Advice required please.

Have been trying out Phototrap attached to one of my SD14s. Caught this at midnight last night. Only using the camera's integral flash at the moment, but would like advice on what is the best lighting to use to reduce or eliminate the subject's hard shadow. Have now got the camera attached to the mains using a transformer which arrived today, so I can leave it on all night, without having to change the battery. I would appreciate any advice that would help me improve as I explore the many possibilities of the this great piece of kit.

Sigma SD14 dslr
Sigma 50mm EX DG Macro lens
Manual focus Auto white balance
Integral flash triggered by Phototrap IR beam
ISO 100
F9
1/200s
Novoflex mini tripod
RAW processed in SigmaPhotoPro4
Finished off in PictureWindowPro, and PS Elements

Here are two previous attempts taken on consecutive nights using a Sigma 24mm EX DG Macro lens.

Good start David
When I did all my bird stuff with flash it had to be two at least or even three units. It can take ages playing around with the settings as you still need some modelling.
Cheers
JohnR

Thanks for that, John. I thought as much. I've also been considering these http://www.hdwarrior.co.uk/2010/02/16/led-600-from-datavision-499-plus-vat-delivery/
as a low energy alternative.

David

your link is to a modelling light, not a flash unit - ie it is permanantly on or off, just like the cheap LED ring lights sold as "ring flash"

I think what John was referring to by "modelling" is the time and effort required to position 2 or 3 flash units and set the flash power to balance the lighting effect so the lighting isn't too flat

As John has said, the answer is to employ multiple flash units with the light coming in from different angles so that the light from one flash fills the shadow created by the other and vice versa. With a small arena to illuminate you might get away with 2 flash units particularly if you diffuse the light from the flashes. It also helps if you raise the flash units slightly so that any shadows tend to fall behind the subject. If you want to take this further, you may also want to consider getting a light meter that can meter the flash output. This will allow you to check the exposure value in different parts of the scene so that the light fall off within the scene isn't too dramatic.

David,

I posted THIS IMAGE a while back. If you scroll down the page you'll see a picture of the flash set-up that I used. I'm far from being an experienced flash user but the above set-up gave me some pleasing results without too many harsh shadows.

The harsh shadows are because you've got a point light source very close to you subject. Move the light source back, and make it a larger and more diffuse source then you'll lessen the harsh shadow areas. Try rigging a clothes-horse with a white sheet over it and fire your flash through that as an easy & cheap way to try it out. If you wanted to pay money, then you could look to buying a big softbox such as the Lastolite ezybox hosthoe either in 38cmx38cm or 60cmx60cm. You could also try creating a china ball (globe lantern) by buying one of those paper globe lightshades and hanging it with the flash inside over the area you're feeding/triggering from - you'd need a radio trigger for it though.

The LED lightsource you're looking at is a continuous light source, and you'd probably still need a diffusion sheet in front of it to soften it up a bit. You might also find the mice are less keen to go into an area that's constantly lit... but then again, mousey brains aren't that big and with a bit of patience and training I'm sure you could manage it!

HTH.

(p.s., by 'Modelling' John means 'Modelling light' - some light to actually show up the texture and shape/sculpting of the subject ie to include some shadows too - otherwise you end up with a very flat 2d/lifeless image. Remember 'Light Illuminates, Shadow Defines'.)

With all that advice David you will be an expert "flasher" in no time

Why not try a bit of white card to bounce the light around, and a bit of tissue to diffuse the on camera flash?

Overwhelmed by the response and good advice, my cup runneth over. Thank you very much.

Thanks Justin I missed that image first time round, the set-up gives me much food for thought, If I get results half as good as your bank vole I'll be satisfied.

Maggie, for once I'm speechless.

Good luck David

David
I spent many years photographing birds at my woodland pool with three flashes.
Two mecablitz 402's with one baffled with plastic sheet and a small flash on slave above the pool. I moved these around for months until I thought and others did that I had it about right.
But there is one hard fact David .
You may get it near but you will NEVER get it like daylight .Sorry
JohnR

You needed one of these then John .