Posted by Kevin Allen on August 5, 2010 at 1:21 AM
I took another try at photsgraphing a deer in the evening. I can't seem to find them during good day light. Please comment on how I can improve this photo.
1/25 sec
apt. 5.7
Iso 1600
Flash- speedlite 430ex
the lens would only let me go down to 5.7
Didn't have time to grab my tripod.
Were you at 400mm again? Did you try continuous on your drive? You had to be rather close for any light from a 430x to make it so zoom out a bit, say to 200mm. Since longer focal lengths multiply camera movement, at 200 maybe the slower speed will not be as big an issue.
In addition, you'd not then cut off the legs which is compositionally not so hot. I do note what looks to be a guardrail in the lower left so maybe that's why you cropped the legs off?
Lens only going to 5.7 makes no sense to me at all, Not that 5.7 to 5.6 is all that significant, it just doesn't make sense. Is there something wrong with the lens? Have you run tests with the lens to prove it provides sharp images at other times in full light?
Always having the tripod handy may be tough but if you are having good luck at always finding these deer at a certain time at a certain place, then you should be able to prepare/plan and have the tripod with you one of these times.
JR
Posted by David Bostedo on August 5, 2010 at 10:25 AM
Looks relatively sharp for 1/25 to me - I wouldn't expect to get much better with wildlife that moves. The flash apparently did reach the deer as you can see the reflection in the eye - although I can't tell how much it helped. I would say that technically, this image could still be sharper, and the ISO might still be a bit high (hard to tell if the fuzziness is noise or a little camera shake - maybe both), but overall it's pretty good technically.
So while flash was suggested in the other thread and did work to get you some more light here, it comes with its own issue. Flash takes some know how to use, because it such a different light than natural, diffuse light. And flash right on top of the camera usually looks worse than from other angles - but that's of course the easiest place to have a flash.
I agree on the 5.7 being odd....was that a typo?
Seems to me that the ultimate solution is to find deer in better light (or really get into how to use flash and get one or more off-axis (away from the lens center line).
Posted by Colin Smale on August 5, 2010 at 12:38 PM
Stick the flash on the end of a home made arm so it is about 12-15 inches away from the lens to avoid those eye problems.
Posted by Kevin Holroyd on August 5, 2010 at 12:42 PM
Hi Kevin
I agree with all the other comments and suggestions. I think the core problem lies with the lens max aperture size. You will always struggle with an f/5.6 mm lens in low light conditions. So do not be desponded, it is not necessarily you doing something wrong, rather the lens struggling with the light conditions.
The following suggestions might help:
As a rule of thumb, to avoid camera shake you need to shoot at 1/focal length (at max aperture).
For example if you are shooting at a 200mm focal length, you want at least a shutter speed of 1/200 sec to avoid camera shake.
I’ve noticed in both your posts that you did not use a tripod. I know it is difficult hauling it around, but it will definitely help. Mount your camera and lens before setting out.
Something I also find useful is to always take 2 photos in quick succession. In the excitement of the moment it is easy to be a little jittery – I often get it. I also find that I sometimes pull the camera to the right when pressing the shutter button. I normally find that I’m a little more composed with the 2nd photo, resulting in less camera shake.
Hope it helps.
Kevin
Posted by David Bostedo on August 5, 2010 at 1:54 PM
I think the core problem lies with the lens max aperture size. You will always struggle with an f/5.6 mm lens in low light conditions.
As before, this is a cause, but not the total cause. Even an f/2.8 lens would have only given you a shutter speed of 1/100 in this case, and would have had a very shallow - maybe too shallow - DOF.
The 1/focal length is a good rule of thumb, and of course the IS will help when you can't actually get that fast a shutter.
Posted by Kent Staubus on August 6, 2010 at 9:01 AM
Put a Better Beamer on your flash and you've got it. If the deer are predictible and come through the path night after night, I would set up a couple of remote flash and trigger them with something like CyberSyncs.
Discussion
6 replies1/25 sec
apt. 5.7
Iso 1600
Flash- speedlite 430ex
the lens would only let me go down to 5.7
Didn't have time to grab my tripod.
In addition, you'd not then cut off the legs which is compositionally not so hot. I do note what looks to be a guardrail in the lower left so maybe that's why you cropped the legs off?
Lens only going to 5.7 makes no sense to me at all, Not that 5.7 to 5.6 is all that significant, it just doesn't make sense. Is there something wrong with the lens? Have you run tests with the lens to prove it provides sharp images at other times in full light?
Always having the tripod handy may be tough but if you are having good luck at always finding these deer at a certain time at a certain place, then you should be able to prepare/plan and have the tripod with you one of these times.
JR
So while flash was suggested in the other thread and did work to get you some more light here, it comes with its own issue. Flash takes some know how to use, because it such a different light than natural, diffuse light. And flash right on top of the camera usually looks worse than from other angles - but that's of course the easiest place to have a flash.
I agree on the 5.7 being odd....was that a typo?
Seems to me that the ultimate solution is to find deer in better light (or really get into how to use flash and get one or more off-axis (away from the lens center line).
I agree with all the other comments and suggestions. I think the core problem lies with the lens max aperture size. You will always struggle with an f/5.6 mm lens in low light conditions. So do not be desponded, it is not necessarily you doing something wrong, rather the lens struggling with the light conditions.
The following suggestions might help:
As a rule of thumb, to avoid camera shake you need to shoot at 1/focal length (at max aperture).
For example if you are shooting at a 200mm focal length, you want at least a shutter speed of 1/200 sec to avoid camera shake.
I’ve noticed in both your posts that you did not use a tripod. I know it is difficult hauling it around, but it will definitely help. Mount your camera and lens before setting out.
Something I also find useful is to always take 2 photos in quick succession. In the excitement of the moment it is easy to be a little jittery – I often get it. I also find that I sometimes pull the camera to the right when pressing the shutter button. I normally find that I’m a little more composed with the 2nd photo, resulting in less camera shake.
Hope it helps.
Kevin
As before, this is a cause, but not the total cause. Even an f/2.8 lens would have only given you a shutter speed of 1/100 in this case, and would have had a very shallow - maybe too shallow - DOF.
The 1/focal length is a good rule of thumb, and of course the IS will help when you can't actually get that fast a shutter.
Kent in SD