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Big SW Trip- Woo Hoo!!! A few questions please.....

Discussion

22 replies
Posted by Brent Doerzman on May 17, 2006 at 12:22 AM
Hello All! Well, the time has finally come. My wife and I are making a nice big trip to the great state of Utah (and Arizona too :) ) We're going to head out this Saturday AM nice and early. We'll be gone for nine days, and plan on covering a LOT of ground in that time.

The plan looks something like this (this might take a few minutes, be sure you are sitting down): From Denver to Cathedral Valley in northern Capitol Reef NP, then over the mountains between Torrey and Boulder, one night somewhere between Boulder and Escalante, one night down the Hole in the Rock road, where we'll hike Peek-a-Boo and Spooky slot canyons, then past Escalante and down the Cottonwood Wash Road, possibly stopping at Kodachrome Basin SP and Grosvenor Arch. We'll camp on that road somewhere, then continue south into the Paria/Page area. Down there we're planning a long day hiking Wire Pass and Buckskin Gulch. Next day or so will be hitting at least lower Antelope Canyon, maybe upper too, we'll see. Horseshoe Bend might fit in too. From there, we leave Page and head up through Monument Valley (long enough to look like a tourist!) on the way to Hovenweep NP for a night. Then, if we have any money left from all that gas we just used, we might head down to the Bisti Badlands in NW New Mexico for a night, or possibly up to Moab, or maybe even head over to the Telluride area. Who knows! Whew! I'm tired just typing the places we plan on going! Of course, this "plan" could change at a moments notice depending on the weather. Most of the spots we want to go are on the roads that wouldn't be too great in the rain, so we'll just play it by ear most of the time.

So, now that you know our plan, I wanted to solicit some ideas from you all on places along that route that you would consider "must see" spots, favorite places to car camp, maybe a suggestion of a good, relatively cheap hotel in Page for that one shower of the trip! :) Even a campground with a shower would be fine. Or, just any info you might have would be great!

We've both been to Utah a bunch of times, but this trip will be mostly firsts for us. Neither one of us has been to the Page area at all, so we're really looking forward to all the cool stuff around there. We've done a lot of web searching, and have both of Laurent Martres Photographing the SW books, but I know there is a wealth of info on these forums. So, let's hear it!


Here are a few specific questions too, if you don’t mind, mostly pertaining to current conditions:


1. Has anyone made the river crossing of the Fremont River, heading up into the Cathedral Valley of Capitol Reef lately? I know we can avoid it by taking the Caineville Wash Road, but I would love to do the entire loop, since my wife hasn’t seen any of it yet. The rangers said last week it was running 15”-18” deep, with snow melt surges in the PM.

2. How about spots to camp along the Hole in the Rock Road? We’ve only driven down as far as Devils Garden, so don’t know what to expect further along. Have also heard there is no shade at the trail head for Spooky & Peek-a-Boo slots. Can we expect any shade down that way at all?

3. Any cool spots for camping down the Cottonwood Wash road?

4. We plan on going at least to Lower Antelope Canyon while in the Page area. At this time of year, what time of day is going to be best for detail photography? I suppose it shouldn’t be too hard to figure out, huh?  Sorry, just trying to get what info I can from the experienced ones around here.


OK, now that I’ve written and entire book, I should quite!  Thanks for any help, and I’ll of course let everyone know how the trip goes!!




:smile:
Posted by Rene Pirolt on May 17, 2006 at 12:59 AM
Brent - I can give you some good info for both Lower and Upper Antelope Canyon. This time of year I would hit BOTH canyons. Assuming that the weather is NOT overcast, and the sky is blue...

Go early into Lower Antelope - about 8:00am, to avoid direct light in the canyon. If you want to capture the light shaft through the arch, it appears between 10:00-10:30am. The folks at the entrance will be able to tell you the exact time. After the light shaft disappears, it will become too bright in Lower Antelope. And this happens to be the best time to hit Upper Antelope.

Best lighting conditions exist in Upper Antelope between 11:00 am to 1:00pm. That is also when the light shafts show up. In addition, you are limited to 2 hours in the Upper canyon, anyhow.

Oh....and to at least minimize the amount of tourists and photographers you encounter, go in the middle of the week. Expect to throw some elbows, though! :wink:
Posted by Paul Martin on May 17, 2006 at 1:55 AM
Brent,
I have made the crossing of the Fremont River, after a pretty big flood in fact. I have a Toyota Tacoma and I had no trouble getting across, the bottom seemed pretty rocky, I just kept it in 4HI and went slow. I have also camped along Hole-in-the-Rock and I didn't have much trouble finding a spot, there are plenty of spur roads. There does seem to be more camping in the beginning of the road, but I camped fairly close to the end. I actually saw people camped at the very end of the road in the parking lot. Pick up the Trails Illustrated Map for that are if you don't have another map already. As far as shade for Spooky and Peek-a-Boo, there is some at the bottom, mostly in the canyons, but you can find a little otherwise. The top is definitely sun baked, though. Sounds like a great trip, have fun :biggrin:
Posted by Hank Pennington on May 17, 2006 at 2:02 AM
Sounds like a great trip Brent. You're covering the southern part well.

