I want to photo Eagles and camp somewhere around Haines Alaska.
I like to do things on my own and want to know if anyone on NPN
may have any helpful info. Wanting to know about spots to photo
the Eagles, best time to go, camping spots, transportation, places
to get food,and of course advise on camping around grizzlies.
Posted by Dan Roberts on October 3, 2012 at 1:47 PM
I can't provide much input on the camping aspect of things. Other than to say that there are a LOT of bears anywhere on the river where the birds are. That said, I was there last year and did see people camping along the river but mostly in big groups. If you are going to be alone there is a bit more risk regarding the bears. Theory is that with all the fish they have plenty to eat and won't bother you. But they don't read the rule book. Based on what I've seen there I would just show up with camping gear and figure it out.
In late October/ealy November there are birds all along the river as well as in a creek outside town near the ferry landing. The primary spots where most people view/photograph are about 15 miles out of town upriver along the highway. The road runs right along the river so access is pretty easy.
Finding the birds is not problem. It's more a matter of finding that perfect set of conditions for extraordianary shots. When the birds are on the river bank etc they can be a bit spooky so 500-600mm lens is needed. I shot a 400mm w/1.4x TC on a 1.5 crop factor body and still had mostly 50% cropped images to show for it. For bird on a stick shots they will land right over your head in the trees and don't seem to pay people much attention. While standing on the riverbank you will get dozens of flybys, some within a few yards but mostly out over the river a couple hundred feet away.
Rain gear is a must. That time of year there is a 95% chance of precipitation, probably 80% rain and 15% snow. In Alaska we don't count fog. Also a pair of chest waders is handy to have as there are several places where you can wada across the river.
I hear what you're saying about doing things on your own. I'm the same way. But it's not a bad idea to pair up with another photographer and hang out together. Between the wildlife and the river, it's easy to get in an uncomfortable situation. If someone else is around they can at least recover your gear so it doesn't go to waste
Regarding how to get there, you haven't said where you're coming from. Assuming the lower 48 or more populated portions of Canada, I'd recommend flying into Juneau, renting a car, and taking the ferry to Haines. The ferry is operated by the Alaska DOT as a "marine highway system". You can fly into Haines on a puddle jumper but it is highly weather dependent. You will definately want wheels in Haines and it is easier and cheaper to get them in Juneau.
Hi Jack! I had the privilege of being in Haines and area, then Kluane (Yukon) with my daughter last month. Jenaya had won two round-trip tickets to wherever one of the Canadian airlines fly, and because they don't fly to Anchorage or other Alaskan destinations, she chose Whitehorse with her sights set firmly on Haines for a few days. We rented a car in Whitehorse and drove to Skagway, then took the short ferry ride over to Haines the next day (note...I was a little surprised by the price of Alaska's "Marine Highway System"...not the least expensive ferry I've been on).
Because of some pre-existing work obligations, we weren't able to go to Haines during the peak of the salmon run in August, nor the prime-time for eagles later in the fall. However, it was far from a disappointment...we had been off the ferry for all of 15mins before we found our first brown bear, and we were shocked to watch a small pod of orcas surface in the background! Not something we normally see while photographing grizzlies near our home in the Canadian Rockies!
We managed to find a few bears still working the salmon that were coming up the Chilkoot River over the few days we were there, including the adorable orphan cubs Jenaya's been posting lately (see here for one of the Haines residents we got to know a little).
Anyway, I'm certainly not the right guy to advise you on the legendary eagle gatherings on the Chilkat, though Jenaya did manage a sweet early-fall image of one of the residents alongside the banks of the Chilkat here. There were dozens of eagles on the ChilkOOt "river" connecting Chilkoot lake with the inlet, but we could easily see how the Chilkat preserve would be a much better site for eagle pictures had we been able to time our trip differently. As Dan suggested, access did not seem like it would be a problem at all, and we took two side roads exploring the banks ourselves, but all the action in September was largely confined to the Chilkoot (just the timing of which salmon runs were in).
What I CAN help you with is the answers to a few of your other questions about places to get food and to eat. It took us a day, but we finally discovered an excellent coffee/sandwich shop called Mountain Market & Cafe. I'm not sure I should rely on my memory to give you the best directions so I'll leave you with their phone number: 907-766-3340. Great coffee and excellent breakfast burritos, sandwiches, etc. They also have some grocery items, though there is a larger grocery store "downtown" that should meet your needs better on that end. For a Canadian, the prices weren't at all shocking...I'm sure you might find them a little higher than what the going rate is in the lower 48.
For a dinner out, I have to recommend the duck confit at Halsingland Restaurant (attached to a decent but very "heritage" hotel...so not too many outlets for charging batteries, phones and tablets!). No, the price didn't reflect the fancy name or quality...I think it was only $14 or so but was a light meal I will remember for a long time...simply outstanding. I think the best restaurant we found for just a decent meal with good quality and great service at a reasonable price was the Lighthouse Restaurant just down the road from the high-speed passenger ferry (not the larger ferry you will come in on if you have a vehicle).
Hope that helps a little at least! There's really not a ton of options in town but the three above recommendations were far and away the best of the bunch we found.
