Posted by Richard Olsen on December 27, 2010 at 11:50 AM
Starting mid Jan, We're going to make a trip through California,then up the coast.
We want to do Yosemite for sure, then after that???
I'd very much appreciate suggestions for must see places, how long to stay and good lodging choices.
We'll be traveling from Colorado.
Richard, as you'd indicated traveling from Colorado I assume by vehicle then? If so, you could visit the eastern side of the state first possibly before going into Yosemite and doing the coastal area. Joshua Tree NP and Death Valley NP are two desert locales that can be visited during January. As well as the Alabama Hills and much more along the 395 corridor all the way up to Lee Vining and Mono Lake. Many sites along the corridor are drivable during the winter months, however, passing between the eastern side to the western side of the sierras will require some overall checking of pass openings or snow closures as it were. Especially this year. We have had a bumper crop of rain and snow all over the state, so travels will be very limited in MANY locations. Have a great trip.
Paul makes some very good points. From Colorado, you have alternatives...
--Head south and hit Joshua Tree, north to Death Valley (DV), east to Lone Pine (Alabama Hills) and then north, up 395 and over the Sierra to the west side. You'd then go south to Yosemite, taking in some of the Gold Country along the way (Hwy 49). If you then want to hit the coast, you can go to either the north coast (Marin Headlands, Point Reyes, Point Arena, Mendocino) or head south to Big Sur. From experience, I will say this is pot load of driving. If it was me, I would skip Joshua Tree for another time, and head straight for DV and then to points east and north.
--If you decide to skip the East Side of the Sierra, head west, over I-80 or US-50 (Lake Tahoe), and then south to Yosemite. After Yosemite, you could boogie over to the coast.
You didn't mention if you are camping or motel-ing. If you are camping, there are lots of choices; same with hoteling. If you are camping, be prepared for snow/rain, wind and cold weather.
Our CA snowpack is nearly 200% of normal for this time of year! Therefore, some places that are normally open are in bad shape, or not accessible at all. You'll have to check road conditions and accessibility as you get closer to your trip. Be prepared to alter your plans. Be aware that chains must be carried in Yosemite during the winter, and could be required at any time. The NPS rangers will ticket you if you don't have them.
I hope this helps. If you need more specifics, we are here!
Have fun on your trip!
--P
Posted by Harley Goldman on December 27, 2010 at 3:02 PM
You have great suggestions so far. Just keep in mind that CA is a HUGE state. It takes a while to get places.
You did not say how much time you have, so that makes it tough to make recommendations. If you have weeks, then definitely add J-Tree. If not, then I would skip it. Etc.
If you get a general itinerary, then we can throw out some accommodation suggestions. Will you be camping or motel/hoteling it?
Posted by Richard Olsen on December 27, 2010 at 3:17 PM
We will be moteling it...camping in the cold is not as fun as it used to be...
Time is not a concern, so we can take as much as we need to make a good trip.
Thanks for the tips so far!! With the heavy snowfall, will there be travel limitations at Yosemite?
With the heavy snowfall, will there be travel limitations at Yosemite?
Short answer...Maybe. If you enter the park on HWY 140 via Merced and Mariposa, you should be OK since it is a lower elevation road. However, if the snow level is below 4000 feet, chains will likely be required. The other roads, HWY 120 and 41 top out at much higher elevations, and if there is a major dump, they might close them. HWY 140 is the safest bet.
The valley floor can be OK, or it can be an ice rink, especially on the shaded south side (South Side Drive). Just ask at the park entrance and they will give you the current conditions.
Time is not a concern, so we can take as much as we need to make a good trip.
I am not one who is usually envious...but now I am!
If you are thinking of heading through the Gold Country in the Sierra Foothills (HWY 49) give me a holler--I am in Columbia, so perhaps we can link up.
From your last message it sounds like you've time to do a bit of traveling. But, as both Preston and Harley mention, California point to point driving can be lengthy to say the least. In most places in the continental USA a days travel can get you through a few states in many cases. California is nothing like that.
Joshua Tree has plenty of motels in the general area and the park typically can be looked over in a couple days. Death Valley is another story, it's very large and can take a full week to poke around there. It's limited with moteling and reservations in advance are highly recommended. The most recent fire at the Stove Pipe Wells saloon & restaurant has placed it on the mending list so far as I know. That only leaves the Furnace Creek area for stay overs other then camping of course. You can always check on line about that location in the park. To the west from DVNP is Lone Pine and the adjacent Alabama Hills with Mt. Whitney as the main backdrop. Plenty of accommodations there. Heading north from there is usually pretty flexible on accommodations all along the 395 corridor. Once you get your ideas lined up it's always a good idea to run the Mapquest thing from point to point and print those out too.
