How do you shoot fireworks> I read use a low ISO,2-3 second shutter, or bulb mode. I am not understanding bulb. If the camera is in bulb mode, do I hold the shutter button down when I hear the blast?
Thanks,
Mikey
Fireworks isn't really a specialty of nature photographers.... but it's pretty straight forward.
"Bulb" is a manual setting on your camera where you are able to hold open the shutter as long as you are holding the cable/remote release button. As soon as you let go, the shutter closes.
Typically an aperture of f/8 or f/11 at 100ASA should work fine. Simply click the shutter release cable before a burst, keep it open for the duration of the burst and then close or let go. You can experiment with how many bursts and how long to keep things open, but that should get you in the ballpark.
Tripod of course and you might want to scout out your location and consider other things in the landscape or frame that will show up when the sky lights up.
Lastly, a quick Google search brought up this first link.
When using the Bulb setting on the shutter speed dial, I really prefer to use a cable release so I don't jiggle the camera while holding down the shutter. And of course, a tripod or other rigid mount for the camera is mandatory.
As for duration of exposure, I vary it with the number of blasts and my position relative to the "array" of blasts. If you're front and center and they're spreading out a bit, you can get more of them in. If you're more to the side and they're overlapping, too many blasts just ends up in a bright smear of color without distinct forms. Two or three bursts is plenty most of the time when shooting from the side, but I've had as many as a dozen show up nicely when I'm front and center.
As a rule of thumb I try to shoot tight enough to eliminate a lot of sky and make the blasts as frame filling as possible, but not so tight that I clip off too much of the forms. That can be a sincere challenge with modern displays and shots going to a bunch of different elevations.
I adjust my ISO for the lighting conditions. Early in the evening a low ISO is going to lighten the sky a lot, while late in the evening a high ISO will turn the sky inky black. It depends on what you want.
Depending on the setting you can also get creative by putting things between you and the blasts so they show up in silhouette. If you want to get REAL fancy, you can use fill flash gelled to "fireworks" colors to create the effect that the foreground subject is being lit by the fireworks.
Lots of options, but since most displays don't last more than half an hour, it's a good idea to do your location scouting and planning beforehand. Asking questions here is a great place to start!
Just a quick note to add... I have found that generally, a 7 second exposure is about right to capture the right amount of action. Adjust your settings accordingly to achieve this shutter length.
Posted by SimonRumford on July 4, 2010 at 12:59 AM
I was using about a 4 sec shutter speed, F16, 38mm, and ISO of about 800 with my tripod to capture this firework shot
I got my firework shots, now I need to edit them. I am trying to make a firework that is purple, blue without losing the yellow tips at the end of the trails, the sky in my photo is not completely black, some clouds are visible so that makes things harder.
It's highly variable depending on light level, the specific color of the firework and the length of your exposure. Basically the more subtle the color the harder it is to capture if the burst starts purple (for example) then the streamer behind it changes color, or the other way around. The brighter color preceding or following your chosen color can burn it out.
Strategically while shooting, I close the shutter the moment I see colors or shapes I want, rather than leaving it open to get the full effect. Post processing, if the subtle color is there, you can manipulate color balance, hue and saturation to try to pull it up. Selective Color is really handy, too. But if the color is burned out of major areas, you face playing with color fills. In my experience purples and blues are the hardest to capture, with yellows and whites in the same burst easily burning them out.
Discussion
9 repliesThanks,
Mikey
Fireworks isn't really a specialty of nature photographers....
"Bulb" is a manual setting on your camera where you are able to hold open the shutter as long as you are holding the cable/remote release button. As soon as you let go, the shutter closes.
Typically an aperture of f/8 or f/11 at 100ASA should work fine. Simply click the shutter release cable before a burst, keep it open for the duration of the burst and then close or let go. You can experiment with how many bursts and how long to keep things open, but that should get you in the ballpark.
Tripod of course and you might want to scout out your location and consider other things in the landscape or frame that will show up when the sky lights up.
Lastly, a quick Google search brought up this first link.
Hope this helps and have fun.
Lon
When using the Bulb setting on the shutter speed dial, I really prefer to use a cable release so I don't jiggle the camera while holding down the shutter. And of course, a tripod or other rigid mount for the camera is mandatory.
As for duration of exposure, I vary it with the number of blasts and my position relative to the "array" of blasts. If you're front and center and they're spreading out a bit, you can get more of them in. If you're more to the side and they're overlapping, too many blasts just ends up in a bright smear of color without distinct forms. Two or three bursts is plenty most of the time when shooting from the side, but I've had as many as a dozen show up nicely when I'm front and center.
As a rule of thumb I try to shoot tight enough to eliminate a lot of sky and make the blasts as frame filling as possible, but not so tight that I clip off too much of the forms. That can be a sincere challenge with modern displays and shots going to a bunch of different elevations.
I adjust my ISO for the lighting conditions. Early in the evening a low ISO is going to lighten the sky a lot, while late in the evening a high ISO will turn the sky inky black. It depends on what you want.
Depending on the setting you can also get creative by putting things between you and the blasts so they show up in silhouette. If you want to get REAL fancy, you can use fill flash gelled to "fireworks" colors to create the effect that the foreground subject is being lit by the fireworks.
Lots of options, but since most displays don't last more than half an hour, it's a good idea to do your location scouting and planning beforehand. Asking questions here is a great place to start!
I am using PS CS4, Thanks in advance
Strategically while shooting, I close the shutter the moment I see colors or shapes I want, rather than leaving it open to get the full effect. Post processing, if the subtle color is there, you can manipulate color balance, hue and saturation to try to pull it up. Selective Color is really handy, too. But if the color is burned out of major areas, you face playing with color fills. In my experience purples and blues are the hardest to capture, with yellows and whites in the same burst easily burning them out.