Posted by Martin Ziese on April 30, 2006 at 1:08 PM
I am considering pruchasing a Ball Head for my tripod. I currently use a Bogen/Manfrotto 3265 pistol grip. It's a nice head for most nature shots, but lacks in the area of being able to supprot the weight of my 100-400mm IS mounted on my 20D when pointed down. The current grip tends to want to slip further down. Of course unless I hold on to the camera body or the lens. Also, this grip (3265) is not great for taking panoramic shots. So I have decided on a Ball Head. I am looking at replacing it with the Bogen/Manfrotto 488RC2 Midi Ball Head with Rapid Connect 2 System (Quick Release), because I already have a ton on the quick release plates. I read the specs and it will support the weight of my long lens and camera body... However it does'nt have a "tension" control.
My question is.... How important is the "tension" control feature? Is it really necessary for nature and scenic photography. When shooting birds on the fly, I tend to take the camera off the tripod and hand hold it... That's why I got the 100-400mm with IS in the first place.
From my experience I would not get that head. I owned it for two years. On a December trip to Bosque Del Apache the weather was very cold. The ball on the head actually cracked. I believe it was chipped during transport (I haven't the foggiest idea how this occured) and a day or two later the ball developed a split so the center post would rotate.
I have since purchaced a Markins Q10 and like it a lot. Yes you will have to buy new plates. However, they will fit any pro ball head with Arca style clamps. They also are MUCH lower profile than the Bogen as they are made for the specific camera or lens. This system will also allow you to uprgade to heavier equipment n the future without worry.
Posted by Bill Chambers on April 30, 2006 at 6:37 PM
I recently purchased a new ballhead. Before buying I looked at the Markins M10, Kirk BH-3, Really Right Stuff BH40, and the Acratech. The general impression I came away with was that all were very impressive - much more so than the Bogen 3047 head I was replacing. I decided to go with the RRS BH-40 because of the quick release mounting plate and I've been VERY happy with that decision. Not cheap, but none of them were, but at the same time, I probably will never have to replace it again, so it's pretty cheap over the long run. If you're looking to place really long lens on it I might consider going up a notch from the one's I mentioned, but my BH-40 has been rock solid for my needs.
Posted by Martin Ziese on April 30, 2006 at 7:09 PM
Bill and Ed,
Thank you for your recommendations... But the Ball Heads you suggested are way too much dough-nay-roe for me at this time. Ed, did you ever consider that maybe the Bogen you had was defective? I have had my Bogen pistol grip for well over 4 years and have never had a major problem with it.. with the exception of having a heavy lens mounted on it. Besides I realize that the pistol grip was never really intended for the setup I tend to use.
My original question was in regards to the "friction/tension" control features on some ball heads. Are they really necessary for a "nature/wildlife" and sometimes "scenic/panoramic" photographer? What are the bennies of having this feature incorporated into a ball head?
Martin, my suggestion is to bite the bullet and get a well-made head that will serve you for a decade or two. In the long run you may actually be saving money over buying cheaper heads and constantly upgrading/replacing.
I have a 10 year old Kirk ballhead (ancestor of the current BH1) that still works well. I recently replaced it with the Acratech Ultimate just to save weight and expect to get at least 10 years out of it too. That makes about 8 cents per day
Martin, my suggestion is to bite the bullet and get a well-made head that will serve you for a decade or two. In the long run you may actually be saving money over buying cheaper heads and constantly upgrading/replacing. >>>
Exactly! You can also purchase FLM heads (32 or higher). Make sure you get them with the QR plate that can be used with L bracket. I have used my 32 for LF, P67.
Martin,
re: your original question concerning friction/tension. I don't know if it's absolutely necessary or not - I guess that depends on the individual person. Personally, I wouldn't buy one without it. It has proven to be very useful IMO. You might check with Jerry Greer - I think he was considering selling his FLM 58 - don't know any of the details though.
Martin,
again, to answer your original question: the tension control really comes in handy when using heavier lenses; it prevents the lens from violently flopping over when you completely loosen the head, which, if it doesn't damage the lens can be, at the least, very embarassing
It's great when you're photographing wildlife and you want to keep things loose so as to be able to move the lens quickly, yet you don't want your equipment to do the flop when you let go.
With the tension control set correctly, you should be able to let go of your camera and it shouldn't move (too much) on its own, yet is still easy to move when you want move it.