Posted by Lon Overacker on December 27, 2010 at 6:44 PM
Hi Richard,
I too was wondering how much time you had - sounds like it's rather open ended. Very cool!
You also mentioned Yosemite was a definite, so I'll start there with some lodging info. Of course, if you can get lodging in the Valley that would be preferred. I would recommend the Yosemite Lodge, then Curry Village. The Ahwhanee if money is no object... :-) for Yosemite lodging check here.
I highly recommend accessing Yosemite via Highway 140 out of Merced/Mariposa. It's the best access during the winter. Lodging in Mariposa is a possibility, but it's at least 45min from the valley. If you can't get lodging in the valley I would recommend the Yosemite View Lodge in El Portal or the Cedar Lodge. The YV lodge is just 2 miles or so from the Arch Rock entrance. And the Merced River Canyon is a photo destination all by itself. check here.
Weather in January is completely unpredictable as you might expect. By law you must carry chains while in the park. It's unlikely however that you will actually need them in the valley and traveling in via 140, but need to be prepared.
Time in the park depends on a number of things, but I would say a minimum of 3 days. If you've been to Yosemite before then you probably already have some ideas. If not, it also depends on what you like to do. If you like to hike and want to spend time exploring via snowshoes or x-country ski's (badger pass area) or are you content with the more accessible and iconic spots? 5 days would be ideal if you would like to spend more time in certain areas. And as I mentioned, I would highly recommend a day in the Merced River Canyon around El Portal and all the way back to Bryceburg. Lots of interesting rock/wall formations and the green moss will be very vibrant in January.
For the rest of the trip, I may suggest something like the following.
-Starting point Death Valley coming in from Las Vegas. At least 3 days there and if you just have a standard vehicle (not 4x4 or with good clearance,) stick to the main locations.
- 395 up the East Side, Alabama Hills, Mammoth area and then to Mono Lake. It's such a beautiful drive on 395, but be prepared for winter conditions.
- At least an overnight near Mono Lake, which would mean staying in Lee Vining. Not much to speak of there, but really your only choice for lodging.
- Continue north to Lake Tahoe. You can cut over the Sierra via 89>88 or 89>Tahoe>50 Take a drive around the lake - Emerald Bay is a popular location.
- From Tahoe I see a couple choices. 1. Head west towards San Francisco and head north - Point Reyes National Seashore and then north on Highway 1 to some Redwoods, and of course the rugged north coast. There is also the John Muir woods just north of SF and the GG Bridge OR 2. Head South and do Yosemite at this point, 3-5 days.
- If you do Yosemite here, then leaving there, head straight across the valley to hit the coast at Santa Cruz or Monterey. You've got Monterey, Pacific Grove (recommended, rugged coast line, easy access.) south to Carmel, Point Lobos and the Big Sur Coast.
I would say it's a toss up for photo opportunities north of SF and south of SF (Monterey, etc.)
- The southern route you could take Highway 1/101 all the way south, skirt around LA and then to Joshua Tree on the way out/home.
It's a giant loop with Yosemite being in the middle and the biggest detour so to speak. But of course hopefully the highlight of the trip. You'll be racking up miles and hours of driving, but if time isn't a concern (or money for gas!) they you should have a great trip!
Sorry, don't have any lodging info for the rest of that trip, but I'm sure you can find some since they're all near populated areas of course.
Let us know how the trip plans out.
Lon
Posted by Richard Wong on December 28, 2010 at 1:54 AM
If I had Yosemite as my #1 place to go, then the drive from San Luis Obispo to Monterey to San Francisco on PCH would be my #2. Everything else can wait til the next trip. Southern California would definitely be at the bottom of my priority list. (Coming from someone that lives there.)
Posted by Harley Goldman on December 28, 2010 at 11:22 AM
If time is no object, then I would say Death Valley would be a highlight. One could easily spend a week in Death Valley. If you are at DV, then the Alabama Hills are on your way anywhere west. If it is not too far out of your way, Joshua Tree is well worth a visit, but it is definitely out of the way with everything else you would want to do.
