Posted by Larry Fischer on November 23, 2010 at 3:14 PM
Found this site and the Japanese photographer does some nice night work.
Note the technique in photographing with huge DOF on one exposure.
Not sure how he manages to change from f/2.8 to f/22 unless the exposure time and darkness cover vibrations...???
Brad, I wonder how some of your grasses would appear in strong moonlight. Stop by and I'll show you some I took experimentally last weekend.
Posted by Scott Bean on November 24, 2010 at 9:00 AM
Yeah I saw this too and was wondering about the technique. I think you would have to be using a lens with an aperature ring on it. I don't have any lenses like that, but even if I did I'm too clumsy to change the aperature during a shot and not shake the heck out of the camera! I am going to experiment with this type of composition sometime but doing it in 2 shots rather than 1.
That was a very interesting photo!
Posted by Larry Fischer on November 24, 2010 at 12:27 PM
Scott,
How about placing a black item [dark paper, etc.] in front of the lens while scrunching down the aperture, then removing it for the remainder of the exposure. Seems any vibration would not show??
I used to do this with my astronomical telescope to remove any mirror bounce.
the fisch
Posted by Scott Bean on November 24, 2010 at 4:07 PM
That's a great idea Larry! I will have to try that. I have found an old manual Olympus lens with an aperature ring on it that I have an adapter to for my DSLR, may have to try that some night over Thanksgiving.
Posted by Mike Hall on November 24, 2010 at 5:20 PM
Blacking out the front of the lens is fine for the pinpoint stars. But, don't do that on star trails. Karla and I did this (covering the lens) while I turned on the flashlight and moved to another boulder during a light painting session. We had had dotted star trails for every time we covered the lens. Even for the few seconds it made a dotted apperance.
I will stick to the two shot version. I do the star trails or pinpoint stars for frame one and then a second exposure for the painted subject. Most times it takes several attempts to get the painted frame to look good. I'd hate to blow the whole twenty minutes or longer exposure only to mess it up during the painting.
Combine the two with "screen" or "lighten" in layers.
Posted by Mike Hall on November 24, 2010 at 5:27 PM
This is the dotted version where we covered the lens for a few seconds while I moved behind another boulder. It really does take practice and I have tons of fun trying and learning.
Posted by Larry Fischer on November 26, 2010 at 10:14 AM
I don't quite understand.
I presume the original photo we saw on the website already was in position for up close light.
The only thing to do is quickly close the aperture with black paper in front of the lens to avoid movement, the remove the paper and make the up close light painting.
With a 15-20 mm lens this would seemingly not produce "dots".
Will have to try it mysel--for fun.
Hey if 2 photos do the same trick that would seem easier to me.
Thanks for the feed back, and I like the second photo best; great texture on the rocks.
the fisch
Discussion
7 repliesNote the technique in photographing with huge DOF on one exposure.
Not sure how he manages to change from f/2.8 to f/22 unless the exposure time and darkness cover vibrations...???
Brad, I wonder how some of your grasses would appear in strong moonlight. Stop by and I'll show you some I took experimentally last weekend.
the fisch
http://www.flickr.com/photos/43894176@N07/5150022192/in/photostream/
That was a very interesting photo!
How about placing a black item [dark paper, etc.] in front of the lens while scrunching down the aperture, then removing it for the remainder of the exposure. Seems any vibration would not show??
I used to do this with my astronomical telescope to remove any mirror bounce.
the fisch
I will stick to the two shot version. I do the star trails or pinpoint stars for frame one and then a second exposure for the painted subject. Most times it takes several attempts to get the painted frame to look good. I'd hate to blow the whole twenty minutes or longer exposure only to mess it up during the painting.
Combine the two with "screen" or "lighten" in layers.
I presume the original photo we saw on the website already was in position for up close light.
The only thing to do is quickly close the aperture with black paper in front of the lens to avoid movement, the remove the paper and make the up close light painting.
With a 15-20 mm lens this would seemingly not produce "dots".
Will have to try it mysel--for fun.
Hey if 2 photos do the same trick that would seem easier to me.
Thanks for the feed back, and I like the second photo best; great texture on the rocks.
the fisch