We LOVED our time in Haines, and even enjoyed being tourists for (most of) a day in Skagway, and hope to take the rest of our family back soon. In fact, Jenaya's already asking if that would be a possiblity for her 16th Birthday, so that's gotta tell you something!
Thanks John, All good info.and i love the photo work of that daughter of yours , shes a very lucky girl. Next july i will be backpacking the skyline trail in Jasper and a few days on the trail around Mt Robson . Cant wait love the Canadian rockies. If i have any money left i am gonna try to get up to Haines next November.
Posted by Dan Roberts on October 8, 2012 at 4:16 PM
I spent eleven year in AK before I finally got down to shoot the eagles in Haines. After all, there are plenty of them elsewhere in the state. Or so I reasoned. But now that I've been, it will be an annual trip for a few years at least. Not just for the birds but for the overall opportunities for nature photography. Definately worth the "price of admission" relative to other photo centric trips I've taken.
Discussion
6 repliesI like to do things on my own and want to know if anyone on NPN
may have any helpful info. Wanting to know about spots to photo
the Eagles, best time to go, camping spots, transportation, places
to get food,and of course advise on camping around grizzlies.
In late October/ealy November there are birds all along the river as well as in a creek outside town near the ferry landing. The primary spots where most people view/photograph are about 15 miles out of town upriver along the highway. The road runs right along the river so access is pretty easy.
Finding the birds is not problem. It's more a matter of finding that perfect set of conditions for extraordianary shots. When the birds are on the river bank etc they can be a bit spooky so 500-600mm lens is needed. I shot a 400mm w/1.4x TC on a 1.5 crop factor body and still had mostly 50% cropped images to show for it. For bird on a stick shots they will land right over your head in the trees and don't seem to pay people much attention. While standing on the riverbank you will get dozens of flybys, some within a few yards but mostly out over the river a couple hundred feet away.
Rain gear is a must. That time of year there is a 95% chance of precipitation, probably 80% rain and 15% snow. In Alaska we don't count fog. Also a pair of chest waders is handy to have as there are several places where you can wada across the river.
I hear what you're saying about doing things on your own. I'm the same way. But it's not a bad idea to pair up with another photographer and hang out together. Between the wildlife and the river, it's easy to get in an uncomfortable situation. If someone else is around they can at least recover your gear so it doesn't go to waste
Regarding how to get there, you haven't said where you're coming from. Assuming the lower 48 or more populated portions of Canada, I'd recommend flying into Juneau, renting a car, and taking the ferry to Haines. The ferry is operated by the Alaska DOT as a "marine highway system". You can fly into Haines on a puddle jumper but it is highly weather dependent. You will definately want wheels in Haines and it is easier and cheaper to get them in Juneau.
Hope that helps.
Sandy
Because of some pre-existing work obligations, we weren't able to go to Haines during the peak of the salmon run in August, nor the prime-time for eagles later in the fall. However, it was far from a disappointment...we had been off the ferry for all of 15mins before we found our first brown bear, and we were shocked to watch a small pod of orcas surface in the background! Not something we normally see while photographing grizzlies near our home in the Canadian Rockies!
We managed to find a few bears still working the salmon that were coming up the Chilkoot River over the few days we were there, including the adorable orphan cubs Jenaya's been posting lately (see here for one of the Haines residents we got to know a little).
Anyway, I'm certainly not the right guy to advise you on the legendary eagle gatherings on the Chilkat, though Jenaya did manage a sweet early-fall image of one of the residents alongside the banks of the Chilkat here. There were dozens of eagles on the ChilkOOt "river" connecting Chilkoot lake with the inlet, but we could easily see how the Chilkat preserve would be a much better site for eagle pictures had we been able to time our trip differently. As Dan suggested, access did not seem like it would be a problem at all, and we took two side roads exploring the banks ourselves, but all the action in September was largely confined to the Chilkoot (just the timing of which salmon runs were in).
What I CAN help you with is the answers to a few of your other questions about places to get food and to eat. It took us a day, but we finally discovered an excellent coffee/sandwich shop called Mountain Market & Cafe. I'm not sure I should rely on my memory to give you the best directions so I'll leave you with their phone number: 907-766-3340. Great coffee and excellent breakfast burritos, sandwiches, etc. They also have some grocery items, though there is a larger grocery store "downtown" that should meet your needs better on that end. For a Canadian, the prices weren't at all shocking...I'm sure you might find them a little higher than what the going rate is in the lower 48.
For a dinner out, I have to recommend the duck confit at Halsingland Restaurant (attached to a decent but very "heritage" hotel...so not too many outlets for charging batteries, phones and tablets!). No, the price didn't reflect the fancy name or quality...I think it was only $14 or so but was a light meal I will remember for a long time...simply outstanding. I think the best restaurant we found for just a decent meal with good quality and great service at a reasonable price was the Lighthouse Restaurant just down the road from the high-speed passenger ferry (not the larger ferry you will come in on if you have a vehicle).
Hope that helps a little at least! There's really not a ton of options in town but the three above recommendations were far and away the best of the bunch we found.
We LOVED our time in Haines, and even enjoyed being tourists for (most of) a day in Skagway, and hope to take the rest of our family back soon. In fact, Jenaya's already asking if that would be a possiblity for her 16th Birthday, so that's gotta tell you something!
Enjoy your trip...I'm jealous!