Getting to Yosemite is a long way from the Death Valley area. You either have to go south around to Mojave, then head north, or head up the eastern Sierra and and over, then back down. The gold country from the north, as Preston suggested would be a nice scenic route. If you come up from the south, you could stop in for a night or two at Sequoia NP and see the big trees in the snow. It is kind of on the way to Yosemite on that route.
The Yosemite valley will be the only thing open and accessible in winter, but plenty of nice walks and scenery to take in. It should be quite quiet and peaceful in winter.You can get a room at the Yosemite Lodge or get a heated cabin in Curry Village, depending on your budget.
Highway 1 up the Big Sur coast to SF is a great trip, as Richard mentioned. Check road conditions before heading out, as winter rains bring slides and road closures in that area. Plenty of motels along the way.
Harley
Posted by John W. Wall on December 28, 2010 at 6:43 PM
If you have a portable internet device, you can check current road conditions by putting the highway number into the search field here: http://www.dot.ca.gov/cgi-bin/roads.cgi
One of these days Google maps needs to combine the Caltrans info when you map out a route. Someone (else) is gonna make a million $$$ off that idea someday. ;)
Check here for DV conditions: http://www.dvnha.org/morning_report/Morning.pdf.
Posted by Roland Burkert on December 30, 2010 at 3:19 AM
Ditto Preston and Lon's comments!
But if you are in Big Sur, treat yourselves to a bottle of wine and the cheese and fruit sampler at Nepenthe, the view and serenty are worth every penny. Stay at the lodge at Santa Lucia! They offer cozy cabins, on a cliff, with a south facing view of Big Sur. It does not get any more romantic than that. From Santa Lucia, head inland, up and over the Santa Lucia mountains to Fort Hunter Liggit. The drive is on a steep, one lane paved road, easily passable by a two wheel dirve, and offers fantastic views. The ecosystems range from coastal tidepools (and whale watching), to grass covered hills, scrub oak forest, small redwood groves and then down to prestine oak woodlands at the fort. The fort even has an old mission. This is California landscape the way is was 200 years ago. The last time I was at Hunter Liggit, I saw a wild turtle swimming in a creek for the first time in my life! Other wildlife is also abundant.
South of Santa Lucia, Big Sur is not as impressive as the northern half. So taking this path east over the mountains, you really do not miss much, but you gain a section of California that I believe offers absolutly sublime scenerie. If you have time, swing from San Luis Obispo to Morro Bay, and go north to take in the Elephant Seals near Hurst Castle.
Enjoy!
Roland
Posted by Paul Dileanis on December 30, 2010 at 12:23 PM
I agree with Roland, Spend some time on the Big Sur Coast. The last time I had lunch at Nepenthe there were several California condors circling overhead. If you go to see the Elephant seals at Point Piedras Blancas I like the light at sunrise, but sunset can offer some challenging backlight. There are plenty of places to stay in nearby Cambria ( I recommend the Olallieberry Inn B&B, great breakfast).
Don't forget to visit the crown jewel of the California State Park system, Point Lobos. There is also a very photogenic mission in Carmel as well as whale watching in Monterey. Photographer David Gubernick, Rainbow Spirit Photography, has a good guide for the area around Garrapata Beach, but he has not added any more info for awhile.
Drive to San Francisco along the coast and you will find more Elephant Seals at Ano Nuevo (reservations may be required) and also the tallest lighthouse on the west coast at Pigeon Point. If you go to Pigeon Point visit Bean Hollow Beach a few miles north. There you will find interesting honeycomb (tafoni) weathered rocks.
Discussion
12 repliesWe want to do Yosemite for sure, then after that???
I'd very much appreciate suggestions for must see places, how long to stay and good lodging choices.
We'll be traveling from Colorado.
Thanks!
Paul makes some very good points. From Colorado, you have alternatives...
--Head south and hit Joshua Tree, north to Death Valley (DV), east to Lone Pine (Alabama Hills) and then north, up 395 and over the Sierra to the west side. You'd then go south to Yosemite, taking in some of the Gold Country along the way (Hwy 49). If you then want to hit the coast, you can go to either the north coast (Marin Headlands, Point Reyes, Point Arena, Mendocino) or head south to Big Sur. From experience, I will say this is pot load of driving. If it was me, I would skip Joshua Tree for another time, and head straight for DV and then to points east and north.