If you do get up to Moab and decide to head for Telluride, here's are two MUST SEE's for your list:

Take Hwy 46 18 miles south of Moab at the LaSal Junction. When that crosses into Colorado it turns into Hwy 90. Not long before 90 breaks out into the Paradox Valley there's a side road (X7) diving off to the right and down to LaSal Creek. If it's not wet, you can follow that about three miles to an old copper mine that is being brought back into service. All along the way are some of the most brilliant rock formations around. Simply amazing colors and shapes.

Back on 90, pass through Bedrock, keep your eyes open for the River Road breaking off to the left about a mile and a half past the Dolores River bridge (look left as you cross the Dolores River bridge- we own the big bend with all the cottonwoods just east of the bridge and part way up the mesa on the right for a quarter mile or so.) The River Road follows the Dolores down to the confluence with the San Miguel, then up the San Miguel to join HWY 141 at Uravan. It's the hottest 16 miles of canyon photography I have ever experienced. You can then turn right on 141 and proceed to Telluride. You'll end up driving an extra ten miles or so on 141 while missing about 20 miles of 90.

The River Road is gravel and soil, narrow, and a favorite bypass for locals and cattle drives. Take it slow and pull well off the road when you stop, even if you don't see anyone at the moment. Though it's only 16 miles, my wife and I seldom manage the 32 mile roundtrip from Bedrock in less than 12 hours. There's that much to see, and so many good reasons to stop and unsling your camera.
Posted by Jim Talaric on May 17, 2006 at 9:03 AM
Brent,
Did a similar trip last week. Re Cathedral Valley, I did not do the loop last week but stopped in at the Capital Reef Visitor Center and asked about fording Fremont. They said no problem last week so am assuming even lower and easier to cross now.

Spent quite a bit of time on hikes around Escalante and Hole in Rock Road. Hiked out to Golden Cathedral. Conditions just perfect now, trees and plant life around canyon bottoms all leafed out, not too hot. Also, made my first hikes to Upper and Lower Calf creek Falls...beautiful!

Re shade at TH for Peek A Boo, correct, no shade. We camped at Egypt TH. No shade there either but not really that hot.

I go out to Southern Utah fairly often. If you need further info please feel free to call my cell 303 591-2232.

Jim
Posted by Brent Doerzman on May 17, 2006 at 10:07 AM
Excellent info so far folks, thanks!!! Keep it coming! :smile:
Posted by Tony Litschewski on May 17, 2006 at 10:43 AM
Brent,

We did almost the exact same loop a couple weeks ago. You'll really enjoy it! As for the hole in the rock road, I personally wouldn't waste time with spooky and peek-a-boo. They're neat but not what I'd call "power shots". If you're in that area, I'd highly recommend hiking Coyote Gulch from the bottom (crack in the wall). It is simply one of the best canyon hikes in Utah. You'll have several waterfalls and arches with some of the most incredible glowing walls you'll ever see. It's a full day hike though. On the way there, you can get a sunset shot at "sunset arch", camp overnight, and start hiking before sunrise to maximize time in the canyon. Everyone I've taken down there has simply been blown away.

As for Antelope, I'd spend the entire time in lower. WAAAYYYYY too many tourist in upper and you'll be lucky to get a shot. The best times are 10:00am (Denver time) for the arch shot until around 3:00pm for the "corkscrew" shot near the entrance. Throw sand into the air capture the beam coming through it. You need to shoot it right when the light starts coming through. If you wait too long, it will start hitting the rock around the arch and wash out. In between those times, I'd keep walking up and down the canyon as the light is constantly changing.

Best deal in Page is Motel 6. There is also a campground with showers ($4) near the intersection of hwy 89 and 98. Definetely shoot the horseshoe bend. Lighting will be best if it's overcast. It get's to "hot" in the scene when you have direct light.

Now that everyone knows about them, I'd also get out to the Wahweep hoodoos for a sunrise shot. Perfect time of year for this particular shot. You'll literally have about 2 minutes where the hoodoos are a golden color just when the sun peaks over the ridge. Get high enough on the hill so they are showing up against the back wall which will probably still be in the shade this month.

Oh, let me backtrack for a moment. Be sure to check out the reflection in the windows at the Fruita school house in Capital Reef. Incredible shot - thanks Chris E!!!!

If you need exact directions or want to know about some "lesser known" locations, call me directly.