As Bill mentioned, it's really up to the individual. I find the tension control to be invaluable, especially when moving from a light landscape lens like a 24mm to a heavier lens like the 80-200 f/2.8.
But heads with tension controls tend to be a bit more expensive....
Martin - I have the Bogen 488RC2 head, and it's worked great for me for a few years now. No, it's not Kirk, Acratech, etc, but it's a good head for the price. It has a "poor man's" tension adjustment: somewhere between totally loose and rock solid is a spot where I can move the camera as needed and have it stay still when I let go (and I'm shooting with a Nikon F4, not exactly a light camera!). Not the best, but it works. And the rotating base is great for panoramas. Again, not the best head, but possibly the best you can get for that price.
Much thanks for the suggestions... Because of my limited buget I have decided to go with the Bogen. 2/3s to 1/4 the price of the other mentioned ball heads. Maybe if I see some more of my newer work i can the justify a more expensive head... to me and the wife.. If I got one of the other's right now she'd shoot me and not with a camera
As I stated in the beginning I have been working with the Bogen Pistol grip and because of it's nature I am always careful how I leave the camera with a long lens set up on it. There is no way that I can lock it tight in pointing down position with a heavy lens on it. But at least with the Bogen ball head I can at least lock it tight without having to worry about it creeping down.
Again... much appreciated your comments and suggestions.
Discussion
11 repliesMy question is.... How important is the "tension" control feature? Is it really necessary for nature and scenic photography. When shooting birds on the fly, I tend to take the camera off the tripod and hand hold it... That's why I got the 100-400mm with IS in the first place.
Any comments are well received:
Martin
I have since purchaced a Markins Q10 and like it a lot. Yes you will have to buy new plates. However, they will fit any pro ball head with Arca style clamps. They also are MUCH lower profile than the Bogen as they are made for the specific camera or lens. This system will also allow you to uprgade to heavier equipment n the future without worry.
Thank you for your recommendations... But the Ball Heads you suggested are way too much dough-nay-roe for me at this time. Ed, did you ever consider that maybe the Bogen you had was defective? I have had my Bogen pistol grip for well over 4 years and have never had a major problem with it.. with the exception of having a heavy lens mounted on it. Besides I realize that the pistol grip was never really intended for the setup I tend to use.
My original question was in regards to the "friction/tension" control features on some ball heads. Are they really necessary for a "nature/wildlife" and sometimes "scenic/panoramic" photographer? What are the bennies of having this feature incorporated into a ball head?
Martin
I have a 10 year old Kirk ballhead (ancestor of the current BH1) that still works well. I recently replaced it with the Acratech Ultimate just to save weight and expect to get at least 10 years out of it too. That makes about 8 cents per day
Guy
Exactly! You can also purchase FLM heads (32 or higher). Make sure you get them with the QR plate that can be used with L bracket. I have used my 32 for LF, P67.
re: your original question concerning friction/tension. I don't know if it's absolutely necessary or not - I guess that depends on the individual person. Personally, I wouldn't buy one without it. It has proven to be very useful IMO. You might check with Jerry Greer - I think he was considering selling his FLM 58 - don't know any of the details though.
again, to answer your original question: the tension control really comes in handy when using heavier lenses; it prevents the lens from violently flopping over when you completely loosen the head, which, if it doesn't damage the lens can be, at the least, very embarassing
It's great when you're photographing wildlife and you want to keep things loose so as to be able to move the lens quickly, yet you don't want your equipment to do the flop when you let go.
With the tension control set correctly, you should be able to let go of your camera and it shouldn't move (too much) on its own, yet is still easy to move when you want move it.
As Bill mentioned, it's really up to the individual. I find the tension control to be invaluable, especially when moving from a light landscape lens like a 24mm to a heavier lens like the 80-200 f/2.8.
But heads with tension controls tend to be a bit more expensive....
Much thanks for the suggestions... Because of my limited buget I have decided to go with the Bogen. 2/3s to 1/4 the price of the other mentioned ball heads. Maybe if I see some more of my newer work i can the justify a more expensive head... to me and the wife.. If I got one of the other's right now she'd shoot me and not with a camera
As I stated in the beginning I have been working with the Bogen Pistol grip and because of it's nature I am always careful how I leave the camera with a long lens set up on it. There is no way that I can lock it tight in pointing down position with a heavy lens on it. But at least with the Bogen ball head I can at least lock it tight without having to worry about it creeping down.
Again... much appreciated your comments and suggestions.
Martin
Rene de Heer