--If you decide to skip the East Side of the Sierra, head west, over I-80 or US-50 (Lake Tahoe), and then south to Yosemite. After Yosemite, you could boogie over to the coast.
You didn't mention if you are camping or motel-ing. If you are camping, there are lots of choices; same with hoteling. If you are camping, be prepared for snow/rain, wind and cold weather.
Our CA snowpack is nearly 200% of normal for this time of year! Therefore, some places that are normally open are in bad shape, or not accessible at all. You'll have to check road conditions and accessibility as you get closer to your trip. Be prepared to alter your plans. Be aware that chains must be carried in Yosemite during the winter, and could be required at any time. The NPS rangers will ticket you if you don't have them.
I hope this helps. If you need more specifics, we are here!
Have fun on your trip!
--P
You did not say how much time you have, so that makes it tough to make recommendations. If you have weeks, then definitely add J-Tree. If not, then I would skip it. Etc.
If you get a general itinerary, then we can throw out some accommodation suggestions. Will you be camping or motel/hoteling it?
Time is not a concern, so we can take as much as we need to make a good trip.
Thanks for the tips so far!! With the heavy snowfall, will there be travel limitations at Yosemite?
Short answer...Maybe. If you enter the park on HWY 140 via Merced and Mariposa, you should be OK since it is a lower elevation road. However, if the snow level is below 4000 feet, chains will likely be required. The other roads, HWY 120 and 41 top out at much higher elevations, and if there is a major dump, they might close them. HWY 140 is the safest bet.
The valley floor can be OK, or it can be an ice rink, especially on the shaded south side (South Side Drive). Just ask at the park entrance and they will give you the current conditions.
Time is not a concern, so we can take as much as we need to make a good trip.
I am not one who is usually envious...but now I am!
If you are thinking of heading through the Gold Country in the Sierra Foothills (HWY 49) give me a holler--I am in Columbia, so perhaps we can link up.
--P
Joshua Tree has plenty of motels in the general area and the park typically can be looked over in a couple days. Death Valley is another story, it's very large and can take a full week to poke around there. It's limited with moteling and reservations in advance are highly recommended. The most recent fire at the Stove Pipe Wells saloon & restaurant has placed it on the mending list so far as I know. That only leaves the Furnace Creek area for stay overs other then camping of course. You can always check on line about that location in the park. To the west from DVNP is Lone Pine and the adjacent Alabama Hills with Mt. Whitney as the main backdrop. Plenty of accommodations there. Heading north from there is usually pretty flexible on accommodations all along the 395 corridor. Once you get your ideas lined up it's always a good idea to run the Mapquest thing from point to point and print those out too.
I too was wondering how much time you had - sounds like it's rather open ended. Very cool!
You also mentioned Yosemite was a definite, so I'll start there with some lodging info. Of course, if you can get lodging in the Valley that would be preferred. I would recommend the Yosemite Lodge, then Curry Village. The Ahwhanee if money is no object... :-) for Yosemite lodging check here.
I highly recommend accessing Yosemite via Highway 140 out of Merced/Mariposa. It's the best access during the winter. Lodging in Mariposa is a possibility, but it's at least 45min from the valley. If you can't get lodging in the valley I would recommend the Yosemite View Lodge in El Portal or the Cedar Lodge. The YV lodge is just 2 miles or so from the Arch Rock entrance. And the Merced River Canyon is a photo destination all by itself. check here.
Weather in January is completely unpredictable as you might expect. By law you must carry chains while in the park. It's unlikely however that you will actually need them in the valley and traveling in via 140, but need to be prepared.
Time in the park depends on a number of things, but I would say a minimum of 3 days. If you've been to Yosemite before then you probably already have some ideas. If not, it also depends on what you like to do. If you like to hike and want to spend time exploring via snowshoes or x-country ski's (badger pass area) or are you content with the more accessible and iconic spots? 5 days would be ideal if you would like to spend more time in certain areas. And as I mentioned, I would highly recommend a day in the Merced River Canyon around El Portal and all the way back to Bryceburg. Lots of interesting rock/wall formations and the green moss will be very vibrant in January.
For the rest of the trip, I may suggest something like the following.
-Starting point Death Valley coming in from Las Vegas. At least 3 days there and if you just have a standard vehicle (not 4x4 or with good clearance,) stick to the main locations.