Have a great trip!! :biggrin:
Posted by Doug Andrews on May 17, 2006 at 11:41 AM
I did the Fremont River crossing, but it was back in Oct. 98. No problems in a stock non-4WD SUV, but Spring may be a different story. Personally I found the Caineville Wash Road upto Cathedral Valley to be more photographically interesting. YMMV. Can't help ya with camping spots on the Hole-in-the-Rock Road and Cottonwood Canyon Road.

I found what I think is a good spot to car camp "nearby" the Wire Pass/Buckskin Gulch TH. If you continue west on Hwy 89 past the Cockscomb for a few miles, look for the turnoff on the right to the Paria Movie Set and Old Pahreah ghost town. Drive past the Paria Movie Set and the Pahreah cemetery and bear left heading upstream along the Paria River. The road will dead end shortly in a stand of Cottonwoods next to the Paria River. It looked like a fine place to car camp for the night.

Seeing as how Tony has mentioned the Wahweep Hoodoos, if you don't have the time or desire to make the 8 mile roundtrip hike (I think I was told its 8 miles) there is another Hoodoo area that while not as pecatacular as the Wahweep Hoodoos, can be productive. They are only a mile or so from Hwy 89. Shoot, if you know when to look and where, you can see them from the Hwy. I only just discovered them two weeks ago when I was in that area, so I'm not sure what time of the day is best for them, but being an easy hike it wouldn't take much to scout'em in advance. Heck, Tony probably knows about them as well.
Posted by Guy Tal on May 17, 2006 at 11:59 AM
1) Fremont River crossing at 15-18" should be OK in most high clearance vehicles. I've done it in my Tacoma several times. Just keep going and keep your foot on the gas if you're driving a stick-shift. Be very careful not to stall the engine or water may go into your tail pipe.

2) Write me off line for some camping info. on HITR

3) You can camp at the Hackberry Canyon trailhead (very nice hike by the way) but may need to register or pay a small fee.

4) Late morning is usually good. This will work well if you want to do Horseshoe Bend at sunrise, then grab some breakfast before going into the slots.

Guy
Posted by Guy Tal on May 17, 2006 at 12:04 PM
I'd highly recommend hiking Coyote Gulch from the bottom (crack in the wall). It is simply one of the best canyon hikes in Utah.


That's a great suggestion. The only thing to keep in mind is that coming back out of crack-in-the-wall up that huge sand dune is a major pain :smile:
You will also want to bring some length of rope to lower your packs over the crack if you decide to do that. Dragging them through the narrow opening can be an exercise in frustration.

Guy
Posted by Tony Litschewski on May 17, 2006 at 12:33 PM
Just a quick follow-up on the Wahweep hoodoos. You can actually drive to within a mile of them if you start on the Cottonwood wash road and take a right about 2 miles up. You'll then head east for about 12-14 miles until you hit the wash. I didn't see any signs there, but I don't believe they want you driving in the wash. It's only a mile hike from the gate at the wash.
Posted by Bill Bean on May 17, 2006 at 12:45 PM
Hey Brent. Sounds like a great trip and I'll e-mail you some thoughts. If you're a red meat eater then you have to hit the Dam Bar and Grill in Page and have the Big Dam Burger. Hottest food and coldest beer in Page. A word to the wise: if there is rainfall anywhere within 20 miles STAY OUT of Lower Antelope! I was there a few years ago 2 weeks before the party of 12 was washed away and I got out of the canyon about 20 minutes before it filled with water from a rainstorm.
Posted by Guy Tal on May 17, 2006 at 12:46 PM
Tony - there are signs there - they are these narrow brown "stakes" used by the BLM to designate wilderness study areas. They actually say the area is closed to vehicle (in a typeface not much larger than this). That is, unless the Kane County morons pulled them out.

Guy
Posted by Brent Doerzman on May 17, 2006 at 2:32 PM
Once again, excellent info folks! Much appreciated!! There will be a few personal e-mails going out later today or tonight.

Tony--- Coyote Gulch sounds great. Might be a bit much for this trip. This is one of those "family" trips (wife and I), so not one of my full on 24/7 photo trips, so have to find the balance. Luckily, my wife is a photographer too (she'll be shooting with her 5 or 6 Holga cameras exclusively on this trip). And the Wahweap hoodoos are definitely on the schedule. I've gotten some good info on those too. Thanks! Oh, if I get the chance tonight, I might give you a call!

Doug--- I did the Fremont crossing about that same year. Looked worse than it was. Luckily we'll have plenty high clearance this trip. Good info on the camp spot.. Camping near cottonwoods always sounds nice!!

Guy-- e-mail via NPN on the way, thanks!

Bill B-- mmmmmmm... burgers! :biggrin:

Darren--- Oh man, Cinnamon sounds perfect too. Will have to seriously consider that!!



