjoyable, but I am still learning. I live in Central NY.
In addition those posted above, three specific things I've settled on:
> My boat is a fishing kayak, a Future Beach Trophy 126. It has a flatter hull for stability. It's not an outstanding long distance craft but it is noticeably more stable in the water that other boats I've tried. I've fond that getting in and out of the boat is the most precarious times in regard to getting things wet, so make sure everything is sealed in you dry bag while launching or returning to shore.
> I use a monopod about half of the time. There is a drink holder right on the seat between my legs to plant the monopod in. If you use a lens with a rotating collar (e.g., my Nikon 300F4 AFS or 80-200 F2.8 w/1.4TC) and loosen it slightly, you can pivot around with the monopod and get pretty good support (within the practical limits of using a kayak) and still be able to frame the shot. If you don't have this type of lens, an inexpensive ballhead would work.
> The rest of the time the monopod sits unused. For BIF the monopod is mostly useless, and these shots are often the most spontaneous, so I usually only attach the monopod when needed so I can grab & shoot.
> I put a cheap stadium seat cushion on the floor of the boat between my legs. It raises the camera above the water that accumulates from paddle drips etc. If the camera is not in the bag, I have a sheet of neoprene material folded under and over the camera/lens to act as a moisture shield. I can lay the camera down, still attached to the monopod, and keep things dry this way.
> The dry-sack suggested above looks very interesting. I use a large tube type sack, and it works fine, but not for accessories.
> For anchoring, I've read that some kayak fisherman simply "tie off" to a nearby Lilly pad if the water current is still enough,. I've never tried it, but it seems to make sense.
I recently purchased a Seattle Sports half-skirt for my kayak, thinking it would help me keep drips off the camera and my legs while paddling (also, it acts as a place to keep my fly line while fishing).
I was kayaking with my camera over the 4th f July weekend. It was really hot, bright and the water was relatively cool compared to hot and humid air. After rowing for 30 minutes or so, I pulled my camera out, and the lens and camera were completely fogged over. It took 5 minutes for the moisture to dissipate.
With the cover on, the camera sitting on the bottom of the boat was obviously much cooler then the air so I experienced the condensation problem.
I've never experienced this before, so now the half-skirt gets pulled off once in a while to even out the temperature.
Something to think about....
I spend about 200 hours photographing from my kayak each summer, primarily in smaller ponds and lakes (less than 250 acres)
The Ultimate 12 by Native Watercraft is a great little kayak. It has a flat bottom with good stability and from the top looks more like a canoe, ie. no skirt, so you can step in from shore and keep your shoes dry. It manuvers well. I also purchased a wooden kayak paddle to avoid those bright colors that might spook the wildlife.
In a local fabric store I purchased a piece of 5" foam and carved out a little hollow in the middle to cushion my camera and lens.
I understand the thinking behind the dry bag but for me it would be impractical as I need the camera available at all times. Besides, if I capsize it will happen so quickly that I'd never have time to get the camera into the dry sack. Perhaps if I were paddling thru rough water to get to a destination, the dry sack would make sense. Yes I do have insurance but more importantly, I make every effort to be especially careful.
I tried a tripod but agree that it greatly reduces the flexibility of shooting off to either side..
And I though I was crazy last month when I stuck my paddle into the mud and wrapped one arm around it while shooting nesting birds in a tree on shore. Guess I'm not alone.
You can use pipe insulation for the inner rails of the boat, this way you can drop the paddle in front of you without the plastic 'BANG.' For a long time I would get close then when the paddle is put down on the kayak it would always freak something out...now it's silent.
After a horrible motocross accident shattering both arms, wrists and hands from the elbows down, I went with a lighter kayak and bolted a 2x4 behind me...now I have a 30 pound thrust Minn Kota motor on my right side that lets me cross swift moving channels or travel further without killing my arms. (Gator Point was about a 45 minute paddle in south Texas, about 8 mins with the motor) It rotates out of the water and the depth is easily adjusted on the fly so I can motor through about 7 inches of water at about 25mph. I've spent as long as two days on the river and the battery lasted great.
Whatever your choice, you'll love being out there getting closer than ever before...congrats!