- 395 up the East Side, Alabama Hills, Mammoth area and then to Mono Lake. It's such a beautiful drive on 395, but be prepared for winter conditions.
- At least an overnight near Mono Lake, which would mean staying in Lee Vining. Not much to speak of there, but really your only choice for lodging.
- Continue north to Lake Tahoe. You can cut over the Sierra via 89>88 or 89>Tahoe>50 Take a drive around the lake - Emerald Bay is a popular location.
- From Tahoe I see a couple choices. 1. Head west towards San Francisco and head north - Point Reyes National Seashore and then north on Highway 1 to some Redwoods, and of course the rugged north coast. There is also the John Muir woods just north of SF and the GG Bridge OR 2. Head South and do Yosemite at this point, 3-5 days.
- If you do Yosemite here, then leaving there, head straight across the valley to hit the coast at Santa Cruz or Monterey. You've got Monterey, Pacific Grove (recommended, rugged coast line, easy access.) south to Carmel, Point Lobos and the Big Sur Coast.
I would say it's a toss up for photo opportunities north of SF and south of SF (Monterey, etc.)
- The southern route you could take Highway 1/101 all the way south, skirt around LA and then to Joshua Tree on the way out/home.
It's a giant loop with Yosemite being in the middle and the biggest detour so to speak. But of course hopefully the highlight of the trip. You'll be racking up miles and hours of driving, but if time isn't a concern (or money for gas!) they you should have a great trip!
Sorry, don't have any lodging info for the rest of that trip, but I'm sure you can find some since they're all near populated areas of course.
Let us know how the trip plans out.
Lon
Getting to Yosemite is a long way from the Death Valley area. You either have to go south around to Mojave, then head north, or head up the eastern Sierra and and over, then back down. The gold country from the north, as Preston suggested would be a nice scenic route. If you come up from the south, you could stop in for a night or two at Sequoia NP and see the big trees in the snow. It is kind of on the way to Yosemite on that route.
The Yosemite valley will be the only thing open and accessible in winter, but plenty of nice walks and scenery to take in. It should be quite quiet and peaceful in winter.You can get a room at the Yosemite Lodge or get a heated cabin in Curry Village, depending on your budget.
Highway 1 up the Big Sur coast to SF is a great trip, as Richard mentioned. Check road conditions before heading out, as winter rains bring slides and road closures in that area. Plenty of motels along the way.
Harley
One of these days Google maps needs to combine the Caltrans info when you map out a route. Someone (else) is gonna make a million $$$ off that idea someday. ;)
Check here for DV conditions: http://www.dvnha.org/morning_report/Morning.pdf.
But if you are in Big Sur, treat yourselves to a bottle of wine and the cheese and fruit sampler at Nepenthe, the view and serenty are worth every penny. Stay at the lodge at Santa Lucia! They offer cozy cabins, on a cliff, with a south facing view of Big Sur. It does not get any more romantic than that. From Santa Lucia, head inland, up and over the Santa Lucia mountains to Fort Hunter Liggit. The drive is on a steep, one lane paved road, easily passable by a two wheel dirve, and offers fantastic views. The ecosystems range from coastal tidepools (and whale watching), to grass covered hills, scrub oak forest, small redwood groves and then down to prestine oak woodlands at the fort. The fort even has an old mission. This is California landscape the way is was 200 years ago. The last time I was at Hunter Liggit, I saw a wild turtle swimming in a creek for the first time in my life! Other wildlife is also abundant.
South of Santa Lucia, Big Sur is not as impressive as the northern half. So taking this path east over the mountains, you really do not miss much, but you gain a section of California that I believe offers absolutly sublime scenerie. If you have time, swing from San Luis Obispo to Morro Bay, and go north to take in the Elephant Seals near Hurst Castle.
Enjoy!
Roland
Don't forget to visit the crown jewel of the California State Park system, Point Lobos. There is also a very photogenic mission in Carmel as well as whale watching in Monterey. Photographer David Gubernick, Rainbow Spirit Photography, has a good guide for the area around Garrapata Beach, but he has not added any more info for awhile.
Drive to San Francisco along the coast and you will find more Elephant Seals at Ano Nuevo (reservations may be required) and also the tallest lighthouse on the west coast at Pigeon Point. If you go to Pigeon Point visit Bean Hollow Beach a few miles north. There you will find interesting honeycomb (tafoni) weathered rocks.
Have a great trip. Paul