Posted by Bruce King on February 17, 2011 at 3:48 PM
I've been considering the practicality of doing my own printing and ran across the subject of refrigerating stored photo paper. I didn't find too much on the subject and wondered what anyone's thoughts on this might be.
Also, it seems clear to me that finding a reliable lab will certainly be less espensive than doing it myself, but not nearly as fun. It's like fly fishing and tying your own flies, it takes it to the next level.
How often might I need to print to avoid clogged heads with the Epson 3880 for example? One reviewer said once a month and another said once a week. Is it possible that the printer environment such as humidity, temp or dust could create this disparity?
I'm thinking it's something I want to do but definitely not rush into.
Anything else I should consider?
Thanks
If you are talking about true photographic papers, i.e. light-sensitive, you should store them in a cool and dry place. I would not refrigerate any paper because moisture will cause the paper to swell. I have Epson injet papers that I keep cool and dry and have never had a problem.
Making your own prints is certainly more fun. However, you have to have a well-defined workflow in order to prevent waste of time, paper, and ink.
I do my own printing on an Epson R-2400, up to 13x19. Here's my general workflow...
1. Make all adjustments to my 'master' file, and save
2. Duplicate the 'master' file, and save it under a new name, eg. 563-1-12x16.tif
3. Flatten the new file and delete any alpha channels, and save.
4. Resize the file to the dimensions I need. (For the 3880, use a resolution of 360 or 720 dpi)
5. Sharpen the image.
6. Soft Proof and make any adjustments needed.
7. Save this print file
8. Run a nozzle check and do a head clean, if necessary
9. Make a hard proof print on the paper of choice
10. If all is good, make a final print.
I generally run a quick print through my R2400 about once every two weeks. I always run a nozzle check before printing.
If you do not currently have papers, you might want to get sample packs from paper vendors. Be sure to download and install any needed profiles. Once you find a paper, or papers, that you really like, have a profiling service make custom profiles for you.
I hope this helps. If you have more questions, please holler.
--P
Posted by Bruce King on February 17, 2011 at 6:43 PM
Thanks Preston, there's a lot of good stuff there.
What do you mean by "flatten" the new file?
It sounds like I should be doing this to my files before taking them to a lab for printing. I haven't been and some of them come back OK and some do not. It's obvious on some that it's a calibration issue, but others the colors are fine but sharpness is not consistant.
What's a soft proof? Sounds like a test print. If so, and the soft proof looks good can it be my final print?
Obviously there is much to learn. I've searched Amazon for books on digital photo printing but wasn't too impressed with the offereings.
BTW, before I go for a printer I'll be upgrading my monitor and calibrating it.
What software are you using to adjust your images? I use Photoshop (Currently CS2) with it's capability to create adjustment layers and to accomplish soft proofing.
'Flattening' the image means merging all adjustment layers into a single layer called the 'Background'.
'Soft Proofing' uses your selected paper profile to simulate what the print will look like. Here's a tutorial on the subject of soft proofing. It's for CS2, but works for later versions of PS (with minor variations), as well: Soft Proofing] .
Here's nice site with lots of tutorials for PS, again they are for older versions, but still have good info. Pay particular attention to the articles that discuss color management. Tutorials.
--P
Posted by Bruce King on February 17, 2011 at 10:50 PM
I recently installed CS5 but I'm going through Anon's book "CS5 for Nature Photographers" and I'm still setting up the preferences. Geez, what a mammoth program. So, right now I'm still using PSE7 but I will be using CS5 when I start printing my own.
Discussion
4 repliesAlso, it seems clear to me that finding a reliable lab will certainly be less espensive than doing it myself, but not nearly as fun. It's like fly fishing and tying your own flies, it takes it to the next level.
How often might I need to print to avoid clogged heads with the Epson 3880 for example? One reviewer said once a month and another said once a week. Is it possible that the printer environment such as humidity, temp or dust could create this disparity?
I'm thinking it's something I want to do but definitely not rush into.
Anything else I should consider?
Thanks
If you are talking about true photographic papers, i.e. light-sensitive, you should store them in a cool and dry place. I would not refrigerate any paper because moisture will cause the paper to swell. I have Epson injet papers that I keep cool and dry and have never had a problem.
Making your own prints is certainly more fun. However, you have to have a well-defined workflow in order to prevent waste of time, paper, and ink.
I do my own printing on an Epson R-2400, up to 13x19. Here's my general workflow...
1. Make all adjustments to my 'master' file, and save
2. Duplicate the 'master' file, and save it under a new name, eg. 563-1-12x16.tif
3. Flatten the new file and delete any alpha channels, and save.
4. Resize the file to the dimensions I need. (For the 3880, use a resolution of 360 or 720 dpi)
5. Sharpen the image.
6. Soft Proof and make any adjustments needed.
7. Save this print file
8. Run a nozzle check and do a head clean, if necessary
9. Make a hard proof print on the paper of choice
10. If all is good, make a final print.
I generally run a quick print through my R2400 about once every two weeks. I always run a nozzle check before printing.
If you do not currently have papers, you might want to get sample packs from paper vendors. Be sure to download and install any needed profiles. Once you find a paper, or papers, that you really like, have a profiling service make custom profiles for you.
I hope this helps. If you have more questions, please holler.
--P
What do you mean by "flatten" the new file?
It sounds like I should be doing this to my files before taking them to a lab for printing. I haven't been and some of them come back OK and some do not. It's obvious on some that it's a calibration issue, but others the colors are fine but sharpness is not consistant.
What's a soft proof? Sounds like a test print. If so, and the soft proof looks good can it be my final print?
Obviously there is much to learn. I've searched Amazon for books on digital photo printing but wasn't too impressed with the offereings.
BTW, before I go for a printer I'll be upgrading my monitor and calibrating it.
What software are you using to adjust your images? I use Photoshop (Currently CS2) with it's capability to create adjustment layers and to accomplish soft proofing.
'Flattening' the image means merging all adjustment layers into a single layer called the 'Background'.
'Soft Proofing' uses your selected paper profile to simulate what the print will look like. Here's a tutorial on the subject of soft proofing. It's for CS2, but works for later versions of PS (with minor variations), as well: Soft Proofing] .
Here's nice site with lots of tutorials for PS, again they are for older versions, but still have good info. Pay particular attention to the articles that discuss color management. Tutorials.
--P