Nikon D3, 200-400/f4 + 1.4x, WH2 + Gitzo 3530LSV.
Aperture Priority exposure mode f7.1, 1/800, iso 1600.
RAW image processed in Capture One; sharpened in Photoshop CS5, full frame.
As usual, the fox cubs I tried to photograph this year were using an area where it was difficult to place a hide. I really only wanted action shots but because of the limited options for setting up the hide, I was ending up having to shoot more or less directly into the light with the sun low in the sky when the cubs were active. Normally I’m not very enthusiastic about shooting in overcast conditions, but for these fox cubs it was really the better option facilitated by the high iso capability of the D3.
For those interested in sharpening, I usually use multiple applications of usm amount =100: radius = 0.2: threshold = 0 applied through the Luminocity blend mode using the Edit>Fade command between each application. If I need to be a little more aggressive with the sharpening, as in this case as 1/800 sec in the minimum shutter speed at which you can really hope to capture action, I use Smart Sharpen set to amount = 140; radius = 0.4 and remove set to lens blur. I find that Smart Sharpen works particularly well where the detail is relatively coarse – clumps of fur as in this case. For finer detail such as feather barbs, I find the usm luminocity sharpening is more to my liking.
These values only really apply to small, web-sized or projector-sized images. For prints, a lot more sharpening is usually required.
Great cub shot Phil, and good info to go with it.
I was about to suggest more space on the left but I see its full frame. Only a mninor nit.
Good stuff.
JR
Discussion
10 repliesNikon D3, 200-400/f4 + 1.4x, WH2 + Gitzo 3530LSV.
Aperture Priority exposure mode f7.1, 1/800, iso 1600.
RAW image processed in Capture One; sharpened in Photoshop CS5, full frame.
As usual, the fox cubs I tried to photograph this year were using an area where it was difficult to place a hide. I really only wanted action shots but because of the limited options for setting up the hide, I was ending up having to shoot more or less directly into the light with the sun low in the sky when the cubs were active. Normally I’m not very enthusiastic about shooting in overcast conditions, but for these fox cubs it was really the better option facilitated by the high iso capability of the D3.
For those interested in sharpening, I usually use multiple applications of usm amount =100: radius = 0.2: threshold = 0 applied through the Luminocity blend mode using the Edit>Fade command between each application. If I need to be a little more aggressive with the sharpening, as in this case as 1/800 sec in the minimum shutter speed at which you can really hope to capture action, I use Smart Sharpen set to amount = 140; radius = 0.4 and remove set to lens blur. I find that Smart Sharpen works particularly well where the detail is relatively coarse – clumps of fur as in this case. For finer detail such as feather barbs, I find the usm luminocity sharpening is more to my liking.
These values only really apply to small, web-sized or projector-sized images. For prints, a lot more sharpening is usually required.
I was about to suggest more space on the left but I see its full frame. Only a mninor nit.
Good stuff.
JR
Phil.
Dale
Keith.
Phil.
Lovely !!, good to get him / her mid bound and some very good info re sharpening.
Andy...