Posted by Paul Powers on August 30, 2011 at 6:30 PM
I am using a Canon 7D My two lens of choice are: 100-400mm , Macro 60mm. My question or conern is: When I down load into Lightroom 3 my images appear washed out. I can never really get my photos to get that real vibrant look. Is there a setting on the camera I should set? - Is it my monitor? (Macbook Pro) or is it Lightroom? It seems when I first down load into Lightroom for asecond it looks good than it jumps to a wash out look.
Thanks,
Paul
Posted by Phillip Noll on August 30, 2011 at 7:29 PM
Are you shooting raw? If so, when you download into LR the initial image you see is the jpg that was captured with the raw file (and it has adjustments already made to it in camera) and then LR creates a preview of the raw file. Raw files can look "washed out" because, well, they are raw! You then need to adjust color temp, curves, exposure, color, saturation, brightness, contrast, etc. in LR to "develop" or "post-process" your raw file. Tell us if you are shooting raw. Also, is your display calibrated? With a little more info we can probably help you sort this out.
Posted by Wick Smith on August 31, 2011 at 8:42 AM
Paul,
I normally shoot the 5Dii, and purchased a 7D to have more of a "wildlife" camera with faster shutter speed & more reach with the cropped sensor. I shoot raw in both cameras. The initial raw file from the 7d is very muted and flat as you describe in comparison to the 5Dii. It requires more work in ACR & Photoshop to get the colors to pop. Phil's advice is good - get your monitor calibrated to make sure you are seeing things accurately before you start adjusting.
How do other people's images look on your screen from other websites? Look wonderful and not washed out? Then, it is certainly not your monitor. If you can afford it, then you should color correct the monitor anyway. The issue is you are looking at RAW images.There is alot of "data" locked in those RAW images. Now you have to work to get it out!
If you don't know how to do this, set your camera to shoot RAW and JPG. You can look at the JPG and try to match it when working with the RAW. When you get real good at that, you may find you are making the image better than the JPG. If not, then shoot JPG and forget the RAW!!!
What kind of photography do you do? If you shoot TONS of images, you are going to have ALOT of facetime with your computer processing all those RAW files. JPG may be a better choice in that situation. There is nothing wrong shooting JPG's - many pros shoot only JPG. Besides, you can "process" your JPG's too (and alot faster in most cases unless you are a super RAW guru). If you shoot only a small number of images and want to tweak the absolute MOST out of your few images, then RAW is the way to go - you just have a learning curve to learn RAW processing.
Posted by Phillip Noll on August 31, 2011 at 5:56 PM
You may want to investigate Canon Picture Styles
Note, however, that the "Picture Styles" do not affect RAW images. They will affect the jpgs though.
Posted by Paul Powers on August 31, 2011 at 7:11 PM
Thanks everyone - I shoot raw and have not calibrated my computer - I am going to calibrate my computer and then shoot in both raw /jpgs or just jpgs to see how I like it
Posted by Paul Powers on September 1, 2011 at 7:53 AM
Any suggestions for a calibration softwatre for a MacBook Pro ?
Posted by David Bostedo on September 1, 2011 at 8:32 AM
I would also check out Adobe DNG Profiles for Lightroom. They will give you a starting point that is close to how your camera renders RAW files, and can give you a good starting point.
You could also make your own, and take a few files and get a good set of defaults set up. That way you have your own tweaked atarting point to work on your files from.
Posted by Michael Elenko on September 1, 2011 at 1:32 PM
Paul,
While I find the Macbook Pro monitor to be superior to most, It's challenging to calibrate any laptop monitor properly. The best method to calibrate a monitor is to use a hardware tool like a Spyder or ColorMunki that works with special software to develop an accurate profile. But these are fairly pricey, and again, with a laptop, the net gain is less than with an external monitor (which you can also consider purchasing).
There is a built-in calibration routine in the color tab on the Displays preference pane. That's free and better than nothing.
Supercal, http://www.bergdesign.com/supercal/, is a software only alternative that I used many years ago prior to purchasing a hardware solution. It's better than the above mentioned Apple approach, and is worth trying for free. If you like it, the $20 fee may save you grief.
I would also ensure that the room lighting you are using when evaluating your images on the laptop is not adversely impacting your view. Moderate and indirect works for me as well as ensuring that the fixture light bulbs are close to daylight accurate in temperature.
Discussion
9 repliesThanks,
Paul
I normally shoot the 5Dii, and purchased a 7D to have more of a "wildlife" camera with faster shutter speed & more reach with the cropped sensor. I shoot raw in both cameras. The initial raw file from the 7d is very muted and flat as you describe in comparison to the 5Dii. It requires more work in ACR & Photoshop to get the colors to pop. Phil's advice is good - get your monitor calibrated to make sure you are seeing things accurately before you start adjusting.
If you don't know how to do this, set your camera to shoot RAW and JPG. You can look at the JPG and try to match it when working with the RAW. When you get real good at that, you may find you are making the image better than the JPG. If not, then shoot JPG and forget the RAW!!!
What kind of photography do you do? If you shoot TONS of images, you are going to have ALOT of facetime with your computer processing all those RAW files. JPG may be a better choice in that situation. There is nothing wrong shooting JPG's - many pros shoot only JPG. Besides, you can "process" your JPG's too (and alot faster in most cases unless you are a super RAW guru). If you shoot only a small number of images and want to tweak the absolute MOST out of your few images, then RAW is the way to go - you just have a learning curve to learn RAW processing.
Troup Nightingale
Southeastern Photography
http://www.southeasternphotography.com
Picture Styles from Canon
Using Canon's Picture Styles article from one of the many photo tips sites
You could also make your own, and take a few files and get a good set of defaults set up. That way you have your own tweaked atarting point to work on your files from.
While I find the Macbook Pro monitor to be superior to most, It's challenging to calibrate any laptop monitor properly. The best method to calibrate a monitor is to use a hardware tool like a Spyder or ColorMunki that works with special software to develop an accurate profile. But these are fairly pricey, and again, with a laptop, the net gain is less than with an external monitor (which you can also consider purchasing).
There is a built-in calibration routine in the color tab on the Displays preference pane. That's free and better than nothing.
Supercal, http://www.bergdesign.com/supercal/, is a software only alternative that I used many years ago prior to purchasing a hardware solution. It's better than the above mentioned Apple approach, and is worth trying for free. If you like it, the $20 fee may save you grief.
I would also ensure that the room lighting you are using when evaluating your images on the laptop is not adversely impacting your view. Moderate and indirect works for me as well as ensuring that the fixture light bulbs are close to daylight accurate in temperature.
ME