Thanks again everyone!!! More, more!!! :jump:
Posted by Jason Woerly on May 17, 2006 at 2:41 PM
Brent - I did the Fremont river ford last Saturday in my stock height Land Cruiser with no problem. 15-18" depth sounds about right. Unfortunately I only went as far as the Lower South Desert Overlook, there just weren't enough hours in my trip. Have a great time!
Posted by Chris Ebright on May 17, 2006 at 3:05 PM
Brent,
I really don't have much to offer beyond what everybody else has said here, except that if you are wanting to balance some fun hikes with the photography, then peek a boo and spooky are good ones to hit. And I would even recommend leaving the big gear behind because spooky is quite narrow and would be a pain with a big pack. after having gone through a couple slots last month with my huge pack on, i realized i didn't have that much fun, whereas in the past i had a blast when i only have a small pack on. other than that, have a great trip!
Chris
Posted by Roger Rouch on May 17, 2006 at 3:53 PM
Brent, I work in an industrial environment, so get safety beat into my head When i was in southern Utah two weeks ago the Natural Bridges campground was closed with suspicions of plague and multiple dead animals in the area. (The hiking trails were still open). The Natural Bridges ranger told me that there had been some general concerns about this for the entire four corners area and there were a few warning signs posted around here and there in a few of the near-by recreation areas. Unless you play with dead rodents, it's probably not a big concern, but something to be aware of. Might be just a slightly bigger of a deal if you have pets that you are taking a long. So there's a little safety tip. I didn't worry about it too much when I was through, but was a good thing to know.

Your trip itinerary sounds great! Made me drool enough to wish I could go again.

Posted by Adam Schallau on May 17, 2006 at 4:20 PM
Here is an article on CNN regarding the plague at Natural Bridges NM and Mesa Verde NP.
Posted by Stacy Egan on May 17, 2006 at 7:49 PM
Sounds like a great trip. Regarding Horseshoe Bend, I had trouble photographing it in late afternoon because the bottom is in shadow and you're shooting into the setting sun. Haze in the air made the situation worse. So I decided to forgo a Soap Creek hike with my husband the next morning (I dropped him off at the trailhead so he could hike it alone) so I could return to try and photograph Horsehoe Bend and I was much happier with the AM light. One thing...my 17-40 on my 20D was not wide enough to encompass the entire "horseshoe".

Stacy Egan
Tucson, Arizona
Posted by Jim Talaric on May 17, 2006 at 8:00 PM
Brent,
Am not trying to hijack your thread but I have a related question of Guy and Tony. Spent several days hiking off the Hole in Rock road last week. Was going to go into Coyote via Crack in the Wall. Wound up going to Golden Cathedral. How does the hike into Coyote compare to the hike to Golden Cathedral from Egypt TH or to the Subway for that matter?

Jim
Posted by Brent Doerzman on May 17, 2006 at 9:16 PM
Thanks again everyone!

Jason--- thanks for the info. My wife e-mailed the rangers in Capitol Reef, and they said this AM it was running at about a foot deep, no problem for a high clearance 2WD even. Good to hear.

Chris--- Good advice on shooting in Spooky, etc. We are definitely trying to balance photo and hiking, so those might just be for the adventure of it. Of course, I'll always have my point and shoot digital for those kinds of hikes!! :biggrin:

Roger & Adam-- very good to know about that! No pets along this time, and we'll keep the playing with dead rodents to a minimum! :wink: :biggrin:

Stacy--- cool. I think we'll at least check it out, but sadly with my 4x5, the widest I can go is 90mm (approx. 24mm equivalent in 35mm). Of course I guess I could shoot a few sheets and stitch later! :biggrin:

Jim--- no problem the more good info the better!!
Posted by Guy Tal on May 17, 2006 at 9:32 PM
Jim,

You're brave to have hiked out to the Golden Cathedral this time of year. The Escalante is running pretty high (as I'm sure you know by now). The hike down into Coyote is fairly easy (you're going down a trail of soft sand to the confluence of Coyote and the Escalante). Going up that trail can be a bit arduous with a heavy pack but there's nothing technically challenging about it.
Once in Coyote, you can spend quite a bit of time in there. It's an amazing place - great riparian scenery with steep walls, waterfalls, arches, and of course the huge natural bridge. In fact my preference would be to set up base came a little upstream from the confluence and explore for a full day with a ligher pack, returning to camp in the evening and hiking out the next day.
The hike from the trailhead (on 40-Mile Ridge) to Crack in the Wall is abotu an hour of fairly easy hiking on slickrock. Parts of it are sandy. The challenge there is finding the trail since there's no markings on the slickrock and cairns are often far between.

Guy
Posted by Brent Doerzman on May 19, 2006 at 5:48 PM
Thank you all so much again!! Very, very appreciated! We're almost all packed up and ready to head out quite early tomorrow AM. Can't wait! I promise to give a full report, and show off WAY too many images when I get back! :biggrin:

Take care!!!